quick question to the tabaq experts
Hi all, I'm in the process of building some tabaqs, i have a couple of drivers kicking about so still haven't decided finally (might make a couple of baffles to experiment with swapping the drivers around).
My queustion is around the port - does the design rely on this being close to the floor? I believe it does, but i'm not sure. I have similar rugrat problems to an earlier poster and these will be living room speakers. I would prefer to wall-mount the tabaqs - if i did so, so i need to mount them upside down so the port is using the ceiling as the 'floor'?
thanks
Hi all, I'm in the process of building some tabaqs, i have a couple of drivers kicking about so still haven't decided finally (might make a couple of baffles to experiment with swapping the drivers around).
My queustion is around the port - does the design rely on this being close to the floor? I believe it does, but i'm not sure. I have similar rugrat problems to an earlier poster and these will be living room speakers. I would prefer to wall-mount the tabaqs - if i did so, so i need to mount them upside down so the port is using the ceiling as the 'floor'?
thanks
I picked up some drivers to try in TABAQ,
I have some material to build with, and am getting ready to make sawdust.
I've been thinking about an alternate vent scheme, using round vent instead of the rectangular.
My understanding is as long as the volume of air inside the vent is the same, I can do this.
By my calculations I can use 1.5" plastic plumbing pipe and a 90 deg. elbow to mimic the regular vent, and allow me to create a cavity at the bottom of the line I can fill with sand or lead shot to help keep the cabinets from being knocked over by the animals in my house, both Human and otherwise.... I like the aesthetic of the round vent. By putting this vent in, I can also raise the driver height closer to ideal.
I've not seen this tried in any other builds, but cannot see why it won't work....
I have calculated the length, something around 4.88" long... as the diameter of the pipe internally slightly differs from the 16 Sq. Cm.
John
I have some material to build with, and am getting ready to make sawdust.
I've been thinking about an alternate vent scheme, using round vent instead of the rectangular.
My understanding is as long as the volume of air inside the vent is the same, I can do this.
By my calculations I can use 1.5" plastic plumbing pipe and a 90 deg. elbow to mimic the regular vent, and allow me to create a cavity at the bottom of the line I can fill with sand or lead shot to help keep the cabinets from being knocked over by the animals in my house, both Human and otherwise.... I like the aesthetic of the round vent. By putting this vent in, I can also raise the driver height closer to ideal.
I've not seen this tried in any other builds, but cannot see why it won't work....
I have calculated the length, something around 4.88" long... as the diameter of the pipe internally slightly differs from the 16 Sq. Cm.
John
Shape of port
Hi John
The port can have any shape. The length should be 3.8 inch measured in the middle of the bended port.
The commercial version, picture attached, is actually made like your idea. We used casted iron, but the result should be very similar.
Remember to dry the sand in an oven before using it.
Have fun and keep us posted!
Bjørn
Hi John
The port can have any shape. The length should be 3.8 inch measured in the middle of the bended port.
The commercial version, picture attached, is actually made like your idea. We used casted iron, but the result should be very similar.
Remember to dry the sand in an oven before using it.
Have fun and keep us posted!
Bjørn
Attachments
Bjørn,
Thanks for your reply.
I do intend to have fun with the build, I love to butcher wood...
I did some more research on ports, and it seems I've been laboring under a false set of notions. The volume of the vent isn't the only variable to account for.
I have re-configured the vent using a couple of online calculators, and the information on the design in this thread. I reverse engineered your dimensions and the cabinet volume/tuning information. The port calculators came up with responses so close to your original design that I feel confident of the accuracy so that I can move forward.
I think I'm all set now....
John
Thanks for your reply.
I do intend to have fun with the build, I love to butcher wood...
I did some more research on ports, and it seems I've been laboring under a false set of notions. The volume of the vent isn't the only variable to account for.
I have re-configured the vent using a couple of online calculators, and the information on the design in this thread. I reverse engineered your dimensions and the cabinet volume/tuning information. The port calculators came up with responses so close to your original design that I feel confident of the accuracy so that I can move forward.
I think I'm all set now....
John
Hi guys !
I have a TABAQ 3" (TB W3-1053SC) speaker built with the help of Bjorn and other contributors. And it sounds fantastic for their size. Great design by Bjorn.
Now, I'm trying to "improve" it with better drivers.
One thing I noted with my TB drivers lack "sparkling highs". So, I'm thinking of adding a tweeter. So, how do I do it if I want to cross it over at 12k hz ?
And yeah placement. Should I place it on the top of the enclosure or just next to the driver, on the side?
Also, can I replace the TB W3 driver with this cheap one, Peerless- M10NG midbass driver ? It has better sensitivity !
Peerless Fabrikkerne (I) Ltd - M10NG - 4" Coated Paper Cone Woofer
I have a TABAQ 3" (TB W3-1053SC) speaker built with the help of Bjorn and other contributors. And it sounds fantastic for their size. Great design by Bjorn.
Now, I'm trying to "improve" it with better drivers.
One thing I noted with my TB drivers lack "sparkling highs". So, I'm thinking of adding a tweeter. So, how do I do it if I want to cross it over at 12k hz ?
And yeah placement. Should I place it on the top of the enclosure or just next to the driver, on the side?
Also, can I replace the TB W3 driver with this cheap one, Peerless- M10NG midbass driver ? It has better sensitivity !
Peerless Fabrikkerne (I) Ltd - M10NG - 4" Coated Paper Cone Woofer
TABAQ with FaitalPRO 4FE32 neodymium 8ohm Finished
Have completed the second set, and they are sounding very good with these drivers. Finishing may be unusual, but I wanted to dye the birch, so I did. The color might shock some. The removable baffle is solid African Padouk. Screws on the bottom plate are so I can add some tilt.
I work on my speakers when the time permits, so unfortunately I haven't used the test mic on these yet, Canada had a postal strike and they managed to lose the mic in the mail. It finally did show up so when I get around to testing I will post the results. The highs and mids are amazing with these drivers, bass is about the same as my TB 315's. But I have a 2.1 system so the bottom is supported by the sub.
Have completed the second set, and they are sounding very good with these drivers. Finishing may be unusual, but I wanted to dye the birch, so I did. The color might shock some. The removable baffle is solid African Padouk. Screws on the bottom plate are so I can add some tilt.
I work on my speakers when the time permits, so unfortunately I haven't used the test mic on these yet, Canada had a postal strike and they managed to lose the mic in the mail. It finally did show up so when I get around to testing I will post the results. The highs and mids are amazing with these drivers, bass is about the same as my TB 315's. But I have a 2.1 system so the bottom is supported by the sub.
Attachments
Adding a tweeter is quite easy. Get a sealed one, put a hole either above or under the driver (under will be better time-aligned, above will have "in your face" treble. Add in a 2uF capacitor and that should do it.
No idea about the woofer you showed. It may be good, or bad. I have ordered a number of "no-name" drivers over here and 95% of the time, they have bad FR or horrible distortion. Once a while, I get lucky!
But I would be wary. I could only find two sellers for that driver and the specs were totally different for the same driver. So, unless you have something like the DATS software, you won't know which specs are the good ones, if any of them are good!
I don't know if you can get Dayton drivers, but they might be a bit better, at around the same price range.
No idea about the woofer you showed. It may be good, or bad. I have ordered a number of "no-name" drivers over here and 95% of the time, they have bad FR or horrible distortion. Once a while, I get lucky!
But I would be wary. I could only find two sellers for that driver and the specs were totally different for the same driver. So, unless you have something like the DATS software, you won't know which specs are the good ones, if any of them are good!
I don't know if you can get Dayton drivers, but they might be a bit better, at around the same price range.
Thanks for the reply perceval !
What kind of cap you recommend, ceramic, polyester, electrolytic....... ? I have a 2.25uF polyester capacitor with me. Would it work ? Also, should I add a resister in series to match the sensitivity ?
I can get the 4" fullrange driver from Dayton but its sensitivity is not that great. I want to go louder ! That driver from peerless is very sensitive and potentially play louder than the TB driver which I have. Thats the reason why I listed it here. I agree with you regarding the specs, not consistent.
By the way, my local electronics shop keeper supposedly have a speaker builder buddy who makes speakers driver as per the requirement using aluminium sheet (for cone material).
What kind of cap you recommend, ceramic, polyester, electrolytic....... ? I have a 2.25uF polyester capacitor with me. Would it work ? Also, should I add a resister in series to match the sensitivity ?
I can get the 4" fullrange driver from Dayton but its sensitivity is not that great. I want to go louder ! That driver from peerless is very sensitive and potentially play louder than the TB driver which I have. Thats the reason why I listed it here. I agree with you regarding the specs, not consistent.
By the way, my local electronics shop keeper supposedly have a speaker builder buddy who makes speakers driver as per the requirement using aluminium sheet (for cone material).
I would contemplate this driver for a Tabaq 2-way Peerless 830870 HDS 106 PPB MidWoofer Speaker
Ok, do I have to get high precision "audiophile" type or just normal ones ?
Also, I cannot seem to find 2uF, only 2.2uF ! Would it work for my purpose ?
@burgunder
Thanks man but it's sensitivity is too low !
I like SBAcoustics drivers a lot lately.
You could try either of these that would probably work well.
4" SB12NRXF25-4 :: SB Acoustics
4" SB12PFC25-4 :: SB Acoustics
You could try either of these that would probably work well.
4" SB12NRXF25-4 :: SB Acoustics
4" SB12PFC25-4 :: SB Acoustics
@Spencer Brandsen & @perceval Availability is also a factor as I'm in India at the moment. I'll see what I can do. Thanks for the recommendations guys !
BTW, would this cap work ? Dayton Audio DMPC-2.0 2.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor If I use that cap (2uF), what could be the crossover point ? Also, should I use an inductor as well ?
BTW, would this cap work ? Dayton Audio DMPC-2.0 2.0uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor If I use that cap (2uF), what could be the crossover point ? Also, should I use an inductor as well ?
Yes, that will do.
It's not really a crossover.
You just bring in the tweeter at the point where the woofer's beaming start to be too narrow, and spreading the highs around much better with the tweeter.
Look up SBA. I have found that they have a pretty good distribution around the world lately.
PS. by looking on the distributors' list on SBA, you have one in India.
SB Acoustics | Diy Audio Parts
It's not really a crossover.
You just bring in the tweeter at the point where the woofer's beaming start to be too narrow, and spreading the highs around much better with the tweeter.
Look up SBA. I have found that they have a pretty good distribution around the world lately.
PS. by looking on the distributors' list on SBA, you have one in India.
SB Acoustics | Diy Audio Parts