@All
Sorry for late,here comes all DHL tracking number.
all shipment had been done,most of you had already got them.
@Chile,@Russia DHL can't support shipment
there is some strict rule on local custom,so will return payment soon.
View attachment DHL_No_20190313.pdf
Sorry for late,here comes all DHL tracking number.
all shipment had been done,most of you had already got them.
@Chile,@Russia DHL can't support shipment
there is some strict rule on local custom,so will return payment soon.
View attachment DHL_No_20190313.pdf
Please, send another transport company, I am ready to wait.
Maksimov_Russia
EAUMT-0140-2-A_1 board
Maksimov_Russia
EAUMT-0140-2-A_1 board
Last edited:
Hi!
Hi Guys,
A bit of warning here. Check the correct polarity when connecting the SMPS to the amp board with the supplied cable. I didn't... My cable was reversed in color (I know it should be RED + , BLACK -/ground). Hope I didn't manage fry anything. No magic smoke... Yet
After that I have tested the boards with the DSP and Bluetooth module for a brief moment. There is a lack of bass (no lower end whatsoever), hope is just the profile of the Bluetooth settings that broadcasts as a BT headset... Or some settings in the DSP not seeing the BASS pot level and not the reversed power wires from earlier on.
The part that I don't know how to address is that the sound is full of noise. Guess the ribbon wires from the DSP to the amp board are catching a lot of Bluetooth processing action. The sounds get a bit cleaner when I have powered the DSP using an external 5V battery pack and not the 12V source from the ampboard. Is it a lack of grounding or just bad non-shielded cables?! Isn't the output from the DSP to amp balanced?!
Oh, there is a fair amount of coil whine too, guess is from the SMPS. Will that pass in time?!
Other then that, all looks good. Nice soundstage, even on my cheap-old Technics SB-EX3 speakers.
Any tips or HOW to's are welcome
Hi Guys,
A bit of warning here. Check the correct polarity when connecting the SMPS to the amp board with the supplied cable. I didn't... My cable was reversed in color (I know it should be RED + , BLACK -/ground). Hope I didn't manage fry anything. No magic smoke... Yet
After that I have tested the boards with the DSP and Bluetooth module for a brief moment. There is a lack of bass (no lower end whatsoever), hope is just the profile of the Bluetooth settings that broadcasts as a BT headset... Or some settings in the DSP not seeing the BASS pot level and not the reversed power wires from earlier on.
The part that I don't know how to address is that the sound is full of noise. Guess the ribbon wires from the DSP to the amp board are catching a lot of Bluetooth processing action. The sounds get a bit cleaner when I have powered the DSP using an external 5V battery pack and not the 12V source from the ampboard. Is it a lack of grounding or just bad non-shielded cables?! Isn't the output from the DSP to amp balanced?!
Oh, there is a fair amount of coil whine too, guess is from the SMPS. Will that pass in time?!
Other then that, all looks good. Nice soundstage, even on my cheap-old Technics SB-EX3 speakers.
Any tips or HOW to's are welcome
Attachments
Hi Guys,
A bit of warning here. Check the correct polarity when connecting the SMPS to the amp board with the supplied cable. I didn't... My cable was reversed in color (I know it should be RED + , BLACK -/ground). Hope I didn't manage fry anything. No magic smoke... Yet
After that I have tested the boards with the DSP and Bluetooth module for a brief moment. There is a lack of bass (no lower end whatsoever), hope is just the profile of the Bluetooth settings that broadcasts as a BT headset... Or some settings in the DSP not seeing the BASS pot level and not the reversed power wires from earlier on.
The part that I don't know how to address is that the sound is full of noise. Guess the ribbon wires from the DSP to the amp board are catching a lot of Bluetooth processing action. The sounds get a bit cleaner when I have powered the DSP using an external 5V battery pack and not the 12V source from the ampboard. Is it a lack of grounding or just bad non-shielded cables?! Isn't the output from the DSP to amp balanced?!
Oh, there is a fair amount of coil whine too, guess is from the SMPS. Will that pass in time?!
Other then that, all looks good. Nice soundstage, even on my cheap-old Technics SB-EX3 speakers.
Any tips or HOW to's are welcome
Thanks for sharing, please keep us informed on how to resolve these issues.
Since y'all want to see some pictures
here is my TPA3251, modified so it can be mounted onto a backplate of an active speaker.
I exchanged the input caps with flatter ones, removed the screwing terminals, the single/diff-Pin-jumpers and the heatsink.
The heatsink is replaced by a massive copper-bar, the thermal paste is replaced with an U90-Thermal pad for insulation reasons
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
here is my TPA3251, modified so it can be mounted onto a backplate of an active speaker.
I exchanged the input caps with flatter ones, removed the screwing terminals, the single/diff-Pin-jumpers and the heatsink.
The heatsink is replaced by a massive copper-bar, the thermal paste is replaced with an U90-Thermal pad for insulation reasons
Imgur: The magic of the Internet
Hi 3eaudio
Can you use another shipping method? Or please let me change the address to another one in usa pls!
@kday, thanks for the info... I have managed to connect the DSP to the PC but this thing is fairly complicated, for the moment )
@3eaudio, is there a way you can help us with a "clean" DSP file, no filters, just bass, treble and volume for bluetooth module and analog in? That until we get the hang of this Sigma studio DSP stuff.
@audio mo, don't get me wrong, it is good already but will hack it until is gr8!
)@3eaudio, is there a way you can help us with a "clean" DSP file, no filters, just bass, treble and volume for bluetooth module and analog in? That until we get the hang of this Sigma studio DSP stuff.
@audio mo, don't get me wrong, it is good already but will hack it until is gr8!
Yup, I would be interested to get some boards too. I was out of the country for a few weeks in Feb and forgot to place the order before leaving
Does anyone have an old manual or have prior experience on how to wire up the Amp modules?
Did I read it correctly that J2 is used to switch between single-ended(unbalanced RCA) and differential (balanced XLR) inputs? That appears to be the case based on the Figure 1 labeling but there is not section in the current manual on J2. How are others planning to do this? I would like to build an amp that supports both RCA and XLR so it sounds like I am going to need to get SPDT ON-ON switches for each of my channels to run out to the back of the chassis.
I am also curious about the extra pin outs on the 3E Audio board: GND, CLIP_OTW, Fault, and Reset. Are the Clip/OTW and Fault pins typically used to run extra LED warning lights? Also, what is the maximum Vcc that can be applied to a pull-up resistor on those lines? Would it be ok to use the 12V auxiliary voltage? And what is the maximum current going into the open drain? What is the GND pin for?
The manual says that it supports an "Additional Power on/off reset for Pop noise suppression". How can I take advantage of this? Would an additional delay circuit need be tied to ground (active low) and then be opened (hi-z) to allow the amp to turn on?
Finally, I am putting three discrete 480Watt amps in one chassis. Should I consider adding a softstart circuit in front of the 3 3EAudio SMPS? Or do SMPSes typically not need a soft start because they don't employ large capacitors?
Did I read it correctly that J2 is used to switch between single-ended(unbalanced RCA) and differential (balanced XLR) inputs? That appears to be the case based on the Figure 1 labeling but there is not section in the current manual on J2. How are others planning to do this? I would like to build an amp that supports both RCA and XLR so it sounds like I am going to need to get SPDT ON-ON switches for each of my channels to run out to the back of the chassis.
I am also curious about the extra pin outs on the 3E Audio board: GND, CLIP_OTW, Fault, and Reset. Are the Clip/OTW and Fault pins typically used to run extra LED warning lights? Also, what is the maximum Vcc that can be applied to a pull-up resistor on those lines? Would it be ok to use the 12V auxiliary voltage? And what is the maximum current going into the open drain? What is the GND pin for?
The manual says that it supports an "Additional Power on/off reset for Pop noise suppression". How can I take advantage of this? Would an additional delay circuit need be tied to ground (active low) and then be opened (hi-z) to allow the amp to turn on?
Finally, I am putting three discrete 480Watt amps in one chassis. Should I consider adding a softstart circuit in front of the 3 3EAudio SMPS? Or do SMPSes typically not need a soft start because they don't employ large capacitors?
3eaudio
Just wondering why my boards are being shipped by Aramex and not DHL? Package been sitting in HK for a week now.
Hello,
Managed to sort the noisy 12v amp supply for the DSP, thanks to @FogAudio earlier post, made me curious about testing the pins in the SE -> Diff configuration at the input and BAM! it works, no more noise from the BT module! So now working in balaced (XLR-like) config. Clean sound! Nice sound!
Managed to config the dsp to output to DAC0, DAC1 the full sound but no bass and treble adjustments yet, only volume works.
Managed to sort the noisy 12v amp supply for the DSP, thanks to @FogAudio earlier post, made me curious about testing the pins in the SE -> Diff configuration at the input and BAM! it works, no more noise from the BT module! So now working in balaced (XLR-like) config. Clean sound! Nice sound!
Managed to config the dsp to output to DAC0, DAC1 the full sound but no bass and treble adjustments yet, only volume works.
Try "link compile download" button for your edited scheme, and have a look at the right bottom notifier which should say "active: downloaded" when things go right(temporarily flashed the scheme to device). To get to that point you have to install USBi drivers and do stuff, according to how-to on manual @3e-website(where you got the project files from, i guess thats what youve been missing.). If that's all ready and set u have to write project to EPROM when youre done via sigmastudio/hardware config, right-click on the ADAU1701board to apply permanently.
Just got the TPA3251 (EAUMT-0140-2-A) hooked up today - single-ended mode using a 24v Meanwell power supply. It sounds great! Noticeably better than the Ebay TPA3116 I was using before. The new board has no noise to speak of.
Looking forward to implementing a better power supply and getting it all into a nice chassis.
Looking forward to implementing a better power supply and getting it all into a nice chassis.
Clip OTW, FAULT and RESET are directly from pins on the 325x chip (I believe) and intended to be used with LEDs. The TI 325x datasheets will give you the full pin specifications. You can also find example sub-circuit schematics for clip and fault lines in the TI datasheet for their 325x EVM boards.
The reset pin can be GNDed, I did it via a switch and a pull down resistor of 1k I think, copying the example on the EVM schematic. I didn't bother with the error lights personally.
So the GNDed state of the reset line means the amp is powered on but silent. So with just a switch to GND via pulldown resistor, for example, you would engage reset before turning power on and off to eliminate switching transients etc. You could also use this in combination with a delayed power-on relay with the NC (normally closed) contact connecting the reset line to GND.
Certainly a reset/mute switch is easy to do and worth having even if you don't get any more elaborate.
Hello,
Managed to sort the noisy 12v amp supply for the DSP, thanks to @FogAudio earlier post, made me curious about testing the pins in the SE -> Diff configuration at the input and BAM! it works, no more noise from the BT module! So now working in balaced (XLR-like) config. Clean sound! Nice sound!
Managed to config the dsp to output to DAC0, DAC1 the full sound but no bass and treble adjustments yet, only volume works.
Thanks can you please be a little more specific what exactly did you do? Sorry I’m new to this