Hi all,
I'm starting to build it up and I receive most of parts. Quick on on C27 and 1U. Which one do you recommend? I usually put WIMA but they seem too big.
I'm going for this one at Digikey (BFC247076105) spacing is good.
Any other recommendation?
I'm starting to build it up and I receive most of parts. Quick on on C27 and 1U. Which one do you recommend? I usually put WIMA but they seem too big.
I'm going for this one at Digikey (BFC247076105) spacing is good.
Any other recommendation?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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The TDK-EPCOS 1uF film caps mentioned in the BOM, Mouser P/N 871-B32529C105J , appear to be backordered at Mouser.
However the same capacitor is in stock and on the shelf, if you're willing to buy it in "Ammo Pack" rather than "Bulk". Which I am. Mouser P/N 871-B32529C105J289
Those who want a really cool-looking capacitor with a green case, manufactured using the acclaimed-by-audiophiles Polypropylene dielectric, can consider Mouser P/N 80-F461BS105M250A
WARNING: measure the available space on the PCB and double check it against the capacitor's datasheet, before ordering. Don't buy one that won't fit!
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However the same capacitor is in stock and on the shelf, if you're willing to buy it in "Ammo Pack" rather than "Bulk". Which I am. Mouser P/N 871-B32529C105J289
Those who want a really cool-looking capacitor with a green case, manufactured using the acclaimed-by-audiophiles Polypropylene dielectric, can consider Mouser P/N 80-F461BS105M250A
WARNING: measure the available space on the PCB and double check it against the capacitor's datasheet, before ordering. Don't buy one that won't fit!
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I just bought the PCB the other day. Looks like a nice project. I did notice that the chassis parts were not available, though. Does anyone know the dimensions of the "1U Galaxy" chassis? I can use that to get another one. Well done on the build instruction PDF, by the way. Great resource!
I also found another source for the Alps blue velvet pot. Partsconnexion has them for about the same price as Mouser did (~$20):
ALPS 10K Blue Velvet - STEREO Potentiometer
Speaking of pots, has anyone tried the cheap and cheerful "DACT type attenuator" on our favorite auction site?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...sc=0&_odkw=dact+type+attenuator+10k&_osacat=0
Thanks,
Philippe
I also found another source for the Alps blue velvet pot. Partsconnexion has them for about the same price as Mouser did (~$20):
ALPS 10K Blue Velvet - STEREO Potentiometer
Speaking of pots, has anyone tried the cheap and cheerful "DACT type attenuator" on our favorite auction site?
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...sc=0&_odkw=dact+type+attenuator+10k&_osacat=0
Thanks,
Philippe
I made some edits to the BOM. So far reformatted and swapped parts not available out with ones there were in stock. The small pictures on the parts was a nice touch.
Noir Amp BOM - Google Drive
Noir Amp BOM - Google Drive
It seems that the cost saving "bundle" consisting of (Noir PCBs + Galaxy 1U chassis) is currently sold out at the Store. BUT, it also seems that if you purchase the two pieces of the bundle individually, the not-bundled pieces are available today. It seems that PCBs without chassis are available, and it also seems that chassis without PCBs are available. If you prefer not to wait for bundles to become available again, that might be one option to consider.
I've tried an eBay 21-step DACT attenuator (20 Kohms) in my Noir, and in listening tests it seems not to change the sonic presentation at all. I.e. same as the ALPS Blue Velvet.
However, I discovered that I like the ALPS more, for other reasons. The DACT has "only" 21 steps, which is too few for my taste. I prefer the continuous adjustment on the ALPS. Worse, the shaft of the DACT has less friction; it's far easier to turn the volume knob than on the ALPS. I prefer the stiffness / solidity of the ALPS.
For me: good experiment, worthwhile results, non ambiguous conclusion.
I've tried an eBay 21-step DACT attenuator (20 Kohms) in my Noir, and in listening tests it seems not to change the sonic presentation at all. I.e. same as the ALPS Blue Velvet.
However, I discovered that I like the ALPS more, for other reasons. The DACT has "only" 21 steps, which is too few for my taste. I prefer the continuous adjustment on the ALPS. Worse, the shaft of the DACT has less friction; it's far easier to turn the volume knob than on the ALPS. I prefer the stiffness / solidity of the ALPS.
For me: good experiment, worthwhile results, non ambiguous conclusion.
All of the RK27 pots I have bought from JK_Parts on EBay have been seemingly as advertised, i.e. made in China for Alps Japan, with full length smooth round shafts. I've bought the same from Parts Express, etc. and cannot see, feel or hear any differences. Good price, Speed Pak shipping is per shipment, not each.
10K:
ORIGINAL ALPS RK27 27 Type Dual 10K Potentiometer, Brand New! | eBay
20K:
ORIGINAL ALPS RK27 27 Type Dual 20K Potentiometer, Brand New! | eBay
50K:
ORIGINAL ALPS RK27 27 Type Dual 50K Potentiometer, Brand New! | eBay
10K:
ORIGINAL ALPS RK27 27 Type Dual 10K Potentiometer, Brand New! | eBay
20K:
ORIGINAL ALPS RK27 27 Type Dual 20K Potentiometer, Brand New! | eBay
50K:
ORIGINAL ALPS RK27 27 Type Dual 50K Potentiometer, Brand New! | eBay
Ah, forgot to check the chassis section on the diyaudiostore.com site. Also taking an extra minute to actually read the description *to the end* mentioned that the smallest size Galaxy 1U (230mm x 170mm) will work for this project. I ordered one with the thinner 3mm front panel to make it easier to drill a few holes. Thanks for the pointer.
Thanks for sharing your experience here. Contributors like yourself are why I keep on revisiting this site even though I have not built anything in a while. The wealth of info is awesome. Big thumbs up. I'm going to do this build project with my 7 year old son. If he digs the amp, then I might have another budding audio geek in the house.
Thanks for the link. I replaced the pot with this one on my BOM. Will recheck and get ready to order from it soon.
I hope and trust you also read that the set of PCBs sold in the Store, includes front and rear panels for the Galaxy 1U chassis (any & every depth), including pre-drilled holes and pre-printed labels / silkscreen. These panels are made of thick black PCB material, they are PCBs in fact; and they allow builders to complete the Noir without owning or using a drill press. Image from the Store's sales page attached below.
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Yes, I did order the PCB set first before the chassis and the other parts. I also ordered everything from the BOM and the Galaxy 1U chassis. Just in the "get the other bits and bobs" stage for the build. I recall Cardas silver solder was recommended for a previous project. Have you used that or just regular 60/40 Pb solder with rosin. I'm looking at the Cardas stuff here:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...eDesc=0&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_odkw=cardas+solder
Sort by low price first and I see a seller with 11ft spools a few listings down.
Cardas on EBay:
11 feet is probably a half ounce of solder. That works out to over $200 per pound. The Fire-Metall solder on the DIY store is a much better deal if you intend to do more projects.
60/40 is not recommended as it is not eutectic. I do a lot of electronics construction and don't particularly feel the silver and other content in the exotic solders adds much performance, although many people feel otherwise.
I use Kester Sn63 (63/37 tin/lead, which is eutectic), the version with their #44 flux. It's a classic that has been around for decades. I have tried their "no clean" flux solder and find it not as effective as #44 at removing the oxide during the soldering process, requiring more time and heat to make the joint, especially when soldering bare copper materials or even "lead-free" resistor or capacitor leads.
Although Kester recommends removing the #44 flux residue post construction (supposedly not necessary with "no clean"), I've never seen any long term corrosion from not removing #44 residue. But I live in a very dry climate.
11 feet is probably a half ounce of solder. That works out to over $200 per pound. The Fire-Metall solder on the DIY store is a much better deal if you intend to do more projects.
60/40 is not recommended as it is not eutectic. I do a lot of electronics construction and don't particularly feel the silver and other content in the exotic solders adds much performance, although many people feel otherwise.
I use Kester Sn63 (63/37 tin/lead, which is eutectic), the version with their #44 flux. It's a classic that has been around for decades. I have tried their "no clean" flux solder and find it not as effective as #44 at removing the oxide during the soldering process, requiring more time and heat to make the joint, especially when soldering bare copper materials or even "lead-free" resistor or capacitor leads.
Although Kester recommends removing the #44 flux residue post construction (supposedly not necessary with "no clean"), I've never seen any long term corrosion from not removing #44 residue. But I live in a very dry climate.
Good point on the cost. I already ordered the Cardas but will try Kester or the Fire Metal Eutectic solder from diyaudiostore.com next time. The latter is $25 but it is 4oz. So it beats ~$56 for the Cardas silver (8 * $7 = $56) assuming 0.5oz.
Edit: Looked up Kester and saw that 1lb of the 60/40 was about the same price as 4oz of the Fire Metal. But its probably not eutectic. The only advantage of eutectic is less chance of over heating up the part, correct?
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I cannot speak highly enough about the Fire-Metall solder. It's unquestionably the best I've ever used.
Not that long before Fire-Metall was available I bought a pound of Cardas, and now I kinda wonder what I'm going to do with it...
Anyway, this is the Nior thread, probably should get back to the originally scheduled topic...
Not that long before Fire-Metall was available I bought a pound of Cardas, and now I kinda wonder what I'm going to do with it...
Anyway, this is the Nior thread, probably should get back to the originally scheduled topic...
This is another option. These are very well made. I have two of them on-hand and just put one of these into my second Whammy and its excellent. Note this is a link to the 250k not the 100k so look for the proper one for your application and note the dimensions as I am not sure it will fit into the stock NOIR chassis so double check.
Ladder Type Attenuator Volume Potentiometer Stereo Channels 59 Step HIFI 50K | eBay
Was reading through the build guide:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/Noir_HPA_build_instructions_rev_F.pdf?361
and was looking at the wiring section (starting on p 17) and the nice photos. Would it be ok to use the wires from plenum grade network cable? Only diff is that they are 24 awg solid copper rather than 26 awg. Its also cheap and chearfull since you can get it as low as 93 cents a foot (for 8 wires). So that's about 11.6 cents per foot for each wire.
Edit: I've read about some folks using silver plated copper jewlery wire. You either need a ton of heat shrink casing, or something else to cover the wire? Sounds like too much work for me...
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1006/5046/files/Noir_HPA_build_instructions_rev_F.pdf?361
and was looking at the wiring section (starting on p 17) and the nice photos. Would it be ok to use the wires from plenum grade network cable? Only diff is that they are 24 awg solid copper rather than 26 awg. Its also cheap and chearfull since you can get it as low as 93 cents a foot (for 8 wires). So that's about 11.6 cents per foot for each wire.
Edit: I've read about some folks using silver plated copper jewlery wire. You either need a ton of heat shrink casing, or something else to cover the wire? Sounds like too much work for me...
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