This one looks like it might actually work in a bass reflex cabinet...
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an12super.jpg
I wonder how it'd do in a Metronome...
http://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an12super.jpg
I wonder how it'd do in a Metronome...
I just ordered a pair of Audio Nirvana Super-10 full-range drivers,
I have 2 Genesis cabinets mounted up on the wall in my rec room so that the 10" hole of these boxes are about 6' off the ground.
I've sorely neglected good speakers in the past, but hope to do some making up by getting these.
Basically, the original Genesis speakers (made in New Hampshire, bought in 1977, probably a good $200 even back then), had an 8" woofer, a tiny cone tweeter, an LCR crossover network, and a 10" passive radiator, with a nice big cone, just no speaker or magnet behind it. The unit was sealed and has a complete fiberglas packing. After having moved a few times, both woofers & radiators rotted out (the neoprene edges), so I just replaced the 8" woofers (probably in the mid 80's) with cheaper generic ones, and actually haven't really used these speakers that much in that past 5 years or so. One of these woofers burned out again, so I figured I'd go all out.
I'm going to put the new AN drivers in the 10" hole where the passive radiators once were, keep the old 8" woofers and the tweeters, just disconnect them completely and run my thick copper zipcord (lately I've found that heavy outdoor low voltage lighting cable is a good choice) directly from my tube amp monoblocks to the new AN driver, at 8 ohms.
The box will be airtight again, leaving the old 8" relics in there, and no electronics other than direct wiring.
Should this be good to go for the most part, or will I get a lot of better performance, say by adding a bit of sand on the bottom, gluing in a simple baffle partway up, and putting a capactor in?
As I mentioned, to boxes are already 6' off the ground and the new drivers will go in the bottom big hole, not the top, where the dead speakers will stay.
Also, when I get my next (bigger than I've attempted before) 30watt monoblock tube hi-fi amp built, I'm planning to run these in series from the 4 watt terminals of the amp, so I can get both going at once.
I have 2 Genesis cabinets mounted up on the wall in my rec room so that the 10" hole of these boxes are about 6' off the ground.
I've sorely neglected good speakers in the past, but hope to do some making up by getting these.
Basically, the original Genesis speakers (made in New Hampshire, bought in 1977, probably a good $200 even back then), had an 8" woofer, a tiny cone tweeter, an LCR crossover network, and a 10" passive radiator, with a nice big cone, just no speaker or magnet behind it. The unit was sealed and has a complete fiberglas packing. After having moved a few times, both woofers & radiators rotted out (the neoprene edges), so I just replaced the 8" woofers (probably in the mid 80's) with cheaper generic ones, and actually haven't really used these speakers that much in that past 5 years or so. One of these woofers burned out again, so I figured I'd go all out.
I'm going to put the new AN drivers in the 10" hole where the passive radiators once were, keep the old 8" woofers and the tweeters, just disconnect them completely and run my thick copper zipcord (lately I've found that heavy outdoor low voltage lighting cable is a good choice) directly from my tube amp monoblocks to the new AN driver, at 8 ohms.
The box will be airtight again, leaving the old 8" relics in there, and no electronics other than direct wiring.
Should this be good to go for the most part, or will I get a lot of better performance, say by adding a bit of sand on the bottom, gluing in a simple baffle partway up, and putting a capactor in?
As I mentioned, to boxes are already 6' off the ground and the new drivers will go in the bottom big hole, not the top, where the dead speakers will stay.
Also, when I get my next (bigger than I've attempted before) 30watt monoblock tube hi-fi amp built, I'm planning to run these in series from the 4 watt terminals of the amp, so I can get both going at once.
OK, I can remove the old 8" drivers and perhaps cover the holes for them with some masonite and use silicone for padding, good and thick, letting it dry first, then apply another layer around the edges later as well, immovable & solid, but no possible vibration.
Then it will be a box of no baffles, airtight, and no electronics except for direct wiring to the AN's.
These are already mounted so that the new AN's though being at the bottom of the box (say 6" from the bottom) will be at eye level, would this suffice, or should I reverse it so they are at the top (closer to the low ceiling), and then drop the mounting level of the boxes on the wall?
I really only have maybe less than a foot to work with as they are tight with the shelves where the amps will go, and I have a sloping ceiling, but the kicker is, with that room (which is really cool), is that it's entirely done in 3/8" thin ribbed grooved plywood from floor to ceiling (coated with stain & polyurethane) with fiberglas backing which should do wonderful with the sound bounce, the walls acting as panel resonators by themselves, and the room is only 12x20 which should make for some good sonic resonance if the acoustics are right.
Then it will be a box of no baffles, airtight, and no electronics except for direct wiring to the AN's.
These are already mounted so that the new AN's though being at the bottom of the box (say 6" from the bottom) will be at eye level, would this suffice, or should I reverse it so they are at the top (closer to the low ceiling), and then drop the mounting level of the boxes on the wall?
I really only have maybe less than a foot to work with as they are tight with the shelves where the amps will go, and I have a sloping ceiling, but the kicker is, with that room (which is really cool), is that it's entirely done in 3/8" thin ribbed grooved plywood from floor to ceiling (coated with stain & polyurethane) with fiberglas backing which should do wonderful with the sound bounce, the walls acting as panel resonators by themselves, and the room is only 12x20 which should make for some good sonic resonance if the acoustics are right.
Best use for fullrangers
Fullrangers have their biggest strength, IMO, not in their fullrange response, but in their (usually) high efficiency, and the ability to cross them over however you're inclined (first order at 5-7k is a great solution, to a ribbon or horn.)
Running most fullrangers in the top octave is not the best idea, there's no way for a 12" to do 20k well compared to a supertweeter. And no matter the perceptual audibility of those signals, people respond to those frequencies.
So, I'm thinking the Nirvana 8" with the cast frame, OB, with helper woofers, and first ordered to a supertweeter.
Fullrangers have their biggest strength, IMO, not in their fullrange response, but in their (usually) high efficiency, and the ability to cross them over however you're inclined (first order at 5-7k is a great solution, to a ribbon or horn.)
Running most fullrangers in the top octave is not the best idea, there's no way for a 12" to do 20k well compared to a supertweeter. And no matter the perceptual audibility of those signals, people respond to those frequencies.
So, I'm thinking the Nirvana 8" with the cast frame, OB, with helper woofers, and first ordered to a supertweeter.
I may have to experiment, I did put some plywood disks over the top 8" holes and sealed these with silicone, but the little 1" cone high-end tweeters are still in there and I can perhaps try hooking them up too (with or without the old network), to see if that helps with the upper range, once I get everything going on this project.
1st order on Fullrangers seem to be a easy ticket to quick ..
& nice results.. I just added a .22mH foil air coil for 4250hz 1st on B200, which I am sure is not accurate but is a #. & then a 2uf cap for the ribbon..10khz ...fired it up....some would love this...I don't know yet...just the small coil & the small cap & NO resistors for padding..seems very good, I also use a .022uf Vitamin Q PLLXO on the input of my 300B PP amp & I like that kind of cut...80hz I think.. seems to clear mids...I run a active bottom end with helper woofers also in OB..Basically what I am getting at is I am trying to get you to cut some 24"x36" pieces of MDF & slam those AN drivers in them... compare that to your cabnets...especially if you are running nice tube amps, which I suspect you are.....Usually I just run the FR with a PLLXO cut then let it run out with a single cap to a ribbon,,,,XOed WAY out there...
& nice results.. I just added a .22mH foil air coil for 4250hz 1st on B200, which I am sure is not accurate but is a #. & then a 2uf cap for the ribbon..10khz ...fired it up....some would love this...I don't know yet...just the small coil & the small cap & NO resistors for padding..seems very good, I also use a .022uf Vitamin Q PLLXO on the input of my 300B PP amp & I like that kind of cut...80hz I think.. seems to clear mids...I run a active bottom end with helper woofers also in OB..Basically what I am getting at is I am trying to get you to cut some 24"x36" pieces of MDF & slam those AN drivers in them... compare that to your cabnets...especially if you are running nice tube amps, which I suspect you are.....Usually I just run the FR with a PLLXO cut then let it run out with a single cap to a ribbon,,,,XOed WAY out there...
So, folks,
since the present time, no one actually have any expiriance with AN super 12" drivers?
A few days ago, I ordered a pair of this drivers, and it seems to me, that the recommended enclosures are not the best solution for them...
T/S parameters strongly suggested some BR design with greater volume of boxes, then 90-100l (the original recommendations from AN website).
Any suggestions?
since the present time, no one actually have any expiriance with AN super 12" drivers?
A few days ago, I ordered a pair of this drivers, and it seems to me, that the recommended enclosures are not the best solution for them...
T/S parameters strongly suggested some BR design with greater volume of boxes, then 90-100l (the original recommendations from AN website).
Any suggestions?
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