1\ On the SE-SE bom, the 1uF ceramic cap is 587-2910-1-ND which is SMD package 0805 (2012 Metric); on the PSU bom, the 445-1430-1-ND is SMD package 1210 (3225 Metric). The difference would be parasitic inductance of the two package type, according to http://www.avx.com/docs/techinfo/parasitc.pdf
1210 package would have marginally lower parasitic inductance, but a relatively much larger size.
In real world, I believe nothing different as long as you can get them on pads properly.
2\ You will need a chassis with power switch, pot position and a 1/4" plug slot (24mm clear hole for Neutrik D plug) on the front panel. On the back plate, you need a pair of RCA slots and a power slot. The closest thing I saw on ebay is some aluminum amp chassis from China. OK quality for what I bought before. Thick front plate (8mm) is what I like, though. You need a bench drill (hand drill not recommended, but can do) and some drill bits to drill the mounting holes on the bottom, and other hardwares, for example screw stands, screws, insulating washers, etc. Typically M3 for metric and #4 for English unit. If you are first time on these, plan very carefully for every step you make.
Neeviour... the PSU V2 is completely different to the original, so the V1 components won't work. Yes, the Build Wiki hasn't been properly updated, though there are some extra details within the comments section attached to the Wiki.
However, the "The Wire' All Boards Available Here' thread, where the PCB's are purchased from, has all the correct details [BOMs & sizing]. Plus the first post from OPC clearly outlines all the changes made to the various boards. There's also detailed measures of the new boards showing the benefits of the updated designs...
Sorry that you didn't spot the changes before ordering the parts.
Paul
However, the "The Wire' All Boards Available Here' thread, where the PCB's are purchased from, has all the correct details [BOMs & sizing]. Plus the first post from OPC clearly outlines all the changes made to the various boards. There's also detailed measures of the new boards showing the benefits of the updated designs...
Sorry that you didn't spot the changes before ordering the parts.
Paul
Thank you so much for your info!
I apologize for complaining before study it further. The info are available but I failed to track them all. I do not follow the forum regularly so I missed some major things here.
For others' info, I found the thread here about the new board layout, with different regulator and thus different design. BOM here.
Some of the complain may still be of some value, IMHO.
The fact that the design changed for the PSU is in the very first post of the thread you'd go to for ordering boards ... so surely alarm bells went off when ordering the BOM with LM317/337 components?
The diodes were a little fiddly to solder on the old layout, apparently much easier on this layout. I've not built one of the new PSUs (yet) but the PSU v1 was my first SMT soldering from memory and I've done quite a bit since ... so I might not be the best judge of the improvement in ease of assembly.
About the only valid comment that I saw in your post complaining was the mention of temp measurements being difficult with white boards ... less typing more thinking in future might save some $$ and time ... just a thought.
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Lessons learned. Unexpected items surprised me much, it seems.
For some of my comments
I see the new psu performs better in measurements. Was thinking of LM317/LM337. My fault.
Different sizing of the board and mounting holes are not pleasant, btw. Scattered mounting holes make it prone to mistakes/errors in mounting hole drilling. Not as easy for internal layout if you plan it in a "just right" space. And stacking the boards is not as easy, etc. Sure, if you do everything manually and in a "sufficiently large space", it might be not as bothering.
I would say if there is a general guide thread, timely updated, would be better for people not so familar with the forum.
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Thanks for the reply neeviour and the suggestions regarding case work. I think you're dead on in so far as my need for a drill press unless I can get something precut. I tried to hand drill my mini^3 panels and the outcome was not pretty heh. I may well just give one of the chinese ebay cases a go.
With respect to those caps, on the v2 psu, the 1uf caps really are the same size and apparent specs. I can't see any reason why they wouldn't be interchangeable, but as I'm not an EE, I figured it couldn't hurt to confirm. See:
-PSU: Invalid Request
-SE-SE: Invalid Request
Hi DubiousMike, sorry I didn't get around to answering your question last night... As you've shown both parts are the same specifications & sizing, just from different manufactures. I shouldn't think swapping them like you have will cause any problems 
Enclosures & Chassis for the amp... have a look at SiliconRay ... or search Aluminium Enclosures on e-bay. There's a lot of blank or pre-drilled enclosures available.
OPC posted a PDF of the current boards sizing in the 'All Boards Available Here' thread, print this off at 100% and use the printout for mounting hole alignment on the enclosures base. Use a centre punch to mark the mount holes position, this makes drilling by hand much easier
|-O-|
Have now built 3 x PSU v1, 2 x PSU V2, 2 x SE-SE, 1 x BAL-BAL, 2 x LME Class A/B Power Amp and 2 x LPUHP amps.
Can say the PSU V2 is much easier to solder thanks to the larger and new position of the diodes. Even though all the boards are compact, they're not that difficult to populate. Just start with the smallest parts first and start from the centre, working outwards... simple
Enclosures & Chassis for the amp... have a look at SiliconRay ... or search Aluminium Enclosures on e-bay. There's a lot of blank or pre-drilled enclosures available.
OPC posted a PDF of the current boards sizing in the 'All Boards Available Here' thread, print this off at 100% and use the printout for mounting hole alignment on the enclosures base. Use a centre punch to mark the mount holes position, this makes drilling by hand much easier
|-O-|
Have now built 3 x PSU v1, 2 x PSU V2, 2 x SE-SE, 1 x BAL-BAL, 2 x LME Class A/B Power Amp and 2 x LPUHP amps.
Can say the PSU V2 is much easier to solder thanks to the larger and new position of the diodes. Even though all the boards are compact, they're not that difficult to populate. Just start with the smallest parts first and start from the centre, working outwards... simple
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I am thinking of integrating the Wire SE-SE with a MCU controlled remote volume module.
The module is pretty much a pot, but by MCU controlled relays and two sets of fixed resistors. I could not reprograme the MCU so it has to be, vol = 0 (MCU logic), Rpot = 0ohm, Vol = 100, Rpot = Rmax (10Kohm or 20Kohm, etc. depends on how I configure it).
The first solution is to use this module to parallel R14/18. I should install R13/17 as 10K or so, so when vol = 0, Rin = 10K, source is not overloaded. As mentioned before, to make sure if the wiring fails there is still a signal route, I should probaly place R14/18 = 1M or so, then the pot just parallel to R14/18. Fly wire between R13/14, I think. Rmax = 100K.
Another solution is to parallel the pot with the whole Wire input (H20/23), and put a 10K resistor before them in series. Rmax = 100K, R13/17 not important. R14/18 = 1M. This is essentially the same if R13/17 = 0, a good thing is no fly wires from pads.
Which one is a better plan? Any better idea? Advices please. Thanks!
The module is pretty much a pot, but by MCU controlled relays and two sets of fixed resistors. I could not reprograme the MCU so it has to be, vol = 0 (MCU logic), Rpot = 0ohm, Vol = 100, Rpot = Rmax (10Kohm or 20Kohm, etc. depends on how I configure it).
The first solution is to use this module to parallel R14/18. I should install R13/17 as 10K or so, so when vol = 0, Rin = 10K, source is not overloaded. As mentioned before, to make sure if the wiring fails there is still a signal route, I should probaly place R14/18 = 1M or so, then the pot just parallel to R14/18. Fly wire between R13/14, I think. Rmax = 100K.
Another solution is to parallel the pot with the whole Wire input (H20/23), and put a 10K resistor before them in series. Rmax = 100K, R13/17 not important. R14/18 = 1M. This is essentially the same if R13/17 = 0, a good thing is no fly wires from pads.
Which one is a better plan? Any better idea? Advices please. Thanks!
All,
I still cannot get one channel of the SE-SE working.
Is there :
1- a likely part that I overheated/burned out?
2 - a way to trace/track down the signal and power.
(i.e., not experienced - can I use the schematic and a voltmeter on the circuit - looking for + and - VDC vs gnd - on power ins and outs and then headphone level signal vs gnd on signal-carrying points? )
Are those "extra holes" the places to test?
I would "think" that I could put the negative lead of voltmeter at gnd then touch and read various "power" pts - but might it damage the parts even more and be dangerous?
and then do the same for "signal points"
(I guess this is where the real work starts )
Thanks again
I still cannot get one channel of the SE-SE working.
Is there :
1- a likely part that I overheated/burned out?
2 - a way to trace/track down the signal and power.
(i.e., not experienced - can I use the schematic and a voltmeter on the circuit - looking for + and - VDC vs gnd - on power ins and outs and then headphone level signal vs gnd on signal-carrying points? )
Are those "extra holes" the places to test?
I would "think" that I could put the negative lead of voltmeter at gnd then touch and read various "power" pts - but might it damage the parts even more and be dangerous?
and then do the same for "signal points"
(I guess this is where the real work starts
)Thanks again
Thanks a lot for your offering!
My order for needed parts of PSU V2 is on the way, and I kept my components in collection so no need for offloading. Thank you for your kindness!
All,
I still cannot get one channel of the SE-SE working.
Is there :
1- a likely part that I overheated/burned out?
2 - a way to trace/track down the signal and power.
(i.e., not experienced - can I use the schematic and a voltmeter on the circuit - looking for + and - VDC vs gnd - on power ins and outs and then headphone level signal vs gnd on signal-carrying points? )
Are those "extra holes" the places to test?
I would "think" that I could put the negative lead of voltmeter at gnd then touch and read various "power" pts - but might it damage the parts even more and be dangerous?
and then do the same for "signal points"
(I guess this is where the real work starts
Thanks again
1\ Not too sure of this. IF you did it at right temperature and in a right way, parts I dealt with were pretty robust and never failed due to small mistakes. And if the ICs are fried, I am not too sure how to confirm in a easy way. Others may advice
2\ I would suggest go for a total connection test first. non-powered status, checking links from pin to pin. For example, test the resistance from pin3 of U9 to GND, this is to check a series of connections: pin 3 to pin 3 pad, pin 3 route till R14 pad 1, R14 pad 1 to R14, R14 to R14 pad 2, R14 pad to GND. If the resistance is exactly the size of R14, all connections it went through should be fine. Be alarm to shorts, though. Do this for all joints/pads/route. Not too much effort considering the small amount of components here.
3\ After doing above, you can consider online test. You can refer to your multimeter's manual (assume you use one) about, say input impediance of different settings. Usually passive and a large number (tens of Mohm at least) at the voltage mode, so you are just load the line with an extra 10Mohm resistor, not a problem in most cases. And most modern ICs have short circuit protection. I would DC voltage check power pins of all ICs vs GND to make sure that they are powered properly. But if you did 2 already, should not be a problem. Signal existence can be roughly measured with AC model if you don't have other equipment. The danger of this is mostly the probes shorting some pins accidentally.
Best wishes!
TNT:
The tab does look a little funny, but solder will wick to it with no problems. I think the tab itself is made from a tinned copper bar that is stamped, leaving a rather strange looking edge, but still one that gladly accepts solder.
I don't worry too much about getting solder all the way under the part, as that might lead to overheating. Instead, just get enough heat to make sure solder flows well from the tab to the PCB pad at the top, and don't worry about the rest. For a while I was lifting the parts with the iron and then pushing them down with a pair of tweezers before the solder could set to try and get solder to flow better under the part, but this really isn't necessary. The heat transfer to the PCB is far better than the individual dissipation requirements of each part could ever justify, even with a small solder joint.
It's still best to use some flux if you have any, but I've done all my LME49600 joints with standard rosin core solder and no additional flux.
ghellman:
It's really tough to troubleshoot this particular issue from abroad, but I would follow what Neeviour said and start doing a passive resistance measurement of every part possible with the unit powered down. The key here is to measure the resistance of a soldered resistor by putting the meter on two adjacent pads that are electrically connected. As an example, if you want to make sure R13 is correctly soldered (and the correct value) then you would measure with your meter from the input pad (H20) through to the non-GND pad on R14, or to pin 3 of the op-amp. If you measure 1k resistance there, then you can be pretty sure that R13 is correctly soldered and the correct value.
The key is not to measure across the actual resistor pads as this doesn't tell you if you have a cold solder joint. Measuring across adjacent pads will tell you if the part is electrically connected to the pads on the PCB.
If the channel is not working at all (eg. dead silence), then it's either R13, R16, U9 or U10. All the other parts would either not cause an issue, or would cause high levels of DC on the output. Measure the output for DC first (meter set to DC setting, and measure from headphone output to GND) and if you see anything higher than a few mV then there is definitely a problem.
If you don't have DC at the output, and still don't see a signal, it pretty much has to be R13, U9 or U10.
Since the SE-SE shares a common power supply, and one channel works, you can almost be certain that the other channel is getting proper power, so there is little benefit to measuring the DC levels at the op-amp power pins. This only really risks you shorting something out while measuring.
Give the above a try, and let us know what your results are.
Regards,
Owen
The tab does look a little funny, but solder will wick to it with no problems. I think the tab itself is made from a tinned copper bar that is stamped, leaving a rather strange looking edge, but still one that gladly accepts solder.
I don't worry too much about getting solder all the way under the part, as that might lead to overheating. Instead, just get enough heat to make sure solder flows well from the tab to the PCB pad at the top, and don't worry about the rest. For a while I was lifting the parts with the iron and then pushing them down with a pair of tweezers before the solder could set to try and get solder to flow better under the part, but this really isn't necessary. The heat transfer to the PCB is far better than the individual dissipation requirements of each part could ever justify, even with a small solder joint.
It's still best to use some flux if you have any, but I've done all my LME49600 joints with standard rosin core solder and no additional flux.
ghellman:
It's really tough to troubleshoot this particular issue from abroad, but I would follow what Neeviour said and start doing a passive resistance measurement of every part possible with the unit powered down. The key here is to measure the resistance of a soldered resistor by putting the meter on two adjacent pads that are electrically connected. As an example, if you want to make sure R13 is correctly soldered (and the correct value) then you would measure with your meter from the input pad (H20) through to the non-GND pad on R14, or to pin 3 of the op-amp. If you measure 1k resistance there, then you can be pretty sure that R13 is correctly soldered and the correct value.
The key is not to measure across the actual resistor pads as this doesn't tell you if you have a cold solder joint. Measuring across adjacent pads will tell you if the part is electrically connected to the pads on the PCB.
If the channel is not working at all (eg. dead silence), then it's either R13, R16, U9 or U10. All the other parts would either not cause an issue, or would cause high levels of DC on the output. Measure the output for DC first (meter set to DC setting, and measure from headphone output to GND) and if you see anything higher than a few mV then there is definitely a problem.
If you don't have DC at the output, and still don't see a signal, it pretty much has to be R13, U9 or U10.
Since the SE-SE shares a common power supply, and one channel works, you can almost be certain that the other channel is getting proper power, so there is little benefit to measuring the DC levels at the op-amp power pins. This only really risks you shorting something out while measuring.
Give the above a try, and let us know what your results are.
Regards,
Owen
You would only really need heatsinks for the LPUHP if:
1. You're driving a 4 ohm load
2. You're driving an 8 ohm load that requires almost full power
3. You have high ambient temperatures in your house (40C or more)
4. You're running the "overvoltage" mod described by Multisync
Any normal scenario, where you're driving a relatively efficient 8 ohm load at normal listening levels and in normal temperatures (or a case with acceptable airflow) then you probably won't need a heatsink. I would imagine the vast majority of people will fall into this category.
Cheers,
Owen
1. You're driving a 4 ohm load
2. You're driving an 8 ohm load that requires almost full power
3. You have high ambient temperatures in your house (40C or more)
4. You're running the "overvoltage" mod described by Multisync
Any normal scenario, where you're driving a relatively efficient 8 ohm load at normal listening levels and in normal temperatures (or a case with acceptable airflow) then you probably won't need a heatsink. I would imagine the vast majority of people will fall into this category.
Cheers,
Owen
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Owen,
I think TNT has a BAL-BAL and is talking about the heatsinks for it .... sounds like above you're talking about the LPUHP heatsinks.
EDIT: Pretty sure he is talking BAL-BAL now that I see this:
I don't know much about the BAL-BAL heatsinks ... haven't built one yet. From memory they were more for 'comfort' than necessity. Which is why qusp did those silly copper wings that time on his 'low profile' BAL-BAL. But I could be wrong.
Chris