6L6 is correct, the design of Noir assumes (requires) its own dedicated SMPS. Some builders have put their Noir PCB into the same chassis as a brick-style SMPS, in which case the external source of power is an AC mains line cord.
The Mean Well EPS-25-24 (link) is one possibility; its size is 3 inches by 2 inches.
And there are lots more to choose from; a preliminary search on DigiKey found 131 candidates to study further: link 2
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The Mean Well EPS-25-24 (link) is one possibility; its size is 3 inches by 2 inches.
And there are lots more to choose from; a preliminary search on DigiKey found 131 candidates to study further: link 2
_
Hi Mark and others.
I had time to come back to the "problem" of the glowing LED described in the post #275
I measured some voltages and found out that when the power supply is connected, Noir is switched off, and other-audio-gear with the grounded output is connected to the Noir input, I have 2.35 VDC accross the LED, and that makes it glow faintly. The glow does not start immediatelly - it takes some 8-10 sec to start glowing, as some capacitor charges up and then gives the voltage accoss the LED.
I also measured the AC from the negative rail of the power supply and the ground and got ~1.5V.
Yes, this can be solved (or rather hidden) by putting 200R resistor in paralled with the LED - with the resistor in place the LED does not glow. I tried this.
But the most worrying thing is that Noir does not work at all with the other SMPS (Mean Well 24V, 5A - the one that was supplied by the diyAudio store with the ACA) when connected to the other equipment that is grounded. This SMPS starts blinking as if some protection kicks in and pulsates in 2 sec cycles. Therefore I find it not being ok to just stick the resistor and forget it, as it shows that (at least mine) Noir is not usable in some conditions.
I like the sound of Noir very much, so I would like it to be "foolproof". My knowledge is not good enough to understand what is causing the problem and how it could be eliminated for sure rather than just hidden.
Would be glad to try something else if somebody gives some ideas to try.
-Alvydas
I had time to come back to the "problem" of the glowing LED described in the post #275
I measured some voltages and found out that when the power supply is connected, Noir is switched off, and other-audio-gear with the grounded output is connected to the Noir input, I have 2.35 VDC accross the LED, and that makes it glow faintly. The glow does not start immediatelly - it takes some 8-10 sec to start glowing, as some capacitor charges up and then gives the voltage accoss the LED.
I also measured the AC from the negative rail of the power supply and the ground and got ~1.5V.
Yes, this can be solved (or rather hidden) by putting 200R resistor in paralled with the LED - with the resistor in place the LED does not glow. I tried this.
But the most worrying thing is that Noir does not work at all with the other SMPS (Mean Well 24V, 5A - the one that was supplied by the diyAudio store with the ACA) when connected to the other equipment that is grounded. This SMPS starts blinking as if some protection kicks in and pulsates in 2 sec cycles. Therefore I find it not being ok to just stick the resistor and forget it, as it shows that (at least mine) Noir is not usable in some conditions.
I like the sound of Noir very much, so I would like it to be "foolproof". My knowledge is not good enough to understand what is causing the problem and how it could be eliminated for sure rather than just hidden.
Would be glad to try something else if somebody gives some ideas to try.
-Alvydas
As promised, I come back with some photos of the project, it was long, and complicated and it's not over.
The general design is not mine, you can find it at "LIEDSON", I still modified the curves, the angles and the size, added aluminum between the sections.
It is controlled by an ARDUINO, which allows me to manage the inputs / outputs with an impulse on the volume button, as well as the management of ON / OFF with the push button at the bottom.
I use a 64-step "KHOZMO" relay attenuator, the supplied remote control has a 5th ON / OFF button, I got its code to control the ON / OFF from the arduino using an IR LED .
I inserted a passive Pre-amp output for my F6, the power supply is composed of an R-CORE transformer and 64 capacitors for a total of 10 000uf.
When I said that it was not finished, it is because I faced difficulties with the wood (fir) which is too fragile, and difficult to machine.
I started on this wood because I wanted to keep the grain along the entire length of the block.
So I am going to redo another block this time in American Walnut, a noble wood, easy to work, I will work it this time on glued edges of 40 to 50mm and the result will be even more beautiful.
Regarding listening, I was able to test it with 3 different power supplies, SMPS and classic with 20,000 and 10,000uf, the classic is beautiful, soft and pleasant.
The 10,000uf version is the one I prefer, it adds a hint of bass, while the 20 000uf version becomes fatigaunte on long listening, more the multiplication of the capacitors, allows to obtain more precise bass, very pleasant.
The negative point, I still have a buzz of present, very light, I only hear it on the ELEGIA, on the ELEAR it disappears, probably due to its low impedance (more sensitive).
In addition I pick up a series of frequencies spaced 40 sec apart, so I am considering a faraday cage, what do you think?
The general design is not mine, you can find it at "LIEDSON", I still modified the curves, the angles and the size, added aluminum between the sections.
It is controlled by an ARDUINO, which allows me to manage the inputs / outputs with an impulse on the volume button, as well as the management of ON / OFF with the push button at the bottom.
I use a 64-step "KHOZMO" relay attenuator, the supplied remote control has a 5th ON / OFF button, I got its code to control the ON / OFF from the arduino using an IR LED .
I inserted a passive Pre-amp output for my F6, the power supply is composed of an R-CORE transformer and 64 capacitors for a total of 10 000uf.
When I said that it was not finished, it is because I faced difficulties with the wood (fir) which is too fragile, and difficult to machine.
I started on this wood because I wanted to keep the grain along the entire length of the block.
So I am going to redo another block this time in American Walnut, a noble wood, easy to work, I will work it this time on glued edges of 40 to 50mm and the result will be even more beautiful.
Regarding listening, I was able to test it with 3 different power supplies, SMPS and classic with 20,000 and 10,000uf, the classic is beautiful, soft and pleasant.
The 10,000uf version is the one I prefer, it adds a hint of bass, while the 20 000uf version becomes fatigaunte on long listening, more the multiplication of the capacitors, allows to obtain more precise bass, very pleasant.
The negative point, I still have a buzz of present, very light, I only hear it on the ELEGIA, on the ELEAR it disappears, probably due to its low impedance (more sensitive).
In addition I pick up a series of frequencies spaced 40 sec apart, so I am considering a faraday cage, what do you think?
Attachments
Hi guys,
First time building an amp and I've gone with the Noir - hoping I might be able to get some assistance here. I've built speaker crossovers/headphone cables before but that's about the extent of my soldering experience.
I've followed the guide to the letter but now that I've gotten to the power up and bios phase I can see with the multimeter that nothing is running through the left channel (no voltage and no heat either on R77). I've double checked the soldering on the components leading to the resistors via the schematic and it all looks alright, I've even redone C72 as a precaution but still nothing.
Any recommendations on what I can do to test this or what might be happening here?
First time building an amp and I've gone with the Noir - hoping I might be able to get some assistance here. I've built speaker crossovers/headphone cables before but that's about the extent of my soldering experience.
I've followed the guide to the letter but now that I've gotten to the power up and bios phase I can see with the multimeter that nothing is running through the left channel (no voltage and no heat either on R77). I've double checked the soldering on the components leading to the resistors via the schematic and it all looks alright, I've even redone C72 as a precaution but still nothing.
Any recommendations on what I can do to test this or what might be happening here?
The good news is, you've got a working right channel. You can compare the measured voltages of right versus left channels, and get an idea of where your build starts to go wrong.
The schematics are attached below. I suggest you print them out, and write the DVM measured node voltages directly upon the schematics. Do it for both the right (working) channel and the left (not working) channel. You'll measure voltages between {node} and {GND} , and don't be surprised when all of your measurements are negative numbers. Noir's single ended power supply is a negative voltage after all.
Upload your annotated schematic, with node voltages, here to the Forum. Then members can offer their opinions and diagnoses of what might be happening.
_
The schematics are attached below. I suggest you print them out, and write the DVM measured node voltages directly upon the schematics. Do it for both the right (working) channel and the left (not working) channel. You'll measure voltages between {node} and {GND} , and don't be surprised when all of your measurements are negative numbers. Noir's single ended power supply is a negative voltage after all.
Upload your annotated schematic, with node voltages, here to the Forum. Then members can offer their opinions and diagnoses of what might be happening.
_
Attachments
You can check some Voltage (vs ground).
If it’s the first time you do it - put your voltmetre on a ground and then measure at some points.
Nothing difficult - just avoid creating a short…
R24 or R74 at -6.6V
R29 or R79 at -16v
You might have an issue on Q21 or Q71…
If you measure -22V on R29 or R79 that’s probably this
If it’s the first time you do it - put your voltmetre on a ground and then measure at some points.
Nothing difficult - just avoid creating a short…
R24 or R74 at -6.6V
R29 or R79 at -16v
You might have an issue on Q21 or Q71…
If you measure -22V on R29 or R79 that’s probably this
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Mark, this is a fantastic offering.
I have built the BA-3 and Wayne’s linestage. Though not entirely without issues. I am considering a low cost good sounding build with high chance of success, and came across the Noir. Price vs effort vs performance seems outstanding. Thank you, Mark!
If I do this, intention is to primarily use as a preamp for the BA-3. gainwise, it makes perfect sense. I don’t know when I will succeed in making my WLS work. So there we are.
Maybe an impossible question, but are there any impressions on the performance of the Noir vs Wayne’s linestage?
Happy for any insight.
Regards,
Andy
I have built the BA-3 and Wayne’s linestage. Though not entirely without issues. I am considering a low cost good sounding build with high chance of success, and came across the Noir. Price vs effort vs performance seems outstanding. Thank you, Mark!
If I do this, intention is to primarily use as a preamp for the BA-3. gainwise, it makes perfect sense. I don’t know when I will succeed in making my WLS work. So there we are.
Maybe an impossible question, but are there any impressions on the performance of the Noir vs Wayne’s linestage?
Happy for any insight.
Regards,
Andy
Just a follow up on power supplies for those of us who reside in Europe.
I do not know what to look for except that it needs to be 24v DC and at least have 500mA current capacity. I guess this will work both for the Noir and preamps like the B1K?
9923000047 | Mascot, 12W Plug In Power Supply 24V dc, 500mA, 1 Output Switched Mode Power Supply, Type C | RS Components
But it is quite expensive at approx 40 dollars. Then again, it’s a Mascot =)
I do not know what to look for except that it needs to be 24v DC and at least have 500mA current capacity. I guess this will work both for the Noir and preamps like the B1K?
9923000047 | Mascot, 12W Plug In Power Supply 24V dc, 500mA, 1 Output Switched Mode Power Supply, Type C | RS Components
But it is quite expensive at approx 40 dollars. Then again, it’s a Mascot =)
@andynor, I had a strange experience with different wall warts with Noir when connected to other equipment that had grounded case.
A MeanWell SMPS of 24V, 1.67A worked fine.
But another MeanWell SMPS (the one supplied by diyAudio store for ACA, 24V, 5A) did not. When powered on, this MeanWell PSU started to pulsate in cycles of about 1-2 sec, and same happened to Noir power. So some protection circuit on the PSU was kicking in. This stoped if I disconnected the RCA inputs from Noir.
The difference between these PSUs was that the fine working one did have the residual voltage of half he wall output (~110V in Europe) on its outer power plug contact, and the one that did not work did not have this residual voltage on the plug.
Go figure. I did not find the real reasons of all this.
A MeanWell SMPS of 24V, 1.67A worked fine.
But another MeanWell SMPS (the one supplied by diyAudio store for ACA, 24V, 5A) did not. When powered on, this MeanWell PSU started to pulsate in cycles of about 1-2 sec, and same happened to Noir power. So some protection circuit on the PSU was kicking in. This stoped if I disconnected the RCA inputs from Noir.
The difference between these PSUs was that the fine working one did have the residual voltage of half he wall output (~110V in Europe) on its outer power plug contact, and the one that did not work did not have this residual voltage on the plug.
Go figure. I did not find the real reasons of all this.
I see. Was this the one you used that worked?
Digikey part number: SGA40E24-P1J
Digikey will sell me the Triad. But with US plugs...
Can anyone confirm that this MeanWell will do the job?
Managed to assemble a basket by using Digikey for the parts Mouser were out of.
Won’t order just yet. Must give the WLS a chance to work first =)
Regards,
Andy
Digikey part number: SGA40E24-P1J
Digikey will sell me the Triad. But with US plugs...
Can anyone confirm that this MeanWell will do the job?
Managed to assemble a basket by using Digikey for the parts Mouser were out of.
Won’t order just yet. Must give the WLS a chance to work first =)
Regards,
Andy
The actual one that works for me is this:
GST40A24-P1J.
But it should not be about the actual models. I did not hear other people complaning about any PSUs not working with Noir. That's why I was confused finding that the one supplied with ACA did not work and that this problem was only when the Noir was connected to other equipment with the grounded chassis. I don't know if that has anything to do with Noir using the negative power or something. I do not know enough myself to explain this, and, unfortunatelly, I did not get any explanaition on this forum.
GST40A24-P1J.
But it should not be about the actual models. I did not hear other people complaning about any PSUs not working with Noir. That's why I was confused finding that the one supplied with ACA did not work and that this problem was only when the Noir was connected to other equipment with the grounded chassis. I don't know if that has anything to do with Noir using the negative power or something. I do not know enough myself to explain this, and, unfortunatelly, I did not get any explanaition on this forum.
