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Gb: F5 Pcb

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cviller,

FINALLY got my boards! Thanks for your work on the layout and a BIG thanks to Mr. Pass for his fine work and sharing with the DIY community.

Due to being a Papa myself with two very little ones, I have to take the slow ride on this build. But this will fulfill a wish that has spanned 20 years to have one of Nelson's products sitting in my living room. It seems like yesterday that I was in college and reading Stereophile and amps designed by Nelson Pass.

A word of caution - take a close look at your boards. I noticed a nick at the through-hole for T3 with some bare copper exposed. A bit of solder will take care of it just fine.
 
sonidos said:
cviller,

FINALLY got my boards! Thanks for your work on the layout and a BIG thanks to Mr. Pass for his fine work and sharing with the DIY community.

Due to being a Papa myself with two very little ones, I have to take the slow ride on this build. But this will fulfill a wish that has spanned 20 years to have one of Nelson's products sitting in my living room. It seems like yesterday that I was in college and reading Stereophile and amps designed by Nelson Pass.

A word of caution - take a close look at your boards. I noticed a nick at the through-hole for T3 with some bare copper exposed. A bit of solder will take care of it just fine.


I'm glad you finally got your boards. I know I get get anxiety when I'm waiting for an electronic toy. Upon examining the boards I noticed cviller, like Nelson Pass doesn't use vias so one can easily fix a problem with a thru hole.

When I was in college, in 1979, a guy in the class ahead of me brought in some printed material for a Threshold preamp and amplifier. We were drooling over the stuff we couldn never afford back in those days. I mean we had to hitchhike to school.

I studied electronics technology. Because I loved music and electronics, I couldn't figure out how come the professor wasn't interested showing us about audio amplifiers. So I read boooks.

It wasn't until the early 90's when I got to work with an engineer who designed audio equipment. From him I got a pretty good understanding of how audio amplifiers work. Transistor circuit theory suddenly became much easier for me than the boring stuff in the text books.

I am grateful for this forum, for Nelson's generosity and the people who have the patience and realize some of us don't catch on as fast as others and don't mind answering questions.
 
Hi cviller,

I received these nice boards yesterday. Thanks for your great service to the fellow members and thanks again for our beloved the only one - Mr. Nelson Pass for allowing his designs for Diy purposes. BTW, anyone had the link to group buys for heatsinks for F5?

Thanks,
Routhun
 
Christian,

Thanks for delivery at the speed of light...

I'd barely left home monday for a week of business when your boards arrived.
You "made my weekend" - into a nice soldering & tinkering, staying inside one that is :D

Hopefully this F5 (I am going to call it "blue" as hommage to your nice boards) will stay with me longer than the first one I p2p'd
... that one is still "on loan" with a friend :devilr:

BTW: I will disassemble my Aleph-J for the new F5, use it's PS.
Anybody else agree with me that the F5 is indeed superior ???
 
sources for transformer, heat sinks, enclosure

Hello everybody!

My boards came in last week (thanks!) and I've ordered the components from Mouser and Digikey. I should be stuffing and soldering by the end of the week.

I've tried to read through all of the posts, but I'm not able to locate a definitive source for the transformer and heat sinks.

Also, some guidance on what and where to purchase the pieces for the enclosure would be appreciated.

Thanks to any and all who can provide this information. A donation will be made to the site in honor of being able to obtain these items.
 
The transformer should be 2x 18V and with a rating of at least 300VA for at stereo amp. But you have to be aware that these ratings can be conservative or optimistic - just like amp watt ratings. Go for a good brand or a reliable source.

Regarding the heatsinks you have to have a lot of heat sink. The rating is "increased temperature in Celsius" per watt, so you'll need 0.5 or lower per channel in order to burn the ~50W without raising the temperature too much. Have a look at this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1731799#post1731799

In my opinion this is very close to the optimal enclosure/heatsink you can make. You can buy similar readymade - in europe we have www.hifi2000.it, but I guess you can find something in the states as well.
 
cviller said:
The transformer should be 2x 18V and with a rating of at least 300VA for at stereo amp. But you have to be aware that these ratings can be conservative or optimistic - just like amp watt ratings. Go for a good brand or a reliable source.

Regarding the heatsinks you have to have a lot of heat sink. The rating is "increased temperature in Celsius" per watt, so you'll need 0.5 or lower per channel in order to burn the ~50W without raising the temperature too much. Have a look at this:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1731799#post1731799

In my opinion this is very close to the optimal enclosure/heatsink you can make. You can buy similar readymade - in europe we have www.hifi2000.it, but I guess you can find something in the states as well.
I used Conrad MF35-151.5 heatsinks and they worked very well. The transformer is an Antek AN-4218 (400VA 18-0-18) from www.antekinc.com for $37 plus $10 shipping. My "enclosure" is just a 12 x 5.75" 1/8" sheet of 5051 aluminum for the back, 12" x 13 3/4" for the bottom and top, which is perforated steel. I used 4 pieces of 1/2 x 3/4" aluminum bar stock attached to the heatshinks to attach top, back, bottom, and faceplate which is 16x6" 0.25" 5051 aluminum plate attached some 4" pieces of 3/4 x 3/4 angle stock. The back attaches to those bars with 4 screws. I finished all of it with hand files, 3 grades of Scotchbrite pads, and a bit of elbow grease. All that cost me less than $50 at the local store, cut to my dimensions (less heatsinks). The hardest part is all of the tapping(!!!), not my forte for sure. I only broke one this time out of impatience.
 
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