Hi,
I'm planning to build my first fullrange speakers!
And as this is my first FR project I decided to build something easy and without spending to much money.
So,after a lot of searches in forums I decided to build something
with Fostex drivers.They're not so expensive and they're very good.
Another thought was with Jordan drivers but they're low efficiency stopped my searches.I'd like to drive my speakers with low watt tube amps.
But which Fostex?I thing about the FE206E.
It's an 8"driver so,better bass responce,and also
a lot of diyers claim that they're better than the more expensive FE208E-sigma!So for around 200 euros/pair they're the best choice.
But what kind of enclosure I must choose to build?
As I mention above I'd like to build an easy project so I must choose btw vented,bass reflex,TL or MLTL.
So,what do you say to build Martin King's project 5?
It's a very attractive design and a lot of diyers have build it with good results.(see gallery at Martin's site)
Martin King also mention that it can be upgraded in the future with Lowther drivers!
So?Build them?
Or I have missed something in my searches and there's something better to build with 200 euros?Without the cabinet of cource.
I'm planning to build my first fullrange speakers!
And as this is my first FR project I decided to build something easy and without spending to much money.
So,after a lot of searches in forums I decided to build something
with Fostex drivers.They're not so expensive and they're very good.
Another thought was with Jordan drivers but they're low efficiency stopped my searches.I'd like to drive my speakers with low watt tube amps.
But which Fostex?I thing about the FE206E.
It's an 8"driver so,better bass responce,and also
a lot of diyers claim that they're better than the more expensive FE208E-sigma!So for around 200 euros/pair they're the best choice.
But what kind of enclosure I must choose to build?
As I mention above I'd like to build an easy project so I must choose btw vented,bass reflex,TL or MLTL.
So,what do you say to build Martin King's project 5?
It's a very attractive design and a lot of diyers have build it with good results.(see gallery at Martin's site)
Martin King also mention that it can be upgraded in the future with Lowther drivers!
So?Build them?
Or I have missed something in my searches and there's something better to build with 200 euros?Without the cabinet of cource.
Martin King's MLTL enclosure. 
resident said:
Not necessarily better, but certainly worth considering as it's fairly simple, well within your budget and sounds really great (and has upgradeability
):http://www.geocities.com/northbirdten/buschhorn_mkii.htm
@Resident:
Have you had a look at the "Viech"?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50153
They have high efficiency (96dB/W/m), are fairly easy to build and cost about 150 Euros/pair!
If you want to stay with the Fostexes, I would recommend the FE206E in a Jericho horn enclosure. Very nice speaker, that.
Nice greetings, Berndt
Have you had a look at the "Viech"?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=50153
They have high efficiency (96dB/W/m), are fairly easy to build and cost about 150 Euros/pair!
If you want to stay with the Fostexes, I would recommend the FE206E in a Jericho horn enclosure. Very nice speaker, that.
Nice greetings, Berndt
Ok,Ropie's link works well now for me.Maybe a problem with my connection....
Isn't it (+Viech and Jericho) more complicated than the MLTLs?
MLTL enclosure is just four pieces of wood stick them together!
Or BR!Like Fostex recommended enclosure.That is what I mean easy.Maybe my reference to TL has confused you.Sorry for that.
Isn't it (+Viech and Jericho) more complicated than the MLTLs?
MLTL enclosure is just four pieces of wood stick them together!
Or BR!Like Fostex recommended enclosure.That is what I mean easy.Maybe my reference to TL has confused you.Sorry for that.
If you can stick four pieces of wood together accurately then it is really not too much more trouble to stick twenty four (smaller) pieces together accurately. I've made simple TLs from a kit and my own Buschhorns - the TL kit took me two weeks, the BHorns took me two days. Do a search for Buschhorn in Google - there are quite a few examples (including my own). And you might find they work fine for you without the notch filter.
However, I wouldn't want to put you off designing the TL as they can be really great speakers. BTW, those Viechs look like a good project too!
However, I wouldn't want to put you off designing the TL as they can be really great speakers. BTW, those Viechs look like a good project too!
I'm inclined to recommend a BLH for the FE206E which with it's rising FR it is well suited for. The Fostex recommended enclosure shouldn't be too tough. It looks harder than it really is.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=51041&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=51041&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
Sorry that I didn't notice that I won't build the enclosures! 
I don't have the time for that and the required tools to work with.
I'll order them from a local industry.If I'll order a simple enclosure the money won't be too much but if the woodworker see the schems of the BLH,the BHhorn,the Jericho or even the more simple Viech he will start to
.
Some months ago maybe a year I have ordered from him to build me the enclosuresof the Ariels
I don't remember how much he wants to build them.And then I ask from him to build me the enclosures of the more simple,the Ariel ME2.
So my project are not only 200 euros.But,plus the enclosure.That's why I decided to build Martin King's MLTL enclosure.I think the woodworker will spend only a few hours to build them.They're more simple than the Ariel ME2 are!
If I'm happy with Fostex,then I'llgo with Lowther or...I don't know but with something better than the Fostex.And then I'll decide with which horn I'll go.
So now I'd like to find a simple enclosure to keep the budget at low levels.
I don't have the time for that and the required tools to work with.
I'll order them from a local industry.If I'll order a simple enclosure the money won't be too much but if the woodworker see the schems of the BLH,the BHhorn,the Jericho or even the more simple Viech he will start to
.Some months ago maybe a year I have ordered from him to build me the enclosuresof the Ariels
I don't remember how much he wants to build them.And then I ask from him to build me the enclosures of the more simple,the Ariel ME2.
So my project are not only 200 euros.But,plus the enclosure.That's why I decided to build Martin King's MLTL enclosure.I think the woodworker will spend only a few hours to build them.They're more simple than the Ariel ME2 are!
If I'm happy with Fostex,then I'llgo with Lowther or...I don't know but with something better than the Fostex.And then I'll decide with which horn I'll go.
So now I'd like to find a simple enclosure to keep the budget at low levels.
I also think that Martin's MLTL is the most attractive design.But what do you say about a bass reflex design?I read over here and here very good comments and the guys look very experienced on FR drivers.Or just they want to sell they're products?
Another question I'd like to ask is what kind of wood to choose?
Real wood,MDF or plywood?
In an another forum some diyers claim that FR speakers sound better with real wood and with much more difference.
Another question I'd like to ask is what kind of wood to choose?
Real wood,MDF or plywood?
In an another forum some diyers claim that FR speakers sound better with real wood and with much more difference.
I think if you are having the cabinets cut and made for you, you will have to go with plywood or MDF. Plywood is supposedly better (as long as it is of a reasonable quality) from an acoustic point of view though is a bit more expensive. Sheet thickness should be 12, 15 or 18mm depending on how rigid you need the cabinets to be. My Buschhorns have plywood side and rear panels and MDF for the fronts as it is easier to paint (or cover with leather, in my case).
If you want real wood I think you will probably have to double your budget. You could always use ply and then stick real wood veneer on of course..
If you want real wood I think you will probably have to double your budget. You could always use ply and then stick real wood veneer on of course..
So you also agree to go with Martin's MLTL design!
But with what kind of wood?Real wood or MDF,plywood?
Ropie,
I ask the woodworker for the difference btw MDF veneered or real wood and he told me that there's no big difference with the price.If it's about 200 euros with MDF veneered,with real wood it's about 300euros.It depends on what kind of real wood.
I don't mind if I'll give 100 or 150 euros more if my speakers look better and SOUND better too!But will they sound better with real wood or not?
I only have seen this purpose with FR speakers.I don't remember where but I'll try to find it.But some FR speaker builders claim that FR drivers sound much more better with real wood cabinets.
And also I don't remember what kind of real wood is the best for this purpose.
Oak,cherry,pine,walnut,beech or .... ?
But with what kind of wood?Real wood or MDF,plywood?
Ropie,
I ask the woodworker for the difference btw MDF veneered or real wood and he told me that there's no big difference with the price.If it's about 200 euros with MDF veneered,with real wood it's about 300euros.It depends on what kind of real wood.
I don't mind if I'll give 100 or 150 euros more if my speakers look better and SOUND better too!But will they sound better with real wood or not?
I only have seen this purpose with FR speakers.I don't remember where but I'll try to find it.But some FR speaker builders claim that FR drivers sound much more better with real wood cabinets.
And also I don't remember what kind of real wood is the best for this purpose.
Oak,cherry,pine,walnut,beech or .... ?
As far as using real wood, I would advise caution. Plywood and MDF are both fairly stable under normal conditions; real wood of any significant thickness has a tendency to warp and/or shrink over time. While this may be acceptable for furniture, it could cause problems with your carefully calculated speakers. The vast majority of speakers (including FR loudspeakers) are made from either MDF or ply. Does it make a difference to the sound using real wood? Probably, but whether the difference is 'better' or not is another thing!
My advice in your case would be to use veneered MDF (as long as the carpenter does a good job of the joins). Apart from looking good the veneer will help stiffen the MDF, so you will get some of the properties of real wood anyway
Resident
Stay away from the bass reflex design you posted. You'll note that both of those sites/posts are from the same person. Generally, people who build those are not remotly satisfied unless theres some pretty serious circutry involved. If you peruse the full site, you'll notice that the box designer (David Dicks) thinks that any speaker will work well in his box, even a Lowther. Take the advice of the folks here and steer clear of that direction. Lot's of good advice in this thread.
Cheers!
Stay away from the bass reflex design you posted. You'll note that both of those sites/posts are from the same person. Generally, people who build those are not remotly satisfied unless theres some pretty serious circutry involved. If you peruse the full site, you'll notice that the box designer (David Dicks) thinks that any speaker will work well in his box, even a Lowther. Take the advice of the folks here and steer clear of that direction. Lot's of good advice in this thread.
Cheers!
Hmmm…I think I’ll go with MDF or plywood. Thank you guys for your help.
Ropie,
The carpenter does a very good job. The Ariel’s (ME2) he built me look marvellous.
Very good joints, too. I’ll try to post a pic.
One1speed,
Thanks for the advice!
So now I’m btw MDF and plywood.
About the design now! Go with Martin’s MLTL design?
If yes I’d like to ask something. If I’ll remove the port from the front of the baffle and put it at the bottom, will this affect the speaker’s performance? Without removing the driver. I’d like to do sth like GM’s MLTL design. The drivers will be at ear’s level, too! What do you say?
Ropie,
The carpenter does a very good job. The Ariel’s (ME2) he built me look marvellous.
Very good joints, too. I’ll try to post a pic.
One1speed,
Thanks for the advice!
So now I’m btw MDF and plywood.
Hey planet10,I'll ask my carpenter for this!
About the design now! Go with Martin’s MLTL design?
If yes I’d like to ask something. If I’ll remove the port from the front of the baffle and put it at the bottom, will this affect the speaker’s performance? Without removing the driver. I’d like to do sth like GM’s MLTL design. The drivers will be at ear’s level, too! What do you say?
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