Why SMD???Why High Heels??
Hi,
I would only use SMD if the part is only available in SMD or there is a very solid reason for SMD, using the utmost care not to overheat the part.
What most DIYers don't seem to know is that you can damage a small SMD part by the thermal shock of your soldering iron.
The datasheet f.a. for the MMBF-J309LT1 mentions among seven other soldering precaution hints: "Soldering a device without preheating can cause excessive thermal shock and stress which can result in damage to the device". MMBF-J309LT1 is the SMD version of the J309 JFET. (They like complicated partnumbers at Onsemi).
Per-Anders you still think SMD is "cool"?
Most appropiate that term COOL.
BTW my mother calls me just Elso.
Have a nice day.
Hi,
I would only use SMD if the part is only available in SMD or there is a very solid reason for SMD, using the utmost care not to overheat the part.
What most DIYers don't seem to know is that you can damage a small SMD part by the thermal shock of your soldering iron.
The datasheet f.a. for the MMBF-J309LT1 mentions among seven other soldering precaution hints: "Soldering a device without preheating can cause excessive thermal shock and stress which can result in damage to the device". MMBF-J309LT1 is the SMD version of the J309 JFET. (They like complicated partnumbers at Onsemi).
Per-Anders you still think SMD is "cool"?
Most appropiate that term COOL.BTW my mother calls me just Elso.
Have a nice day.
Elso, I have stated the reason for SMD, for I don't know how many times. It's a free world. Those who want to try this SMD pcb do so and the rest may choose ALW's instead.
SMD should be soldered by a machine, I totallt agree but this isn't any critical application if we talk lifetime and guaranteed function.
SMD should be soldered by a machine, I totallt agree but this isn't any critical application if we talk lifetime and guaranteed function.
SMD
Hi Per-Anders,
I hope you don't get the boards back with fried transistors. Repairing SMD is even more of a pain ........
ALW is using different parts and schematic as far as I know.
Off topic: still looking at my postbox for "clock papers"...................................................zzzzz....
peranders said:
Hi Per-Anders,
I hope you don't get the boards back with fried transistors. Repairing SMD is even more of a pain ........
ALW is using different parts and schematic as far as I know.
Off topic: still looking at my postbox for "clock papers"...................................................
zzzzz....
If you have two sldering irons it's real easy to remove SMD parts, no trouble at all. It seems to me that you aren't used to SMD, Elso. You seem to fear it. Elso you have to pratice SMD more. If you work in the industry, hole mounted parts are decreasing and SMD increasing.
The output transistors BCP56/53 is not so hard to destroy so I see no problems here. Why create a problem when there isn't any?
..... I haven't forgot about the clock papers...
The output transistors BCP56/53 is not so hard to destroy so I see no problems here. Why create a problem when there isn't any?
..... I haven't forgot about the clock papers...
No fear of SMD
Hello Per,
I don't have fear for SMD!. The KWAK-CLOCK-8 will have several SMD parts. I also don't have to practice it as I learned at work to solder and desolder 80 pins SMD IC's. Even made a post about that:
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=50594&highlight=elso+smt&r=&session=
My point is that you have to work very carefully and not to overheat the part. Even with through hole it is possible to destroy the part with too long soldering and a high wattage iron. Been there done that. Actually not me, but the shop that repaired my SAE1B. LED's also seem to be very sensitive for heat.
I know very well why the industry is moving towards SMD. Can't imagine a cell phone without it.....
As you said yourselves SMD is made for machine insertion not for hand soldering. The boards you sell in the group buy are these handsoldered by you or made by that ingenious robot machine?
Or is it your intention that the lucky buyer does it him/herselve (DIY). In the latter case be prepared for disaster. I have seen may PCB's seen destroyed or freed from tiny tracks by bad desoldering at work. Then our most handy man had to repair tracks with one tiny thread of copper wire and mount the IC again. In one word a HORROR!
PCB material is different in holding traces. Especially Philips and also Sony loose that track the moment you point at it. Akai and Pioneer was slightly better. I am lucky the boards I am using are not very sensitive for peeling off copper but when maltreated they all faill except that cute material that seems the tracks have embedded somehow.
Looking forward to the papers. I appreciate the gesture.
peranders said:
Hello Per,
I don't have fear for SMD!. The KWAK-CLOCK-8 will have several SMD parts. I also don't have to practice it as I learned at work to solder and desolder 80 pins SMD IC's. Even made a post about that:
http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=tweaks&n=50594&highlight=elso+smt&r=&session=
My point is that you have to work very carefully and not to overheat the part. Even with through hole it is possible to destroy the part with too long soldering and a high wattage iron. Been there done that. Actually not me, but the shop that repaired my SAE1B. LED's also seem to be very sensitive for heat.
I know very well why the industry is moving towards SMD. Can't imagine a cell phone without it.....
As you said yourselves SMD is made for machine insertion not for hand soldering. The boards you sell in the group buy are these handsoldered by you or made by that ingenious robot machine?
Or is it your intention that the lucky buyer does it him/herselve (DIY). In the latter case be prepared for disaster. I have seen may PCB's seen destroyed or freed from tiny tracks by bad desoldering at work. Then our most handy man had to repair tracks with one tiny thread of copper wire and mount the IC again. In one word a HORROR!
PCB material is different in holding traces. Especially Philips and also Sony loose that track the moment you point at it. Akai and Pioneer was slightly better. I am lucky the boards I am using are not very sensitive for peeling off copper but when maltreated they all faill except that cute material that seems the tracks have embedded somehow.
Looking forward to the papers. I appreciate the gesture.
Elso, if you look at the wiki page you'll see that only one person is interested in ready made units, hardly market for ordering readymade units. 
I assume that everybody has a temperature controlled soldering iron => no problem with overheating. I have myself never had any problems with that.
I assume that everybody has a temperature controlled soldering iron => no problem with overheating. I have myself never had any problems with that.
Good Luck
Hi Per,
I wish you and all the guys/gills who are going to stuff the boards good luck!
peranders said:Elso, if you look at the wiki page you'll see that only one person is interested in ready made units, hardly market for ordering readymade units.
I assume that everybody has a temperature controlled soldering iron => no problem with overheating. I have myself never had any problems with that.
Hi Per,
I wish you and all the guys/gills who are going to stuff the boards good luck!
-----------------------------------------------------------------peranders said:
This is the bit which confuses me. Are you saying
pa(at)mbox331.tele2.se which doesn't work but seems right EDIT removed @ by P-A
or
pa at mbox331.tele2@se which doesn't seem right.
Please just give in plain terms address with no bits to remove or replace.
I don't want to pay the wrong person!
hi, I don't know if this will help at all, but it is a problem I encountered when I joined paypal a few years back. If you are trying to send a pyment to Per straight from a credit card, he will have to have set up what I think is called a premium account (thid doesn't cost any extra initialy, but allows them to include the charges for credit card payments rather than people sending money already in their paypal account). If he doesn't have this and you do try and send money straight from a card rather than money already in your paypal account it will be refused, so this may be one thing to check for with the payments.
Anyway, hope this was of some use rather than just clogging up you thread,
andrew.
Anyway, hope this was of some use rather than just clogging up you thread,
andrew.
Hi Per,
Thinking of getting some of these but have questions as im new to diy audio ...
1. Do I get a pair, my XOver uses +/- 15V and ground so that means i need two of these one for + and one for -
2. They are DC in presumably, so that means i need something like a +24V in for one and a -24V for the other board.
3. How easy are parts to get, as im new to this i struggle.
4. How many gainclone boards do you have ? I think they are stereo, i might take one or two of them from you too. How is there performance, as good as others or better . And what about parts for them too ?
Hope the questions arent too silly!
Thanks,
Brian
Thinking of getting some of these but have questions as im new to diy audio ...
1. Do I get a pair, my XOver uses +/- 15V and ground so that means i need two of these one for + and one for -
2. They are DC in presumably, so that means i need something like a +24V in for one and a -24V for the other board.
3. How easy are parts to get, as im new to this i struggle.
4. How many gainclone boards do you have ? I think they are stereo, i might take one or two of them from you too. How is there performance, as good as others or better
. And what about parts for them too ?Hope the questions arent too silly!
Thanks,
Brian
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