Faital Pro 4FE32 4" Lightweight Neodymium Full-Range Speakers 4Fe32 - Faital Pro 4FE32 mid-high speaker. Faital Pro 4FE32 has a wide frequency range from 90Hz to 20kHz and has a lightweight neodymium magnet. Faital Pro 4FE32 60 watt 3" has an efficie
Faital Pro 4FE35 4" Full-Range Ferrite Speakers 4Fe35 - Faital Pro 4FE35 full-range speaker. The Faital Pro 4FE35 has a wide frequency range from 90Hz to 20kHz and has a ferrite magnet - Faital Pro 4FE35 60 watt 3" has an efficiency of 91dB SPL for a
Faital Pro 4FE35 4" Full-Range Ferrite Speakers 4Fe35 - Faital Pro 4FE35 full-range speaker. The Faital Pro 4FE35 has a wide frequency range from 90Hz to 20kHz and has a ferrite magnet - Faital Pro 4FE35 60 watt 3" has an efficiency of 91dB SPL for a
> Faital Pro 4FE35 4" Full-Range
Reference Efficiency 0.19%
A "real" guitar speaker is 1% to 4%. (JBL E-130 peaked near 7% but was a little big for a backpack.)
The small size is forcing ten times the amplifier power. The small size won't really move a lot of air.
(That's not even considering losses due to lack of box.)
> I test first without a box.
So do it your way.
Reference Efficiency 0.19%
A "real" guitar speaker is 1% to 4%. (JBL E-130 peaked near 7% but was a little big for a backpack.)
The small size is forcing ten times the amplifier power. The small size won't really move a lot of air.
(That's not even considering losses due to lack of box.)
> I test first without a box.
So do it your way.
New members should read the 
I made PCBs of my favorite amp - a Roland JC120 (just preamp side). The ultimate undisputed "Clean" guitar amp. Does everything from Jazz to Metal.
I coupled one PCB to an ICEPower 200ASC amp module and it sounds excellent. Also made another coupled to a Gainclone (LM3886). Only one channel, so doesn't do that gorgeous chorus, but can add another channel with a Boss Chorus pedal and achieve that sound....
So good that am now selling my real JC-120.
I coupled one PCB to an ICEPower 200ASC amp module and it sounds excellent. Also made another coupled to a Gainclone (LM3886). Only one channel, so doesn't do that gorgeous chorus, but can add another channel with a Boss Chorus pedal and achieve that sound....
So good that am now selling my real JC-120.
Google my friend....I cloned the original JC-120 schematic with the 2SK117, not the later versions with opamps...
I had a fellow here do the artwork, and I ordered the fab from China. It sounded OK, and it sat in my closet for a while, then I realized the four 2SK117 I used were fake. I replaced them with known real 2SK170 and it sound better than the real one (with opamps).
Dotneck - you wanna PCB to try yourself for free (I had to make 20 pcbs)?
I had a fellow here do the artwork, and I ordered the fab from China. It sounded OK, and it sat in my closet for a while, then I realized the four 2SK117 I used were fake. I replaced them with known real 2SK170 and it sound better than the real one (with opamps).
Dotneck - you wanna PCB to try yourself for free (I had to make 20 pcbs)?
@john65b: THANKS for the free PCB offer! But no, I was just nosing around trying to find a schematic for my Roland Micro Cube. Which has NOT been successful! I do see that the Roland JC-120 and 40 others are listed but NOT the Micro Cube--for some unknown reason. Glad that you are enjoying your homemade Tele. My Gibson ES-335 is an oldie but goodie, made in April of 1961, and has the super-thin neck made only that year of manufacture; I absolutely love it!! It's the best electric guitar I have ever played, and that includes a '59 burst.
Sounding like crap is more targeted todo with the sound (harmonics), gain/overdrive and speaker distortions scaling with volume level.
The reason they probably sound like crap probably one of three things:
a) there is nothing to give the classic/desired sound so Class D is all you get
b) the surrounding power supply and filtering is done on the cheap
c) the speaker they're hooked up to is also done on the cheap
It depends on what you want out of a guitar amplifier.
I'd probably go with a small tube preamp front end, it would allow you to shape/distort then let the D class then simply provide the current and final output amplification.
I used to have an old Marshall 5W practice amp.. but it disappeared (I think it got thrown out) but looking back on it now it would have been perfect to modify.
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I bought some 2SK117's (green) and I am not sure if they are fakes or not. Any way to tell? I was planning to do a simple preamp also.
Look at the top of the transistor - you should see a small rectangle on the seam joining the two parts - flat side and "d" side.
That little rectangle should be right smack in middle - centered on seam. Fakes are offset to one side on the 2SK170 and 2SK117.
Also, the Drain-Source resistance should be around 50 ohms for the 2SK170, unfortunately I cannot remember what it was on the 2SK117...
This may or may not be factual (I found all this out here on DIYAudio), but have no reason to not believe....made huge difference in my guitar preamp and a pacific phono stage that sounded ok/crappy for longest time due to "fake" 2SK170.
That little rectangle should be right smack in middle - centered on seam. Fakes are offset to one side on the 2SK170 and 2SK117.
Also, the Drain-Source resistance should be around 50 ohms for the 2SK170, unfortunately I cannot remember what it was on the 2SK117...
This may or may not be factual (I found all this out here on DIYAudio), but have no reason to not believe....made huge difference in my guitar preamp and a pacific phono stage that sounded ok/crappy for longest time due to "fake" 2SK170.