TABAQ TL for Tangband

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Can I round my box edges

Hi,
I'm finishing my first Tabaq pair using the Faital 4FE32 in 12mm MDF. The case are decent thanks to the precise cuts of my local shop.
However I'm having a hard time getting a nice surface with my paint process, the issue being edges (and my painting ability...). What is the common practice, can I round them so the paint is continuous ? I did a very small softening with sand paper, but maybe using a short-radius router bit is preferable ? Or would it alter the sound emission ?
Thanks for your inputs !
Charles

P.S. next on my build list are the folded Tabaq using the Peerless P830987.
 
Hi Charles,
if you want round edges you should use a router and as long the shape of the Tabaq is on the outside that will not impact the sound emission, what is vital for the Tabaq is the inside size of the TL, then you must treat the wood properly before painting, in my experience the best result achieved is use different coat of epoxy primer until you get an even surface without imperfection, sanded with 400 to 600 grit then painting with the colour you like, in the painting there is a lots of option depending of what effect you want achieved....all the best
 
Hi,
I'm finishing my first Tabaq pair using the Faital 4FE32 in 12mm MDF. The case are decent thanks to the precise cuts of my local shop.
However I'm having a hard time getting a nice surface with my paint process, the issue being edges (and my painting ability...). What is the common practice, can I round them so the paint is continuous ? I did a very small softening with sand paper, but maybe using a short-radius router bit is preferable ? Or would it alter the sound emission ?
Thanks for your inputs !
Charles

P.S. next on my build list are the folded Tabaq using the Peerless P830987.

Charles,
Did you seal the MDF before you started finishing? Are you concerned about the joins showing through the paint?

My process for finishing with paint is to put on a spit coat of sealer ( thinned sanding sealer ) then a coat of full strength sanding sealer. These will not take long to cure usually. Then a light sanding, heavy sanding should be done prior to sealing. Once sealed apply primer and sand lightly with 100, and then 225. Unless you are doing an automotive gloss type finish that will be smooth enough to apply your paint.

If you are looking to do automotive gloss type finish then the advice kissabout2002 gave regarding successive layers of primer and sanding to 400-600 is good advice indeed.

I find that trying to prime un-sealed MDF results in wasting a lot of primer before your done...

John
 
I'm finishing my first Tabaq pair using the Faital 4FE32 in 12mm MDF. The case are decent thanks to the precise cuts of my local shop.
However I'm having a hard time getting a nice surface with my paint process, the issue being edges (and my painting ability...). What is the common practice, can I round them so the paint is continuous ? I did a very small softening with sand paper, but maybe using a short-radius router bit is preferable ? Or would it alter the sound emission ?

See my build thread for some pics of how I finished my TABAQs:

TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22

I made my boxes from some pretty rough chipboard, but I chamfered the corners, and then filled the edges with wood filler. The ones pictured in my thread I then spray painted since I was in a rush, but the next pair look even better because I used 3 coats of good quality satin finish exterior acrylic paint applied with a roller. The roller creates an "orange peel" effect which effectively hides any surface imperfections in the less than ideal surface, it's a technique I learned while working for a sign maker. I can post some pics of these if you would like to see what I mean...

Can't see how chamfering your corners would affect sound quality, but one of the experts will have to weigh in...can't say I noticed any problem with my speakers.
 
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Luigiman, Mightym and kissabout2002 thanks for your inputs.
I made several errors in this first build... not chamfering the edges enough, not using a filler, etc. I used acrylic paints starting with a primer for MDF, then a primer acrylic and a finish acrylic white satiné.
It's not so much of an issue as they will go into a student's appartment and they care more about the sound than the look. My son already asked if I made them white to allow for their permanent customizations and autographs with a permanent black marker... luckily I live far enough to not see how they live...
anyway they are dring the last coat and when the drivers are mounted and the base are screwed in I will post some pics. Thanks again for the hints, will study primers and sealers before making the next ones.
 
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Stuff you should not let go away... Tabaq TL !!!

My Tabaq TL build with 12mm MDF and Faital Pro 4FE32-8 are live, and the first remark of the "power to be" was "ohhh ils sont classe !" meaning she likes them ;)

There are breaking-in with a SMSL SA-36A class-D amp but I couldn't resist to apply them the "Pete Millet Engineer Amp" treatment and boy, do they sound good. My living room is large but they are not even lost in there ! Sadly they won't stay here for long... my son is taking them with him to his student's appartment, and his first question is "how should I lift them to not annoy the neighbours with the bass ?"... Probably a testimony. Even Mötley Crüe - Kickstart My Heart wasn't ridiculous on them. I played several test songs I know well, but I will get the a few more breakin hours before the ultimate test - Pink Floyd... what else ?

Thanks Bjorn for the remarquable design. I have learned how not to paint MDF, and learned that a pair of €40 drivers can do wonders when the speaker designer knows his job... and Bjorn knows it !

Charles

P.S: next on my list are Tabaq folded with Peerless P830987. I have the drivers and the wood, I need a few hours and maybe a new table saw... is building speakers not a good reason to buy a good table saw ?
 

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Hi there,
I have plenty of 4fe32 drivers at home and will give them a try in a TABAQ. Can someone point me to the right plans for 4"...there is a lot of confusion in last pages jumping between 3" and 4" drivers and I am not sure which plans are right now.

Tnx
 
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Hi, the 4FE32 can be used in the original TABAQ.

The drawing in post 2538 shows:

1 - The original port layout, which is in fact a little too long.
2 - The correct port lyaout, as it should be.

The 4" version of TABAQ is for drivers with Fs of about 75 Hz and Qts betseen 0.35 and 0.4. The cross section should be inceased a little, now 154 cm2. The port is the same (as 2. above). Stuffing 63 gram - 112 gram.

Regards
Bjørn
 
A question - is the idea proposed in the attached picture feasible? I believe there are 2 considerations:

1- Can the footprint be triangular, if the same cross-sectional area as the rectangular version is maintained?
2- Will the ceiling & wall significantly (and/or negatively) impact the speaker response?

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It looks to me from the picture mngnt posted, that the drawing isn't to scale.

I would concur with the recommendation of putting the vent's to the center, as the output from them is low frequency, and that tends to be non directive in nature as well.

You cannot discount the placement reinforcing the low frequency from both the driver, and vent. These are designed to be placed against a wall, but the corner will add an additional 3Db of reinforcement...

Bjorn knows his design, I would imagine that his comment on increasing the stuffing is cogent...

The maintained CSA would result in a box 20.1 CM each direction in the rear, and 28.4 CM on the face ( equilateral triangle..) Shouldn't be a problem to fit the driver...
 
Thanks for the replies all!

Yeah the drawing was just a quick sketch to demonstrate the idea, good call on flipping them with drivers on the outside.

I'll model them in Solidworks to get the correct size and shape (didn't want to spend the time if it didn't make sense from a design perspective). This is the 'far' wall of my kitchen, so the angle will be a compromise between optimal listening angle and what's feasible physically.
 
Thank you so much Bjorn for great design.
It was easy build and great sound.
I found 15mm Acacia laminated wood was cheaper than MDF here.
I tried W3-1319SA but no bass came out.
So I bought W4-1320SIF.
I have built for hostel lobby.
The lounge is large but sounding great!
I staff less wool for more bass.
Bass sound really good.
I like bamboo corn the most.
Smooth vocal,percussion,strings...
Now I want to listen W5-2143 TABAQ.
 

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