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KZ ZS6 IEM Modified
KZ ZS6 IEM Modified
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Old 18th September 2019, 02:16 AM   #11
Pars is offline Pars  United States
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Mine don't have any foam whatsoever in them. Just the screen thing. Eartips are Radioshack Auvio silicone (my brother likes these with his, so that is what is on them).

A question: Mr. L mentioned that 250nf was the ideal capacitor, but that he liked the sound of the 680nf, which is what I used. I noticed you used 470nf on yours. Does the increase in capacitance (680 vs. 470) increase bass (or decrease midrange)? I'm not up on crossover/filter design, hence me asking. The 680 might be a touch bass heavy for my brother, so that is the concern.
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Old 18th September 2019, 02:55 AM   #12
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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Only changes the mid-range functional range.
Why not ask Mr. L himself.


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Old 19th September 2019, 05:42 PM   #13
Pars is offline Pars  United States
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Posted this on original thread as well. I had simply replaced the original resistors with the MELFs but it looks like you only want to solder the resistor to a driver on one end, and connect the red wire running to the cap on the other end? I assume the solder connections on the driver are the terminals for that driver?

If so, I'll go back in and redo these.
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Old 21st September 2019, 08:04 AM   #14
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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> it looks like you only want to solder the resistor to a driver on one end, and connect the red wire running to the cap on the other end?

Correct.


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Old 22nd September 2019, 02:41 PM   #15
Pars is offline Pars  United States
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I redid one pair the other day, and listened to it quite a bit. Initially I thought it sounded flatter and more neutral, so I decided to compare the 2 pairs on classical music (Bernstein/CSO/Shostakovich 1 and 7). I had assumed that the correctly modded pair would sound much better; I was wrong. The violins and strings sounded a bit steely. The pair where the 7.5R was basically in parallel with the midrange driver sounded better, and was not too bassy (I'm assuming the driver right over the eartube is the midrange).

The correctly modded pair measures (DMM) around 12.5R on the input whereas the paralleled 7.5R measures ~5R (a bit under) at the input. My iPhone seems to drive these just fine, with plenty of headroom. I'm theorizing that the paralleled resistor would pull the midrange output down some; how much I'm not sure of as I don't have the measurement tools nor the knowledge of how to calculate this. With the resistor in place, the driver measures around 6R.

I may try putting the 7.5R in series as in the properly modded pair, and then put something a bit larger across the midrange (12/16/18/20R).
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Old 22nd September 2019, 02:57 PM   #16
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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A resistor in parallel with the coil only consumes current.
It does not put more energy into the driver, which is determined by the voltage it sees.
You can leave out the 7.5R in parallel and I bet it sounds the same.

By leaving out the 7.5R in series with the mid-range, you increases the voltage it sees.
So its SPL will increase compare to the other two.
And you are now also driving it with full voltage at low frequencies.
With the 7.5R, it forms a R-L low-pass filter with the driver coil.

But if you like it better, that is the only thing important.


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Old 26th September 2019, 03:22 AM   #17
Pars is offline Pars  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EUVL View Post
A resistor in parallel with the coil only consumes current.
It does not put more energy into the driver, which is determined by the voltage it sees.
You can leave out the 7.5R in parallel and I bet it sounds the same.

By leaving out the 7.5R in series with the mid-range, you increases the voltage it sees.
So its SPL will increase compare to the other two.
And you are now also driving it with full voltage at low frequencies.
With the 7.5R, it forms a R-L low-pass filter with the driver coil.

But if you like it better, that is the only thing important.


Patrick
Thanks Patrick. I took a look at the pair I corrected the mod on (thinking I might have put the resistor in series at the point that the green wire connects to the driver), but it was done properly, from the other driver terminal to the red wire.

As for energy into the midrange (I believe), having the paralleled resistor should decrease the energy; same voltage but less current available since some of it will be dissipating in the resistor.

I'll agree that a resistor in series for a filter is desirable... not sure how this is an R-L filter though. Where is the L? Driver coil?
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Old 26th September 2019, 03:38 AM   #18
EUVL is offline EUVL  Europe
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Coil has inductance.


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