Hi
My dac already sounds, and it sounds really good. There are still many details to finish and adjustments, but it is an extraordinary sound. Special. Many thanks to Ryan for his work, patience and help, to IanCanada for its magnificent components and to Abbas for Abbas audio for his wonderful output stage. Thanks to them, a neophyte like me has been able to make one of his dreams.
I am very happy.
My dac already sounds, and it sounds really good. There are still many details to finish and adjustments, but it is an extraordinary sound. Special. Many thanks to Ryan for his work, patience and help, to IanCanada for its magnificent components and to Abbas for Abbas audio for his wonderful output stage. Thanks to them, a neophyte like me has been able to make one of his dreams.
I am very happy.
Congratulations Jorge!
What's the USB to I2S board you have there? What clock are you using?
Please make sure you watch the temperatures of the FETs on the Distinction-1541 when you case it up, looks like you have a PCB directly under the DAC, it may need more ventilation. Just something to be aware of, it may be ok as it is.
Ryan
What's the USB to I2S board you have there? What clock are you using?
Please make sure you watch the temperatures of the FETs on the Distinction-1541 when you case it up, looks like you have a PCB directly under the DAC, it may need more ventilation. Just something to be aware of, it may be ok as it is.
Ryan
anyone has a original tda1541a chip to sell??? i need a chip too.
I have a R1 version you are welcome to have until you get something better. My gift to you. PM your address and I will send. Just make small donation to DIY Audio maybe?
Great stuff. Congratulations. Now wait 3 years before you get it into enclosure
Be proud. You made it. Enjoy the music.
Hi Ryan!
I do not use USB to i2s as main player (if I will use as secondary player amanero usb / i2s). The reproduction by usb has several and big problems: it is very conditioned by the quality of the usb (computer) player by its power supply, its clocks, the sata cables (yes, the sata cables, it is not a joke), the dissipation, the noise of the dissipation), the length of the signals, and if we talk about software is another story even more complicated (I think I've used all the software that exists). My experience is that a raspberry pi with a good reclocker, galvanic isolation and power supply is much better source for i2s than the best non-dedicated PCs, so I do not use the usb steamer but raspberry pi i2s. I think it's the best solution for a i2s dac if you use a fifo reclocker and galvanic isolation. The key is the short signals, a PC with few processes and low consumption, together with the best operating system to play audio, Linux. Four years ago I made a wonderful PC for audio: linear feed (hdplex), passive refrigeration in box (hdplex) energy saving processor, sata cables by Paul Pang, cpu clock Paul Pang, usb pcb Paul pang. A marvel of more than 3000 euros, plus a dac dual buffalo of another 4000 euros. For 7000 euros you had a world class system capable of competing with the best. My economic situation is not as good as before and I had to sell that system, and make another one cheaper. For 2000 euros, I have streamer and dac and a very good sound, in some things superior to that system.
I have used two Crystek watches CCHD-957-25.
The problem of the heat of the pcb will have it in question, it is only an interim solution.
Best regards.
Hi Jorge,
I've not yet tried a Raspberry Pi I2S, but with all the good things being said about it I may have to give it a go.
Have you tried one of the USB regens from Uptone Audio? I'm using this one at the moment:USB REGEN – UpTone Audio
I was very surprised by how much it improved things, particularly with the accuracy of the bass. They also have a better one which apparently improves things further, but its much more expensive. From these observed effects it has on the sound, I think you could say that it does take away some of the negative impacts that a USB source may have on the SQ. Definitely worth looking into if your using a USB source.
It's amazing how much the usb signal is affected by all these things (including the USB cables) despite the use of the FIFO, digital isolators, re-clocking further down the chain- I was under the impression that these things were supposed to make the signal immune from the source, but it doesn't seem to be the case, at least not as much as I thought it would have.
Ryan
Hi Ryan.
I have not tried that in particular, but I have tried other products similar and better, and cables under 2000 euros, and Jcat PCI with Femto clock, or the aforementioned Paul Pang Pci Usb. In my experience the best way to suppress the jitter of USB is to use an external reclocker, Mutec, by quality brand Price:
Https://www.mutec-net.com/downloads/manuals/MUTEC_MC-3plusUSB_-_HFN.pdf.
I have a lot of experience with high level hifi, and I have spent two years experimenting i2s DACs (especially Allo) and with a good power offers a surprising result for its price. I have compared dacs very expensive and famous (eg Chord Hugo and Chord TT) with Allo Kali (reclocker) allo Piano Dac 2.1 for Rapsberry Pi, with linear power and good connectors and the I2S solution is closer to analogue sound than the most expensive solutions , in addition to getting, in that case, a great scene and depth. Chord Solutions only surpass this DAC (Llamemosle "Jazz I " hahahaha) in detail. This has taught me that more important than the DAC is the source (many years ago I think that), that the I2S is better interface than the USB, that the signals the shorter the better for jitter, this is as important as the reclocker.
In addition you will save a lot of money with your source with the Rapsberry Pi solution. If I can help something with Rapsberry here I am.
Best regards
I have not tried that in particular, but I have tried other products similar and better, and cables under 2000 euros, and Jcat PCI with Femto clock, or the aforementioned Paul Pang Pci Usb. In my experience the best way to suppress the jitter of USB is to use an external reclocker, Mutec, by quality brand Price:
Https://www.mutec-net.com/downloads/manuals/MUTEC_MC-3plusUSB_-_HFN.pdf.
I have a lot of experience with high level hifi, and I have spent two years experimenting i2s DACs (especially Allo) and with a good power offers a surprising result for its price. I have compared dacs very expensive and famous (eg Chord Hugo and Chord TT) with Allo Kali (reclocker) allo Piano Dac 2.1 for Rapsberry Pi, with linear power and good connectors and the I2S solution is closer to analogue sound than the most expensive solutions , in addition to getting, in that case, a great scene and depth. Chord Solutions only surpass this DAC (Llamemosle "Jazz I " hahahaha) in detail. This has taught me that more important than the DAC is the source (many years ago I think that), that the I2S is better interface than the USB, that the signals the shorter the better for jitter, this is as important as the reclocker.
In addition you will save a lot of money with your source with the Rapsberry Pi solution. If I can help something with Rapsberry here I am.
Best regards
Hi Jorge,
You've certainly gone down the rabbit hole a lot deeper than I when it comes to chasing the perfect sound. Thanks for offering to help with a Raspberry Pi setup, I will definitely give this more thought some time soon. The way I'm going it will be another 3 year before I case up my DAC. lol.
Anyway, I'm very grateful that my humble PCB has made a place in your system, I hope it gives you many hours of listening pleasure.
All the best.
Ryan
You've certainly gone down the rabbit hole a lot deeper than I when it comes to chasing the perfect sound. Thanks for offering to help with a Raspberry Pi setup, I will definitely give this more thought some time soon. The way I'm going it will be another 3 year before I case up my DAC. lol.
Anyway, I'm very grateful that my humble PCB has made a place in your system, I hope it gives you many hours of listening pleasure.
All the best.
Ryan
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Hi.
Yesterday I tried out my dac/streamer in the great system of a friend (dynaudio confidence c4 and two power amp Restek Extract). My friend Toni is used to hearing vinyl, he has a great tourntable. I wanted to know if my dac sounded in a great system as well as mine and if another pleople with a good ear sounded as good as me or I was influenced by my creation.
It was even more exciting than the first time it rang. We had before us the analog sound of a turntable but with the advantages of a streamer. The sound was very exciting, I had never heard an equal realism and transparency, only live and if the acoustics were good. Although the output soundstage of tubes the dynamics was wonderful. The only point that was not perfect is the subbass, it does not have the punch necessary for electronic music, but it's not my type of music: my dac is designed for jazz music, vocal music and classical music, and here I have not heard anything similar to any price, only turntables of more than $ 20,000.
Yesterday was the happiest day of my 35 years on hifi (I am 50 years old) and I can not believe that I was the one who designed this marvel.
Thank you very much Ryan, thank you very much IanCanada, thank you very much Abbas, thank you very much Volumio team, thank you very much Antonio, Fernando, Toni, Jose Miguel.
Best regards.
Jorge
Yesterday I tried out my dac/streamer in the great system of a friend (dynaudio confidence c4 and two power amp Restek Extract). My friend Toni is used to hearing vinyl, he has a great tourntable. I wanted to know if my dac sounded in a great system as well as mine and if another pleople with a good ear sounded as good as me or I was influenced by my creation.
It was even more exciting than the first time it rang. We had before us the analog sound of a turntable but with the advantages of a streamer. The sound was very exciting, I had never heard an equal realism and transparency, only live and if the acoustics were good. Although the output soundstage of tubes the dynamics was wonderful. The only point that was not perfect is the subbass, it does not have the punch necessary for electronic music, but it's not my type of music: my dac is designed for jazz music, vocal music and classical music, and here I have not heard anything similar to any price, only turntables of more than $ 20,000.
Yesterday was the happiest day of my 35 years on hifi (I am 50 years old) and I can not believe that I was the one who designed this marvel.
Thank you very much Ryan, thank you very much IanCanada, thank you very much Abbas, thank you very much Volumio team, thank you very much Antonio, Fernando, Toni, Jose Miguel.
Best regards.
Jorge
Thanks for sharing your testimony Jorge, im glad you were able to put together a system the gives you the sound you were after, and maybe even exceeding expectations. A big credit to you.
Just goes to show that our diy efforts are all for a good cause -great sound for a great price, all it takes a little bit of extra effort and knowhow but well worth it. Not that the extra effort is at all painstaking, its a very enjoyable and rewarding experience to put together your own system and then hearing the result of your creation.
Well done.
Ryan
Just goes to show that our diy efforts are all for a good cause -great sound for a great price, all it takes a little bit of extra effort and knowhow but well worth it. Not that the extra effort is at all painstaking, its a very enjoyable and rewarding experience to put together your own system and then hearing the result of your creation.
Well done.
Ryan
Hi.
I have been experimenting with several input devices for the pcb 1541.
It is indisputable that Iancanada i2stopcmboard is essential. I have tried these three things that work well with i2stopcmboard.
A) Fifo and dualxo from Iancada connected to rapsberry pi by i2s. Without a doubt it is the best option, especially with good cloks and if we use the U.FL.
B) USB AMANERO. The one used in two ways, with Fifo and dualxo of Iancanada in a way that uses the dualxo clocks, or using Amanero's own reclocker. Much better with Ian's pcb, but it's also an expensive solution. Using Amanero alone is very economical, only $ 70. In this case it is highly recommended to use LDO feed for Amanero. Usb is for me the worst communication system with the dac compared to spdif and especially i2s. Anyway with fifo and dualxo of Ian is very good, so it is very possible that a plate with these concepts is a great solution.
C) ALLO KALI. I'm a fan of Allo products, I think there's no better sound for that price, but I have not considered using Allo Kali as a reclocker because I want to use better clocks. I have not used Kali until I have had a problem with Ian's fifo. The result has been surprisingly good, almost as good as Ian's pcb's, but Ian's pcb and good Crystek clocks are $ 300 and Kali are $ 70.
Something very surprising that I have experienced is that there is a critical component in this system, it is easy to think that they can be clocks or low noise feeding, but it has been surprising that only the jitter with Kali has disappeared (at least the one I can perceive ) When I have used U.FL cables, I recommend that you use what you use as a reader connected to i2spcmboard by U.FL.
More and more in love with this great sound. Has anyone else finished your project?
Regards
I have been experimenting with several input devices for the pcb 1541.
It is indisputable that Iancanada i2stopcmboard is essential. I have tried these three things that work well with i2stopcmboard.
A) Fifo and dualxo from Iancada connected to rapsberry pi by i2s. Without a doubt it is the best option, especially with good cloks and if we use the U.FL.
B) USB AMANERO. The one used in two ways, with Fifo and dualxo of Iancanada in a way that uses the dualxo clocks, or using Amanero's own reclocker. Much better with Ian's pcb, but it's also an expensive solution. Using Amanero alone is very economical, only $ 70. In this case it is highly recommended to use LDO feed for Amanero. Usb is for me the worst communication system with the dac compared to spdif and especially i2s. Anyway with fifo and dualxo of Ian is very good, so it is very possible that a plate with these concepts is a great solution.
C) ALLO KALI. I'm a fan of Allo products, I think there's no better sound for that price, but I have not considered using Allo Kali as a reclocker because I want to use better clocks. I have not used Kali until I have had a problem with Ian's fifo. The result has been surprisingly good, almost as good as Ian's pcb's, but Ian's pcb and good Crystek clocks are $ 300 and Kali are $ 70.
Something very surprising that I have experienced is that there is a critical component in this system, it is easy to think that they can be clocks or low noise feeding, but it has been surprising that only the jitter with Kali has disappeared (at least the one I can perceive ) When I have used U.FL cables, I recommend that you use what you use as a reader connected to i2spcmboard by U.FL.
More and more in love with this great sound. Has anyone else finished your project?
Regards
clock options
Jjazz
I can add a couple of thoughts on input options for I2S. For reference, I still use Ryan's V1. Will build out V2 in a future build, but I2S options would apply equally.
I have had great results with following chain. BBB to Acko S03 isolator/reclocker to Ian's I2StoPCM to Ryan's 1541a board. Point being the Acko S03 is an option to substitute for Ian's FIFO rig.
WRT oscillator costs, I currently use NDK NZ2520SD clocks which were available @ DIYINHK for $8.00 usd. They were comparable to the Crystek option but at much lower price. Acko used these on his S03 but could be equally effective on Ian's FIFO.
In the past year NDK upgraded their product to the NDK NZ2520SDA. It has around -12dB lower phase noise. Check out Lucian's group buy thread for user experiences using these new clocks. In these user testimonials they are referring to the impact of upgrading the clock on Lucian's very fine WaveIO. Extreamboky has a really good review. He cites one of those need to re listen to music library moments. Point is the impact should be same or greater using NDK SDA on the S03 or FIFO or Twisted Pair Hermes. I just yesterday received a pair of these new clocks from Lucian and will report in the next few weeks my comparative results. I expect another quantum leap. Most people seem to believe these clocks are superior to the Crystek. If Lucian's GB is closed, it is useful to note these are also available at DIYINHK.
Sorry for long post perhaps off topic to Ryan's GB thread. I am a Ryan fan and always keen to see people like you get the most out of his fine work.
Feel free to PM if you have questions.
Jjazz
I can add a couple of thoughts on input options for I2S. For reference, I still use Ryan's V1. Will build out V2 in a future build, but I2S options would apply equally.
I have had great results with following chain. BBB to Acko S03 isolator/reclocker to Ian's I2StoPCM to Ryan's 1541a board. Point being the Acko S03 is an option to substitute for Ian's FIFO rig.
WRT oscillator costs, I currently use NDK NZ2520SD clocks which were available @ DIYINHK for $8.00 usd. They were comparable to the Crystek option but at much lower price. Acko used these on his S03 but could be equally effective on Ian's FIFO.
In the past year NDK upgraded their product to the NDK NZ2520SDA. It has around -12dB lower phase noise. Check out Lucian's group buy thread for user experiences using these new clocks. In these user testimonials they are referring to the impact of upgrading the clock on Lucian's very fine WaveIO. Extreamboky has a really good review. He cites one of those need to re listen to music library moments. Point is the impact should be same or greater using NDK SDA on the S03 or FIFO or Twisted Pair Hermes. I just yesterday received a pair of these new clocks from Lucian and will report in the next few weeks my comparative results. I expect another quantum leap. Most people seem to believe these clocks are superior to the Crystek. If Lucian's GB is closed, it is useful to note these are also available at DIYINHK.
Sorry for long post perhaps off topic to Ryan's GB thread. I am a Ryan fan and always keen to see people like you get the most out of his fine work.
Feel free to PM if you have questions.
Hi Walter and Jorge,
Looks like you two are of the very few who have reported using my PCBs, im sure there must be more out there with around 200 pcbs scattered around the world.
Yeah Ians I2S to PCM pcb gives great results, a total game changer.
Let me know how you go with those new NDK clocks Walter, i've been having a play around with some of Andreas clock boards lately.
I'm not sure this is the best place for a discussion as it was only intended a list thread, not that im bothered by it, just not many people viewing I think. Jorge, It might be best if you ask your questions and enquieries over here.
Ryan
Looks like you two are of the very few who have reported using my PCBs, im sure there must be more out there with around 200 pcbs scattered around the world.
Yeah Ians I2S to PCM pcb gives great results, a total game changer.
Let me know how you go with those new NDK clocks Walter, i've been having a play around with some of Andreas clock boards lately.
I'm not sure this is the best place for a discussion as it was only intended a list thread, not that im bothered by it, just not many people viewing I think. Jorge, It might be best if you ask your questions and enquieries over here.
Ryan
Hi wlowes:
isancadana rasppi i2 output solution very complex, can you describe how use raspi connect to ryan'c 1541 board, thanks
isancadana rasppi i2 output solution very complex, can you describe how use raspi connect to ryan'c 1541 board, thanks
Recently got Trafo and BOM for Psu so stay tuned (just got to make time/priority)
For me output will be either DC1 or Sen but getting my head around CCS at the moment (but may just use Lampizator that is in my current DAC for the meantime so as just to get started)
Input will be basic - spdif using CS8412 etc. Until I can get my head around IanCanada I2S etc. And the buy it.
Hello all,
just to report that Iancanada i2stopcmboard works also with hifiberry digi + pro i2s out.
i tested on a pcm1702 da and it works.
When when i have all power supplies i will connect to 1541 distinction v2.
hifiberry digi + pro i2s out + Iancanada i2stopcmboard is also a cheap solution...
just to report that Iancanada i2stopcmboard works also with hifiberry digi + pro i2s out.
i tested on a pcm1702 da and it works.
When when i have all power supplies i will connect to 1541 distinction v2.
hifiberry digi + pro i2s out + Iancanada i2stopcmboard is also a cheap solution...
Sure, happy to...
BTW, there is a build log going into some detail at my blog.. diyAudio - wlowes
While it evolved over time, I use Linux processor (BBB) running distribution by Meirio producing I2S. I use an Acko supplied cape on the BBB to Acko S03 isolation / reclocker to IanCanada I2StoPCM board to Ryan's Distinction V1 board. This feeds a Lampizator buffer running 6n2p tubes. The blog outlines various approaches and tweaks that resulted IMHO a top notch result. In general it came down to extreme attention to power supply at every turn, good clocking, and isolation from vibration and noise. The music is stored on a NAS and the whole thing is controlled from my Android phone.
The signal coming from the front end is preserved in the rest of the audio chain. Volume control is a fine autoformer by Dave Slaggle. The amps are 110w OTL tube amps using 6c33c tubes. All of this lets Ryan's Distinction board shine. Lot's of micro detail. Kind of natural in the room experience.
I think the biggest challenge in these BBB or RPi processors is learning enough Linux to load the software, configure it and make the network connections. This part is not for the faint of heart. The result is very good sound at relatively low cost, but it can be daunting.
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