So... if I use the 200w3ohm 36v amp, with the Eminence speakers at 250w8ohm, because 8ohm, I should be able to get 75w with a 24v3A power supply? Though in reality probably never go half that high.
Upside, if that's the case, price drops about $50 between the speaker and power supply combined.
200w3ohm36v Amp
EMINENCE BETA-12CX - 250W 8OHM Speaker
24v 3.2A 77w power supply
Preamp 12-35v 0.6A
May need a PSU with more Amps if that online calc is accurate, I'd need 3A for the speaker, 0.6A for the preamp.
Do the watts on the psu have to match closely to the expected speaker output in watts? So if expecting about 75w output to the speaker, I need a 75w PSU?
Upside, if that's the case, price drops about $50 between the speaker and power supply combined.
200w3ohm36v Amp
EMINENCE BETA-12CX - 250W 8OHM Speaker
24v 3.2A 77w power supply
Preamp 12-35v 0.6A
May need a PSU with more Amps if that online calc is accurate, I'd need 3A for the speaker, 0.6A for the preamp.
Do the watts on the psu have to match closely to the expected speaker output in watts? So if expecting about 75w output to the speaker, I need a 75w PSU?
No, about 30 watts RMS at the onset of clipping (give or take 10%) with an 8 ohm speaker and 24V power supply. Look back at the spreadsheet I posted earlier.
Let me repeat: maximum output power is determined entirely by the supply voltage, and speaker impedance.
Let me put that another way: You cannot get more than about 30 watts RMS out of any of these class-D boards, if you're using an 8 ohm speaker and 24V DC power supply.
It doesn't matter what amplifier you use, as long as it's a bridged output topology, and doesn't shut down or burn up. (Every one of the amps you're looking at is indeed a bridged output amp.)
Useful Thing To Know (TM): an amplifier can put out nearly twice as much power when it is clipped really hard. So if you get 30 watts clean, the amp will be able to put out something in the rough ballpark of 60 watts if pushed into brutally hard clipping.
I will eat every hat I own (and then all my wife's hats as well) if that preamp draws 0.6 ampere. That is a huge mistake in the ad copy for that preamp - actual current draw for a little opamp like this will be no more than a few milliamps. (Perhaps it is 6 mA, which would be 0.006 ampere?)
Kinda-sorta. No amplifier is 100% efficient - to spit out 75 watts RMS, the amp will draw something more than 75 watts from the power supply, and burn up the difference as heat.
Class D amplifiers like this one are very efficient, in the 85% to 90% range, so the amount of power wasted is relatively small.
However: I recommend oversizing your power supply a bit, its rarely a good idea to run things right on the ragged edge of their maximum specifications.
Unless I'm missing something, you're still stuck at about 30 watts RMS output power with your 24V power supply and 8 ohm speaker, rising to maybe 60 watts of horribly distorted (100% THD) square wave if overdriven to fuzz-box levels of awfulness. It wouldn't hurt for the power supply to be able to cope with the 60W demands, even though you should never turn the amplifier up to that point.
-Gnobuddy
First off, I thought we were trying to keep the Class D amps out of clipping even if we are using clipping diodes. Gnobuddy is right about the speaker impedance and the power supply voltage. If you look up the datasheets of these amplifiers, see page 10, top graphs are 8 ohms and 4 ohms showing the power output as compared to power supply voltage.
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3118d2.pdf
And all the manufacturers have the same type of output devices and make roughly the same power as each other given the voltage. They all try to squeeze as much power as they can from their devices so they are all using the same tricks.
Always doesn't hurt to speck a PS for a little extra. Who knows if the maker is being 100% honest (especially no name products sold cheap from China).
http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3118d2.pdf
And all the manufacturers have the same type of output devices and make roughly the same power as each other given the voltage. They all try to squeeze as much power as they can from their devices so they are all using the same tricks.
Always doesn't hurt to speck a PS for a little extra. Who knows if the maker is being 100% honest (especially no name products sold cheap from China).
So... Ohms of the amp have no real affect on wattage?
I found those two online calculators and was using them, which is where I came up with the numbers.
So for the first one, I put on 200w 3ohm because the amp was 3ohm not 2ohm like the other ones I looked at.
Which says with an 8ohm speaker, max is 75w. So I put in 75w and 8ohm into the 2nd calculator, which came up with the needed volts and amps.
I figured the amp now being shown at 3ohm not 2ohm would change some stuff around...? Like if it were 2ohm, speaker 8ohm, so 4x larger 1/4 output? so 3ohm to 8ohm is 2.7x larger... etc...
Pre-amp... says working current 600mA, which I think is 0.6A. Though no idea if a typo or not... was the amp linked to a few pages back.
So... if doesn't matter if a 2ohm or 3ohm amp, 60w or 200w... it's all voltage, what's the advantage of paying more money for a 200w3ohm versus the 60w2ohm amp?
I swear I'm not stupid.
I think half my issue right now is that apparently online specs (and possibly calculators?) are bogus and throws things off trying to figure this stuff out.
I found those two online calculators and was using them, which is where I came up with the numbers.
So for the first one, I put on 200w 3ohm because the amp was 3ohm not 2ohm like the other ones I looked at.
Which says with an 8ohm speaker, max is 75w. So I put in 75w and 8ohm into the 2nd calculator, which came up with the needed volts and amps.
I figured the amp now being shown at 3ohm not 2ohm would change some stuff around...? Like if it were 2ohm, speaker 8ohm, so 4x larger 1/4 output? so 3ohm to 8ohm is 2.7x larger... etc...
Pre-amp... says working current 600mA, which I think is 0.6A. Though no idea if a typo or not... was the amp linked to a few pages back.
So... if doesn't matter if a 2ohm or 3ohm amp, 60w or 200w... it's all voltage, what's the advantage of paying more money for a 200w3ohm versus the 60w2ohm amp?
For which specs? I know more amps doesn't hurt, and extra watts... for computers anyways... but I shouldn't exceed the voltage should I? Like if the amp says 36v max, I shouldn't grab a 42v PSU or it'll sizzle, correct?
I swear I'm not stupid.
I think half my issue right now is that apparently online specs (and possibly calculators?) are bogus and throws things off trying to figure this stuff out.
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Correct...sorta! A 100 W amp can put out 100 watts under the right circumstances (speaker impedance and power supply voltage). But it won't always put out 100 watts. It will only put out 30 watts if you use an 8 ohm speaker and 24V DC power supply.
Exactly the same thing applies to a 500 W amp - it can put out 500 W under the right conditions. But 24V DC and 8 ohms are NOT those conditions: you will only get 30 watts if you use those values.
Meantime, a 15 W amp can put out a maximum of 15 watts before it fries (or shuts down to save its own bacon.) If you connect an 8 ohm speaker and 24V DC power supply, it will try to put out 30 watts - but it doesn't have the oomph, so it will fry, or shut down.
The problem here is that there is a difference between AC voltage (which is what goes to the speaker), and DC voltage (which is what powers the amp.)Which says with an 8ohm speaker, max is 75w. So I put in 75w and 8ohm into the 2nd calculator, which came up with the needed volts and amps.
The 24.5 volts that the online calculator comes up with is RMS AC volts. This is absolutely correct - you will indeed get 75 watts RMS into an 8 ohm speaker if you apply 24.5 volts RMS AC across it.
The trouble is that 24.5 volts RMS AC is the same thing as 34.65 volts AC peak (RMS and peak are different things.)
And the power supply puts out still a third thing: DC volts, not AC at all, neither RMS nor peak AC.
However, for this type of bridge-mode power amplifier, you can rather easily estimate the DC power supply voltage you need: add 3 volts to the peak speaker voltage and you will be close.
In your example, you started with 25.5 V RMS AC at the speaker. I converted that into 34.65 volts peak AC at the speaker. To find the required DC power supply voltage, add three. You are now at 37.65 V, and that is about the DC power supply voltage you need to get 75 watts RMS into an 8 ohm load from a bridge-mode amplifier.
Clear as mud?
In practice you would round that up or down a little bit in order to use what is actually available. I've seen a few 36 V switching power supplies, but all the ones I found were quite expensive (way more expensive than 24 V and 48 V ones.)
Your math is fine. The ad copy is tragically wrong. As previously mentioned, I will eat every hat in my home if that preamp actually draws 600 mA. (And as printer2 pointed out, sometimes very odd things show up in those ads for Chinese products!)
If you hook up an 8 ohm speaker and 24 V DC power supply, there is no advantage whatsoever.
If you are willing to hook up the specified 3 ohm speaker and matching power supply voltage, the 200 W @ 3 ohm amp will, indeed, deliver 200 watts. Try the same speaker and power supply with the 60 W amp, and it will give you an injured look before either going up in flames, or shutting down.
You're absolutely right, and I was unclear. Yes, oversize the amp rating (which automatically oversizes the watt rating as well.) Do not oversize the voltage rating.
I have no doubt of that at all - what you're missing is some knowledge about DC electricity, AC electricity, and how audio power amps actually work. Without those things, you're kinda shooting in the dark. It doesn't help that the ad copy for most of these products only adds to the confusion. (Fortunately, we've got your back!)I swear I'm not stupid.
If you read chapters 1 & 2 of this lovely free electronics textbook, it will give you some necessary background on DC electricity: Lessons In Electric Circuits -- Volume I (DC) - Table of Contents
And this will give you a few basics on AC electricity: Lessons In Electric Circuits -- Volume II (AC) - Chapter 1
There will still be a good chunk of important information missing - how transformerless output stages work, what bridge mode is, et cetera. But at least you'll have some background that will make it easer to understand the rest eventually.
-Gnobuddy
You want the Beta 12 LTA. The 12CX needs a compression driver and a crossover, which is more work. The LTA has a whizzer cone to produce the high frequencies from a single driver.
Chris
@GNOBuddy
I'll give that a read this weekend after I help my niece move and I crack open a beer or three.
So... basically...
- Get an amp with more watts than you want to produce to keep the amp from blowing.
- Get an amp with more watts than you want to also reduce clipping as much.
- Get speakers with the same or higher ohms so there's enough resistance to keep the amp/speaker from blowing.
- Speaker power/watts come from the volts used from the PSU.
So... if I get a 225w8ohm speaker like the Beta 12-LTA, I could get the Mean Well LRS-150-36 PSU, 36v 4.3A 155w... because 36v is easier to find and cheaper than the 32/34v range ones. also rather a name brand than no-name China eBay. I'd get an estimated 68w from the 8ohm speaker. Could go laptop PSU, those seem to commonly have 32v/34v available... not sure how they compare to the metal box ones I've been looking at.
I'd rather stay a bit lower but wow... DigiKey, if I search PSU's, the cheapest 32-34v with 3A or more, is $85CAD vs about $30 for the 36v.
To get an amp that will handle a 36v PSU, with a bit of headroom... probably looking at something like
IRS2092S 500W Mono Channel Digital Class D HIFI Power Amp Amplifier Board W/ FAN | eBay
Built to handle 500w, so probably built to handle a bigger PSU. So far the 500w ones I'm seeing don't show specs the same as I've been seeing on the smaller amps. Instead of saying max 36v PSU, they show as
So... 65v PSU? or 32.5v PSU? I think I saw (in passing) somewhere if it says ± you half it?
Though, if I go 36v PSU, it exceeds the pre-amp power, 12-35v. Which is a question I had as well... how to power the preamp? I see some PSU's with dual outputs, but the price jumps way up way fast. Else I could get a 36/24v PSU and make life simpler.
I have seen a few pre-amps with a volume control, or a vol/tone/bass... but sparse on the details/specs.
Amplifier Passive Tone Board Preamplifier Volume Control Sound Adjustable Module | eBay
Also, some tube preamps... not sure if that would be an advantage or disadvantage sound wise in a modelling amp, but if using for music outside, may not be a bad thing? Though again, sparse specs listed and says something about 200v PSU, which is well, a bit bigger than 36v.
This one looked kinda neat... doesn't say what it is, but given how it looks and chip... Class AB? also has power supply listed funny, DC double 40-45V?
TDA7293 Three Parallel 300W Mono Power Amplifier Module Board BTL AMP DIY Kits | eBay
Needs a heatsink, but I can get those free... small the size of an eraser, or as big as your hand. Had a few dinner plate size ones come in even so, cooling should be fine.
I'll give that a read this weekend after I help my niece move and I crack open a beer or three.
So... basically...
- Get an amp with more watts than you want to produce to keep the amp from blowing.
- Get an amp with more watts than you want to also reduce clipping as much.
- Get speakers with the same or higher ohms so there's enough resistance to keep the amp/speaker from blowing.
- Speaker power/watts come from the volts used from the PSU.
So... if I get a 225w8ohm speaker like the Beta 12-LTA, I could get the Mean Well LRS-150-36 PSU, 36v 4.3A 155w... because 36v is easier to find and cheaper than the 32/34v range ones. also rather a name brand than no-name China eBay. I'd get an estimated 68w from the 8ohm speaker. Could go laptop PSU, those seem to commonly have 32v/34v available... not sure how they compare to the metal box ones I've been looking at.
I'd rather stay a bit lower but wow... DigiKey, if I search PSU's, the cheapest 32-34v with 3A or more, is $85CAD vs about $30 for the 36v.
To get an amp that will handle a 36v PSU, with a bit of headroom... probably looking at something like
IRS2092S 500W Mono Channel Digital Class D HIFI Power Amp Amplifier Board W/ FAN | eBay
Built to handle 500w, so probably built to handle a bigger PSU. So far the 500w ones I'm seeing don't show specs the same as I've been seeing on the smaller amps. Instead of saying max 36v PSU, they show as
So... 65v PSU? or 32.5v PSU? I think I saw (in passing) somewhere if it says ± you half it?
Though, if I go 36v PSU, it exceeds the pre-amp power, 12-35v. Which is a question I had as well... how to power the preamp? I see some PSU's with dual outputs, but the price jumps way up way fast. Else I could get a 36/24v PSU and make life simpler.
I have seen a few pre-amps with a volume control, or a vol/tone/bass... but sparse on the details/specs.
Amplifier Passive Tone Board Preamplifier Volume Control Sound Adjustable Module | eBay
Also, some tube preamps... not sure if that would be an advantage or disadvantage sound wise in a modelling amp, but if using for music outside, may not be a bad thing? Though again, sparse specs listed and says something about 200v PSU, which is well, a bit bigger than 36v.
This one looked kinda neat... doesn't say what it is, but given how it looks and chip... Class AB? also has power supply listed funny, DC double 40-45V?
TDA7293 Three Parallel 300W Mono Power Amplifier Module Board BTL AMP DIY Kits | eBay
Needs a heatsink, but I can get those free... small the size of an eraser, or as big as your hand. Had a few dinner plate size ones come in even so, cooling should be fine.
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Does it matter if the amp says bass?
So, does that mean that there's something there to filter out the highs?
WONDOM 1x 300W Class D Audio Amplifier Board Mono- TAS5613 Subwoofer AA-AB31191 | eBay
I think this amp seems to fit the specs for me wanting around 50w of good quality sound (not distorted or clipped) from the 225w8ohm speaker. However, the subwoofer being mentioned in the title leads me to think that it has some crossover/filtering.
So, does that mean that there's something there to filter out the highs?
WONDOM 1x 300W Class D Audio Amplifier Board Mono- TAS5613 Subwoofer AA-AB31191 | eBay
So... 58.25W@8ohm 36V? or... from your chart 68w but I guess that's the 'pushing it' number with clipping?
I think this amp seems to fit the specs for me wanting around 50w of good quality sound (not distorted or clipped) from the 225w8ohm speaker. However, the subwoofer being mentioned in the title leads me to think that it has some crossover/filtering.
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If specs are right... I think this will work. Price is right, 20Hz-20kHz so should be full range not bass only. Handles a big PSU. Probably recap just to avoid cheap caps blowing, and takes 10min to do, probably $2 worth of caps. Has a fan for cooling, which is good, if doesn't feedback into the audio and adds noise.
Am I finally on the right track?
IRS2092S 500W Mono Channel Digital Amplifier Class D HIFI Power Amp Board + FAN | eBay
As for a PSU, get something 32-36V with around 3A?
Would you recommend a laptop PSU over the box ones? Box ones seem like they'd be more reliable if a name brand.
Am I finally on the right track?
IRS2092S 500W Mono Channel Digital Amplifier Class D HIFI Power Amp Board + FAN | eBay
As for a PSU, get something 32-36V with around 3A?
Would you recommend a laptop PSU over the box ones? Box ones seem like they'd be more reliable if a name brand.
You're not going to like this...this is the first class D board I have seen that does NOT operate in bridge mode.
Because it does not operate in bridge mode, it requires twice the power supply voltage to deliver the same output power. Not only that, it requires a dual rail power supply: a positive voltage, a negative voltage, and zero volts. That's why there is a +/- in the specifications (and also the words: "1. Power supply: dual DC power supply ± 58 --- ± 70V")
So this particular board brings with it yet another headache - you need to find a dual rail power supply that puts out symmetrical positive and negative voltages.
To deliver roughly 50 W RMS, my estimate is that you need about +/- 32 volts, i.e., a dual rail power supply putting out +32V, -32V, and zero volts.
And now we see yet another problem: the specifications for this board say the power supply should be between +/- 58V, and +/- 70 V. It seems +/- 32V is far below the minimum specified voltage, which means the board may not even work at all at this lower voltage.
I don't think this board is right for you...
The laptop PSU looks nicer, is fully insulated, and designed to be out in the open. The other kind (open chassis) is not safe to have exposed to the user - you have to make sure people are protected from the possibility of touching any dangerous voltages, or any parts that get hot enough to burn.
-Gnobuddy
.... so, if it was bridged... I'd be on the right track?
So if it has the +/- then not bridged and avoid.
It's really a 2 steps forward, 1 step back with this project.
PSU wise... I was going to make the cab with the box PSU inside. The top/sides of it are that metal mesh type deal so, probably would have mounted verticle so the top faces the back, and had it cut open in the back of the cab so it sat with the top flush. That way it doesn't stick out, ample air flow for cooling. Then inside a small wood bracket to prevent fingers from hitting any exposed terminals.
I was thinking in terms of a good consistent supply of power. I remember a while back when working on the arcade cabinet, was mentions of consistency, 'clean', efficiency, and stuff about rails and what not.
Kinda one of those "if it's half the size is it half as good" debates.
I do recall on the forum (this one actually) it was mentioned to get a quality laptop PSU even used, from a company like IBM, DELL, Sony, etc... because the OEM ones are probably better quality than the generic eBay counterparts.
I'm fine with the box if it's a better supply... be nice to have tubes as well... I'd find a way to let people the see the tubes if I used those for a pre-amp. Just curious too because seems I can get a much larger PSU for half the price buying a laptop PSU. Not to complain, more power less money... but gotta be some sorta trade-off....
So if it has the +/- then not bridged and avoid.
It's really a 2 steps forward, 1 step back with this project.
PSU wise... I was going to make the cab with the box PSU inside. The top/sides of it are that metal mesh type deal so, probably would have mounted verticle so the top faces the back, and had it cut open in the back of the cab so it sat with the top flush. That way it doesn't stick out, ample air flow for cooling. Then inside a small wood bracket to prevent fingers from hitting any exposed terminals.
I was thinking in terms of a good consistent supply of power. I remember a while back when working on the arcade cabinet, was mentions of consistency, 'clean', efficiency, and stuff about rails and what not.
Kinda one of those "if it's half the size is it half as good" debates.
I do recall on the forum (this one actually) it was mentioned to get a quality laptop PSU even used, from a company like IBM, DELL, Sony, etc... because the OEM ones are probably better quality than the generic eBay counterparts.
I'm fine with the box if it's a better supply... be nice to have tubes as well... I'd find a way to let people the see the tubes if I used those for a pre-amp.
Just curious too because seems I can get a much larger PSU for half the price buying a laptop PSU. Not to complain, more power less money... but gotta be some sorta trade-off....
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Seems like once I hit past 200w... the amps switch to +/- and specs as 3ohm instead of 2ohm which is weird. Figured be a bit more consistent and standard. Same as that AB amp I liked to before that says "Input Voltage: DC double 40-45V".
Which kinda floats us back to that 200w amp from before
WONDOM 1X 200W Class D Audio Amplifier Board - T-AMP Module Mono Amp | eBay
This says max 50v... not seeing the +/- but then the price is jumping up again.
WONDOM 1X 500W Class D Audio Amplifier Board Compact T-AMP Mono Subwoofer | eBay
Wondering for the fan powered ones if can run the power for the pre-amp off the same output/terminal, just soldered to the back side.
Which kinda floats us back to that 200w amp from before
WONDOM 1X 200W Class D Audio Amplifier Board - T-AMP Module Mono Amp | eBay
This says max 50v... not seeing the +/- but then the price is jumping up again.
WONDOM 1X 500W Class D Audio Amplifier Board Compact T-AMP Mono Subwoofer | eBay
Wondering for the fan powered ones if can run the power for the pre-amp off the same output/terminal, just soldered to the back side.
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WONDOM 1X 300W Class D Audio Amplifier Board Compact -T-AMP AA-AB31194 Subwoofer 6959687311432 | eBay
Rated for up to 40v DC, and runs a single channel.
Will do somewhere around 90w into 8ohm. Find a 36v 3A power supply and that Eminence full-range unit, and you're done.
90w into that driver will be pretty loud, and even if you accidentally run that amp into hard clipping, you'll struggle to hurt anything.
Chris
Rated for up to 40v DC, and runs a single channel.
Will do somewhere around 90w into 8ohm. Find a 36v 3A power supply and that Eminence full-range unit, and you're done.
90w into that driver will be pretty loud, and even if you accidentally run that amp into hard clipping, you'll struggle to hurt anything.
Chris
...and is full audio bandwidth, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, despite the word "subwoofer" in the title.
Allowing for 3 volts loss due to output device saturation, and power supply droop, I estimate more like 70 watts RMS. (But what's a decibel between friends?)
Freakin way-too-bloody-loud in a home setting, I would think...
-Gnobuddy
You´ve been going round in circles by now you have a trillion options on the table and the water is murkier than ever.
But now you know more than when you began so you can take a decision.
You started quite right, and not surprisingly your first choice was already very good , well balanced, and to boot, inexpensive:
For Guitar you need Guitar speakers.
In my personal view, even if using an emulator.
Suggested supply voltage is 36V which will provide some 70W RMS to each speaker ... perfect match.
Forget the goofy 6 ohm rating, all it means is that it will drive 8 ohm speakers fine.
And by now you know that power out basically depends on power supply voltage and speaker impedance ... that´s how I arrived to the about 70W per channel rating.
It makes you nervous being so close to rated speaker power?
Well, in principle you will avoid clipping the class D amp, so I suggest a couple antiparallel diodes at the input, followed by a trimmer volume cobntrol set so diodes limit input peaks, and output peaks never ever reach supply rails.
You can set to, say, clipping at 50W RMS per channel so that becomes the "real rated power"
Sensitivity can be set to 341 mV which provide ample range, or 460mV which is about what the pair diode clippers can supply.
In any case you probably will set it to some convenient value and handle everything else from the preamp/emulator/pedalboard.
It is a good idea, basically what is the industry standard, and quite loud.
Compare it to Tech 21 Power Engine:
TECH 21 - Power Engine 60, 60 Watts of Transparent Power, Powered Extention Cabinet
Basic same configuration, but you have double everything
They use
by now you have a trillion options on the table and the water is murkier than ever.But now you know more than when you began
so you can take a decision.You started quite right, and not surprisingly your first choice was already very good , well balanced, and to boot, inexpensive:
Cool. Well thought and achievable goal.
Excellent choice.
For Guitar you need Guitar speakers.
In my personal view, even if using an emulator.
A perfect match.
Suggested supply voltage is 36V which will provide some 70W RMS to each speaker ... perfect match.
Forget the goofy 6 ohm rating, all it means is that it will drive 8 ohm speakers fine.
And by now you know that power out basically depends on power supply voltage and speaker impedance ... that´s how I arrived to the about 70W per channel rating.
It makes you nervous being so close to rated speaker power?
Well, in principle you will avoid clipping the class D amp, so I suggest a couple antiparallel diodes at the input, followed by a trimmer volume cobntrol set so diodes limit input peaks, and output peaks never ever reach supply rails.
You can set to, say, clipping at 50W RMS per channel so that becomes the "real rated power"
Sensitivity can be set to 341 mV which provide ample range, or 460mV which is about what the pair diode clippers can supply.
Ok, now search for a 36V 200W or 6A supply and you are done.
You add your own volume control.
In any case you probably will set it to some convenient value and handle everything else from the preamp/emulator/pedalboard.
It is a good idea, basically what is the industry standard, and quite loud.
Compare it to Tech 21 Power Engine:
TECH 21 - Power Engine 60, 60 Watts of Transparent Power, Powered Extention Cabinet
Basic same configuration, but you have double everything
They use
, if you wish you can do the same.
... But then you've got the chosen colouration from the amp modeller, and you're putting it through something that will always add it's own "tone" to those settings, which might be good for one sound, but might not work for another.
Isn't it better to have a flat speaker?
There's also the point that the flat speaker would be able to add reverb effects that sound like the amp is in a hall/room/whatever, whereas the guitar speaker will make the reverb sound coloured, too.
Chris
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