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I have 4 Aurasound NS10-794-4a woofers. I am going to build 4 passive sealed subs powered by either Cinepro 2k6mk3 (6x600W/4ohm) or if I need more power Cinepro 3k6mk3 (6x800w/4ohm). Both can be bridged. I would like to stick to 2k6 as its 2 channels are driving Abbeys now and I want the remaining 4 channels to be used with the woofers. I hope it is fine as I dont want to change woofers at this moment. It took a lot of effort to find and get them to Poland.

http://www.quint-audio.com/qaudio/files/ns10-794-4a.pdf

The point is I have 20m2 at my disposal so I have to build as small subs as possible. Otherwise I will get divorced.
 
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I have 4 Aurasound NS10-794-4a woofers. I am going to build 4 passive sealed subs powered by either Cinepro 2k6mk3 (6x600W/4ohm) or if I need more power Cinepro 3k6mk3 (6x800w/4ohm). Both can be bridged. I would like to stick to 2k6 as its 2 channels are driving Abbeys now and I want the remaining 4 channels to be used with the woofers. I hope it is fine as I dont want to change woofers at this moment. It took a lot of effort to find and get them to Poland.

http://www.quint-audio.com/qaudio/files/ns10-794-4a.pdf

The point is I have 20m2 at my disposal so I have to build as small subs as possible. Otherwise I will get divorced.

The smaller amp will be plenty of power for those wonderful woofers. If you need more bass, you'll need more efficient woofers in bigger boxes, not more power. The Achilles' heel of the Aurasound woofers is that the short underhung voicecoil* can't take as much power as an overhung coil. (Also, some of them had dodgy plating on the radial neo magnets.) They're beautiful pieces, though, and I know of nothing else with that much throw that can play so smoothly well above a sub's nominal bandwidth. The JBL WGTi "car" woofers are close on both counts, and can handle a lot more power. But the dust caps are just so ugly.

FWIW, I ran my NS10-794-4A (used as an "above the centerline" sub in a Geddes-style setup with an NS15 in the front corner and three NS12's on the floor) in an 18L closed box. Really strong motor on those woofers.

*Consider the difference between the Aurasound NS15-992-4A and the old JBL "SUB1500" that was in the original Revel Ultima sub. Both have 4" diameter voicecoils and model nearly identically down low. (The NS15 can play cleanly about 2 octaves higher.) The NS15 has a longer throw. However, the NS15's underhung voicecoil is about an inch long (~25mm). The SUB1500's overhung coil is nearly 20mm longer, which means it has that much more copper to dissipate heat and that much more surface area to use for heat dissipation.
 
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I have to check it. We have diffrent listening rooms here in Europe. Usually much smaller, with concrete walls. People tend to have one sub only while I will have four. And I dont listen to music at high level. I didnt know what to choose to set them up so finally I have an older BSS 9088ii and Minidsp coming to Poland and I will borrow a DCX2496. That way I will check what is the easiest way and sell the remaining equipment.

At some point I was thinking about JBL WGTI and I would buy it if I didnt find Auras at good price. I am not so experienced as you are but I read and learn a lot from this and similar forums. So thank you guys for all your answers.
 
I have to check it. We have diffrent listening rooms here in Europe. Usually much smaller, with concrete walls. People tend to have one sub only while I will have four.***

To be clear, I think you'll have more than enough output and extension for most reasonable uses with those four woofers in 15-20L closed boxes. And enough headroom to do whatever EQing you need to do, too.

The real point of my earlier post was that your six-channel amp will be fine for both the Abbeys and the 4 NS10's. More power won't give you any benefit. (Never mind that going from 600W to 800W even in ideal conditions is barely more than a 1dB level increase.)
 
I have checked a polarity with polarity checker in my Abbeys yesterday. It looks like I have a reversed polarity either in woofers or CDs. Is it supposed to be like this? I mean the pair of either drivers has a reversed polarity in relation to another pair. I heard that it is not so uncommon and sometimes the design demands such a move.
 
Hi Earl,

I noticed that you use the B&C DE500 1" compression driver on your new NS15 Summa. Other than "I like B&C products", and "the DE500 is small and light", what criterion won the selection?

I have never seen nor heard the B&C DE500, just reviewed the company literature. The DE500 uses a 1.7" titanium diaphragm, and the SPL/freq measurements from B&C would suggest a 900Hz - 1000Hz Xover point. The BUZZ is that titanium diaphragms are not optimum for home use due to high frequency break-up, but I suspect this concern is mainly from 3" and 4" diaphragms.



Do you have any experience with left-right, side-firing, counter-force woofers under your NS15? Any general technical information on counter-force woofers?
 
As I have taken so much heat for in other threads, I believe that compression drivers are basically a commodity. The "good' ones are all pretty much the same. I liked the neo for its smaller profile and it is a lot lighter. As to break-up this is not really a problem in the 1" drivers and is vastly over rated as a problem in all drivers. Those who want to sell the more exotic diaphragms are responsible for that.

No, I have no experience with woofers under my speakers as I don't think that is a very good place for them. I don't think that there is much info on "counter force woofers" because it works just like a single one of double the area.
 
Thank you Earl for your terrific speakers. They sound excellent in my difficult room (L-shaped, 20m2). I would like to use a minidsp for active setup sometime in future. I own a DEQX unit but I dont suppose you are willing to adjust filters for that one so I will have to buy 4x10hd. Now I am in a process of building 4 subs. For that I will use a DEQX to delay Abbeys if necessary and a minidsp 2x4 to deal with subs' phase and delays. I can fully recommend these for anyone looking for well designed project instead of well advertised one.
 
I do not take standard "distortion" measurements on my systems. That is because it is well known that these measures do not correlate with perception, so what good would taking that data do? I am sure that these numbers are very low and I could, of course, use them just like everyone else to play the "specsmanship" game, but I prefer to show things that are meaningful, not useless.

JBL does not do distortion measurements anymore either. They have found the same thing - no relevance to sound quality.

I do believe that there is something to the aspect of loudspeakers called "dynamics" which may be associated with "distortion" and I am working on measurements of this aspect of loudspeakers as I write this. But as to THD or IMD, no, I will probably never do those kinds of measurements.
 
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