• These commercial threads are for private transactions. diyAudio.com provides these forums for the convenience of our members, but makes no warranty nor assumes any responsibility. We do not vet any members, use of this facility is at your own risk. Customers can post any issues in those threads as long as it is done in a civil manner. All diyAudio rules about conduct apply and will be enforced.

GB for ArDAM Lite bare PCBs

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
Just curious if this board would work with the Noritake CU16025-UW6J via SPI or is it OLED display only? I also have a CU16025ECPB-W1J, but it appears to take parallel comms only, not serial. So I doubt it'd work.

Also, would it work with Normundss' DAM 1021 Input board with both RPi and Amanero?

If so, I'd like to buy one if available.
 
Hello everyone,

I'm in the planning phase of a DAM1021 project and I'd love to use this board. I've used Arduino for some basic firmware flashing. Never coding. My project has some similar objectives and a few that are different. I'll show the similarities and differences and hopefully others can chime in to let me know if I'm on the right path.

Similarities:
• Want the control over the DAM1021 that this unit (hardware and software) provides.
• Galvanic isolation between Arduino and DAM1021
• General easy way to connect everything.

Differences:
• Want to use Noritake CU16025ECPB-W1J parallel only device as display vs. OLED.
• Want to interface with Normundss' Input board and Control board v2.3 (USB is primary is2 input; RPi is secondary i2s input)

I know I can use the RPi as my microcontroller, but I feel like it might be easier to deal with Arduino as a first time coder vs. Python, etc. on a Pi.

I'm thinking that some code will have to be modified to make it work with the Noritake. I'd like to use the Noritake in 4Bit mode to use less wires vs. 8Bit mode. M68 protocol vs. i80. So I'm thinking I'd just have to merge some code for the Noritake and take out the OLED code. Also, can the Arduino digital pins be told to do anything? In my basic research, it looks like the connectivity as per this board/OLED is different than what is used for a LCD/VFD, etc. I'm assuming I can make it work if I can remap pins.

Also, if I'm using Normundss' control board for input selection and volume, would this conflict with an IR remote? If it does, then I'd just prefer to use the IR remote. In the event, that both work together I wouldn't wire up the Normundss' control board LEDs and just use the input selection and volume knobs.

Finally, if this is not the right solution for me, please point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
Mull3t
 
Last edited:
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.