I mean modification on audio stage (probably only possible) before and after ADC/DAC, replacing caps on the signal path, maybe opamps, better power supply filtering...
Korg is stop production of this model and similar other: AX3A, AX3B, AX5A...
All share same PCB and similar schematics.
Thanks for replay Enzo. And sorry for my bad English.
Korg is stop production of this model and similar other: AX3A, AX3B, AX5A...
All share same PCB and similar schematics.
Thanks for replay Enzo. And sorry for my bad English.
Hi Vangelis,
I am not a Korg support centre nor Korg Technician, but I am quite certain that Korg will not tell you what modifications to do on their products, simply because it's not their business to do so. You should try Gearslutz.com in the "electronic music" forum (and maybe other forums also other forums), there are a lot of people who do that kind of thing in the gearslutz community.
If you tell use what opamps are in the unit and what type of capacitors (pictures would be nice too) then we can suggest to you some better modern-day equivalents.
by the way, sorry for asking but are you... Vangelis, the musician?
cheers,
gain-wire
I am not a Korg support centre nor Korg Technician, but I am quite certain that Korg will not tell you what modifications to do on their products, simply because it's not their business to do so. You should try Gearslutz.com in the "electronic music" forum (and maybe other forums also other forums), there are a lot of people who do that kind of thing in the gearslutz community.
If you tell use what opamps are in the unit and what type of capacitors (pictures would be nice too) then we can suggest to you some better modern-day equivalents.
by the way, sorry for asking but are you... Vangelis, the musician?
cheers,
gain-wire
Many thanks for reply. My digital camera is broken and I will try to find another and make some photo. Anyway I find with scope several electrolytic capacitors on signal path. Yes, these is Elna, but I like metal film more.
Oh my God!!! Nice joke! Unfortunately I'm not real Vangelis
Real Vangelis is my music idol and I just using his name as my nikname...
cheers
Of course, I understand that Korg will not tell me about modding, but I can't find proper contact of Support Center on KORG site, where I can ask for schematic.
My country, unfortunately, has no KORG service center...
I was responding to gain-wire with my comment.
I don't know who distributes Korg products in Europe. KorgUSA might respond, but probably not. I think there is a KorgUK.
I found this Korg forum, perhaps someone there can help with what you need, and may even have some ideas for you. if you go there and anything results, please let us know.
Korg Forums :: Index
I don't know who distributes Korg products in Europe. KorgUSA might respond, but probably not. I think there is a KorgUK.
I found this Korg forum, perhaps someone there can help with what you need, and may even have some ideas for you. if you go there and anything results, please let us know.
Korg Forums :: Index
Indeed. I just saw this.
Wow. KorgUK is very kind to send you a service manual for free!
to Vangelis: What do you mean you "found with your scope" some electrolytic capacitors?
I mean, I put audio signal generator (sine wave 1KHz) on Korg input and check every electrolytic cap with oscilloscope. Then I replace all of them with metal film capacitors (Wima), except C26/C32 which i replaced with 22u tantalum.
Sound became a lot transparent.
This is the list of what I exactly changed:
C3 0.1u >> 100n/63V Wima MF
C39,C76,C79 10u >> 1u/63V Wima MF
C26,C32 100u >> 22uF/16V Tantalum (better solution is 10u/16V Wima MF)
On every filter supply electrolytic cap I have put once more 100n/50v ceramic cap in parallel on solder side of PCB.
For everybody who's want do this upgrade: be very careful when you unsolder stock caps, PCB wires can be damage easily. Maybe better way is carefully cutting leads of stock caps and then unsolder one by one.
Anyway, result of this delicate job is much better dynamic, transparent sound, especially on clean sound presets and bypass mode.
Sorry, but I steel have not good digital camera for photos of my modifications.
Sound became a lot transparent.
This is the list of what I exactly changed:
C3 0.1u >> 100n/63V Wima MF
C39,C76,C79 10u >> 1u/63V Wima MF
C26,C32 100u >> 22uF/16V Tantalum (better solution is 10u/16V Wima MF)
On every filter supply electrolytic cap I have put once more 100n/50v ceramic cap in parallel on solder side of PCB.
For everybody who's want do this upgrade: be very careful when you unsolder stock caps, PCB wires can be damage easily. Maybe better way is carefully cutting leads of stock caps and then unsolder one by one.
Anyway, result of this delicate job is much better dynamic, transparent sound, especially on clean sound presets and bypass mode.
Sorry, but I steel have not good digital camera for photos of my modifications.
Ah, I understand. You know, until now I thought the AX-3g was a synthesizer! I searched for it on the web and found out it's an effects processor. Now I know why you wanted to change capacitors in the signal path. I was thinking for a synthesizer, why someone would bother to change capacitors, but for an effects processor, I understand.
Thank you for the details of your findings.
Thank you for the details of your findings.
Korg AX3G modification
I have one of this, which i sold to a friend, he damaged and i recovered and repaired it, but the frame was broken, so instead of making a new box, i took off the pedal, and i am now attaching a photocell. THe idea is having a light beam from a LED to the photosensor. It's already tested and it works. There are no diagrams in the Internet, but i can send you pictures of the board. Is the same for several models, with some components stripped out. I noticed that there is a place for the expression pedal input, but you can use the proper pedal and attach any kind of variable resistor up to 10 kOhm. TRy with a phototransistor, or a inclinometer.
I have one of this, which i sold to a friend, he damaged and i recovered and repaired it, but the frame was broken, so instead of making a new box, i took off the pedal, and i am now attaching a photocell. THe idea is having a light beam from a LED to the photosensor. It's already tested and it works. There are no diagrams in the Internet, but i can send you pictures of the board. Is the same for several models, with some components stripped out. I noticed that there is a place for the expression pedal input, but you can use the proper pedal and attach any kind of variable resistor up to 10 kOhm. TRy with a phototransistor, or a inclinometer.
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