Five boards left. Two with knobs & connectors.
One fully assembled left in stock. Four more will be available within two weeks. That'll be the last of the HP-1s.
I have one fully assembled in the original blue colour scheme sitting in the US. It was demoed by Redscape Audio at CANJAM in NYC last month. Toss me a PM or email (add @neurochrome.com to my user ID here) if you're interested in this one.
Tom
One fully assembled left in stock. Four more will be available within two weeks. That'll be the last of the HP-1s.
I have one fully assembled in the original blue colour scheme sitting in the US. It was demoed by Redscape Audio at CANJAM in NYC last month. Toss me a PM or email (add @neurochrome.com to my user ID here) if you're interested in this one.
Tom
Actually... If you are interested in that demo amp, jump to my website (HP-1: Ultra-High End Headphone Amp | Neurochrome :: Audio). You'll find it among the product options. It's the only Gentian Blue HP-1 left.
The demo amp ships within 1-2 days via USPS Priority Mail from the Los Angeles, CA area.
Tom
The demo amp ships within 1-2 days via USPS Priority Mail from the Los Angeles, CA area.
Tom
My Own HP-1 version
At To reqeust, here a few pictures of my own built of his HP-1. I bought only the pcb, and made it fit into a recycled enclosure. Width and height were about right, but it was too deep. So I installed the pcb on the front, and the rear parts on the rear panel. I'll run flying wires to the pcb from there.
To match the original enclosure bottom builtin standoffs I used an aluminum interface plate, shown here with some vibration damping pad.
Then I had to drill the existing front, to match the pcb parts, not an easy job, but went well. I had also to make a special access hole just to be able to install all the cpb screws
Finally since the original front was ugly, installed a matching brush aluminum plate. You can see that I added also a 1/8 HP jack to the existing XLR and 1/4 jack.
Did the same on the back, but it was much easier this time, since I decided where to put the parts.
A few custom P-Touch labels later, it was done...
SB
At To reqeust, here a few pictures of my own built of his HP-1. I bought only the pcb, and made it fit into a recycled enclosure. Width and height were about right, but it was too deep. So I installed the pcb on the front, and the rear parts on the rear panel. I'll run flying wires to the pcb from there.
To match the original enclosure bottom builtin standoffs I used an aluminum interface plate, shown here with some vibration damping pad.
Then I had to drill the existing front, to match the pcb parts, not an easy job, but went well. I had also to make a special access hole just to be able to install all the cpb screws
Finally since the original front was ugly, installed a matching brush aluminum plate. You can see that I added also a 1/8 HP jack to the existing XLR and 1/4 jack.
Did the same on the back, but it was much easier this time, since I decided where to put the parts.
A few custom P-Touch labels later, it was done...
SB
Attachments
Algar_emi,
Nice work with the case modification - end result looks good.
How does the amp sound to you? What headphones are you using?
p.s. Also kudos on populating the PCB by yourself. In my experience Tom's documentation and support is top notch, so hopefully everything went smoothly.
Nice work with the case modification - end result looks good.
How does the amp sound to you? What headphones are you using?
p.s. Also kudos on populating the PCB by yourself. In my experience Tom's documentation and support is top notch, so hopefully everything went smoothly.
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Two fully assembled HP-1s and three bare boards left. You can find them here: HP-1: Ultra-High End Headphone Amp | Neurochrome :: Audio
My website keeps track of the inventory, so the numbers reflect the actual products in stock.
The chassis for the fully assembled are underway via FedEx and will be here tomorrow. That'll give me enough time to assemble and test the amps so they can ship on Monday.
Tom
My website keeps track of the inventory, so the numbers reflect the actual products in stock.
The chassis for the fully assembled are underway via FedEx and will be here tomorrow. That'll give me enough time to assemble and test the amps so they can ship on Monday.
Tom
Down to the last three bare PCBs in the stack. Once they're gone, the HP-1 will be retired so I can better focus on my power amps.
I may at one point entertain the thought of bringing back a headphone amp, but it'll be as a retail product rather than DIY and at a much higher cost than the HP-1.
Tom
I may at one point entertain the thought of bringing back a headphone amp, but it'll be as a retail product rather than DIY and at a much higher cost than the HP-1.
Tom
I bought the last 2 PCBs, now gathering the components from mouser/searching for alternatives for unavailable items. Luckily you can almost always get the exact same component in automotive grade or higher precision. Since I didn't order a case with it I will have to make up my own solution.
Right now the option I am considering is running wiring to the rear connectors, have a fitting custom frontplate machined and use this DIY-Case as a base for my modifications. Leaves just enough room in depth to properly run the wiring, is definitely wide enough and pretty affordable.
Other modifications I thought about:
1. Running some extra wiring from the 4 Pin XLR Socket and using the extra width available in the case to install a switch and a 4.4mm Pentaconn socket...but pentaconn sockets are only available in Japan apparently. Sadly they are mainly used by Sony and Sennheiser (partly) at the moment, but I am hoping this becomes more of an industry standard. As I think its more durable and better than 2.5mm and easier to use than 4-Pin XLR as you will always need cables for mobile use in that case.
2. Buy an even wider case and add 2 PPM Meters for the looks and for fun and because why not? But I have yet to figure out if it would be possible to just add this without negatively influencing other electronics or the performance of the amp. So it probably won't happen.
Right now the option I am considering is running wiring to the rear connectors, have a fitting custom frontplate machined and use this DIY-Case as a base for my modifications. Leaves just enough room in depth to properly run the wiring, is definitely wide enough and pretty affordable.
Other modifications I thought about:
1. Running some extra wiring from the 4 Pin XLR Socket and using the extra width available in the case to install a switch and a 4.4mm Pentaconn socket...but pentaconn sockets are only available in Japan apparently. Sadly they are mainly used by Sony and Sennheiser (partly) at the moment, but I am hoping this becomes more of an industry standard. As I think its more durable and better than 2.5mm and easier to use than 4-Pin XLR as you will always need cables for mobile use in that case.
2. Buy an even wider case and add 2 PPM Meters for the looks and for fun and because why not? But I have yet to figure out if it would be possible to just add this without negatively influencing other electronics or the performance of the amp. So it probably won't happen.
That chassis looks like a good starting point.
Moving the connectors and switches from the rear of the PCB to the rear panel is certainly one approach. The sensitive nodes are the inputs, so keep the wires short there.
Moving the front connectors and switches is another, equally valid, approach. The sensitive nodes there are the connections for the volume pot and to some extent the output connections. The switches for gain and input control control relays, so no sensitive connections go through the switches themselves.
Tom
The listing for HP-1 is removed from your website, does that mean you going to release a HP-2 version or simple discontinue the HP-1?
The page is still live. It's just moved to the support section: HP-1: Ultra-High End Headphone Amplifier
Note the first two lines: "2019/03/24: The HP-1 has been discontinued. It remains a phenomenal headphone amp and I plan for its reincarnation in the form of an improved commercial/retail product available this fall. Hopefully in time for Rocky Mountain Audio Fest (RMAF)."
Yep. I'll try a few commercial/retail headphone amps too. They won't be available as DIY products.
Tom
That's great, i really want to try the HP-1, should have grabbed 1 pcb when it was available.
I have good news for one of those of you who missed out on the HP-1. I now have one last HP-1 available. Or rather, to be available "soon". You can preorder it here: HP-1: Ultra-High End Headphone Amp | Neurochrome :: Audio I expect to be able to ship towards the end of the month, hopefully within two weeks.
Here's the story: I sold out three weeks ago while the chassis was still in manufacturing. My chassis vendor is having trouble with the manufacturing and keeps cutting the sides too short. It's only 1 mm too short, but that fails their own specs, which makes me wonder why they shipped them in the first place, but I digress... I also need to deliver a quality product, so I will keep pushing my vendor until they deliver the chassis as ordered. Anyway. At least the vendor is owning their mistakes and will remake the chassis. It just takes time. Unfortunately, one buyer got tired of waiting and has canceled his order. So I now have one left...
The buyer who backed out ordered the blue chassis, but that's traditionally been a slower seller. I'm trying to get my vendor to make it the grey version instead. I have the amp listed as blue, but there's a chance I can make it grey instead. I'll let the buyer decide and I will do my best to accommodate. Great sales pitch, I know. "Throw money at me. You get what you get..."
Ahh.... Life as a small business owner. Oh, well. The amp will sell.
Tom
Here's the story: I sold out three weeks ago while the chassis was still in manufacturing. My chassis vendor is having trouble with the manufacturing and keeps cutting the sides too short. It's only 1 mm too short, but that fails their own specs, which makes me wonder why they shipped them in the first place, but I digress... I also need to deliver a quality product, so I will keep pushing my vendor until they deliver the chassis as ordered. Anyway. At least the vendor is owning their mistakes and will remake the chassis. It just takes time. Unfortunately, one buyer got tired of waiting and has canceled his order. So I now have one left...
The buyer who backed out ordered the blue chassis, but that's traditionally been a slower seller. I'm trying to get my vendor to make it the grey version instead. I have the amp listed as blue, but there's a chance I can make it grey instead. I'll let the buyer decide and I will do my best to accommodate. Great sales pitch, I know. "Throw money at me. You get what you get..."
Ahh.... Life as a small business owner.
Oh, well. The amp will sell. Tom
Hi everyone. i have recently purchased the one of the last 5 board from Tom so please feel free to be jealous hehe. After a couple weeks (that feels like ages) I have finally finish soldered the board so please expect a review on the soldering experience and listening impression.
But now, a have got into trouble. Please, if Tom's here, help me with the situation.
After I plug the power cable in and turn on the amp, I saw the LED light constanly flashing, wich i guess is not normal. After I heard the click (i suppose is the relay), I follow step 6 on page 14 of the design doc. and my measurement is way below the number it should be (only a few milli volt). So I guess I have ****** it up.
I checked the solder joint and found that r86 may not be properly soldered (a bit charred). Is this a possible reason?
But now, a have got into trouble. Please, if Tom's here, help me with the situation.
After I plug the power cable in and turn on the amp, I saw the LED light constanly flashing, wich i guess is not normal. After I heard the click (i suppose is the relay), I follow step 6 on page 14 of the design doc. and my measurement is way below the number it should be (only a few milli volt). So I guess I have ****** it up.
I checked the solder joint and found that r86 may not be properly soldered (a bit charred). Is this a possible reason?
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