Hey all-
First post here.
I have an old Baldwin organ power amp which I'm converting for use with bass guitar. I'll be adding a 6sl7 preamp to it ala an Ampeg B-15Na. Not an exact topology match, but whatever.
I like the idea of being able to switch out my rectifiers(dual 5u4's) for a S.S. when I want a less saggy response and more headroom.
I happened to come across a couple of T-SSR01's on Craigslist. In case you're wondering these are a S.S. rectifier bridge built into an octal housing.
Now they look a little banged up which is fine, but I'm not going to be able to stick them into my amp to test function(nor do I want to).
My question is: does anybody know if I can test these things with a multimeter in the parking lot of a jack in the box? I don't need to know they are perfectly in spec, just that they aren't blown up. My feeling is that it's just a couple sets of diodes in series and I should be able to test this with a diode function(not sure what a good reading should be tho).
And also it seems like I should be able to test resistance across pins 4-8 and pins 6-8 with no OL showing in one polarity and whatever resistance in the other.
Or is there no way to test it with the voltage a DMM will put out?
As a followup question- if I do this, the S.S. will put out (I've heard) about 15-20% more B+ than the tube. Do I need to double check all my load lines at this higher voltage, or is it common practice to not worry about it? If it's that much I'm inclined to redraw everything to make sure, just wondering what yalls take is.
Thanks in advance!
First post here.
I have an old Baldwin organ power amp which I'm converting for use with bass guitar. I'll be adding a 6sl7 preamp to it ala an Ampeg B-15Na. Not an exact topology match, but whatever.
I like the idea of being able to switch out my rectifiers(dual 5u4's) for a S.S. when I want a less saggy response and more headroom.
I happened to come across a couple of T-SSR01's on Craigslist. In case you're wondering these are a S.S. rectifier bridge built into an octal housing.
Now they look a little banged up which is fine, but I'm not going to be able to stick them into my amp to test function(nor do I want to).
My question is: does anybody know if I can test these things with a multimeter in the parking lot of a jack in the box? I don't need to know they are perfectly in spec, just that they aren't blown up. My feeling is that it's just a couple sets of diodes in series and I should be able to test this with a diode function(not sure what a good reading should be tho).
And also it seems like I should be able to test resistance across pins 4-8 and pins 6-8 with no OL showing in one polarity and whatever resistance in the other.
Or is there no way to test it with the voltage a DMM will put out?
As a followup question- if I do this, the S.S. will put out (I've heard) about 15-20% more B+ than the tube. Do I need to double check all my load lines at this higher voltage, or is it common practice to not worry about it? If it's that much I'm inclined to redraw everything to make sure, just wondering what yalls take is.
Thanks in advance!
In the old days, there was a company manufacturing solid state GZ34 replacement modules. They consisted of a REC53A diode, (1200V 1Amp) and a 100R 7Watt resistor in series with each of the pair of diodes. They worked very well but one must bear in mind there is no warm up time, so a standby switch was essential and the voltage drop is different. Valve rectifiers drop anything from 15V if Mercury to 80Volts if 5U3. You can check the SSR01s with a meter on diode test. If not conducting both ways, they are probably OK.
The link https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...ei=YM4-V_noAd60gAah_oBQ#imgrc=XqiKxLz5k3z66M: will give you a few ideas.
The link https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=s...ei=YM4-V_noAd60gAah_oBQ#imgrc=XqiKxLz5k3z66M: will give you a few ideas.
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