the notch I posted is originally for the TischTML with the W3-315 (which I have as PC speakers), I used it with the 315 in the Lancetta and that sounded very well alsohpolkerman said:
I did a sim with the Vifa 9BGS119/8 in the Needle (still struggling on how to countersink these **** frames, so have not completed them yet) and that looked very well
i'd also be interested in the results as i have a couple of 1.5l boxes which have had both the w3-315SCs and now the TG9DF10s in. The Vifas are *much* more to my taste.
Needles I haven't built yet, but i'd like front speakers for the lounge and the Tabaqs were a bit... flabby. Yeah, OK, I can cure that, but sand and stability (Like the cross-bar idea!) and 19mm MDF add to time, effort and complexity.
Bret
Needles I haven't built yet, but i'd like front speakers for the lounge and the Tabaqs were a bit... flabby. Yeah, OK, I can cure that, but sand and stability (Like the cross-bar idea!) and 19mm MDF add to time, effort and complexity.
Bret
Hi Bret, I would also like to get more info about the problems Vifa/TABAQ.
I have done simulations with the 3.5" Vifa in my TABAQ and was acutally planning to test these drivers in my design in the near future and replace the TB drivers.
Using Masrtin J. King software, these Vifa drivers should perfrom very well in TABAQ. BSC should med 1.8 ohm and 0.5 mH, however.
Hi from
Bjorn
I have done simulations with the 3.5" Vifa in my TABAQ and was acutally planning to test these drivers in my design in the near future and replace the TB drivers.
Using Masrtin J. King software, these Vifa drivers should perfrom very well in TABAQ. BSC should med 1.8 ohm and 0.5 mH, however.
Hi from
Bjorn
Well,
I've tried my Vifa's in the Picolino, a dbr and in a horn-system, in wich they didn't sound to my liking. I'm building a TQWT now for the vifa's.
The sound is to compacted (No open sound to them). In the picolino I found them a but dull, in the horn a bit bass-less.
But with the test TQWT I've got with the Vifa's, they sound good, got to play with the dampening a bit, but they sound more open now...
Maybe it's just a difficult driver ...
I've tried my Vifa's in the Picolino, a dbr and in a horn-system, in wich they didn't sound to my liking. I'm building a TQWT now for the vifa's.
The sound is to compacted (No open sound to them). In the picolino I found them a but dull, in the horn a bit bass-less.
But with the test TQWT I've got with the Vifa's, they sound good, got to play with the dampening a bit, but they sound more open now...
Maybe it's just a difficult driver ...
I'm not convinced my driver positions are sealed, so I'm going to check that to start with. I may actually build the next versions first.
I want to use 16/19mm MDF as the bass from my original cabinet was muddy, though that didn't have any extra sealing - I tend to use a thin layer of bitumen mastic as it seals and adds mass.
I was really, seriously, impressed by the tabaq with the W3-315SC. "that can't be just that box!". It was good enough that really wanted to test properly, so then I put number 2 together and promptly put my screwdriver through the diaphragm of one W3...
I have a portable amp in a simple box and the W3s went with me to KL and France - they were run in well. They sounded Ok, no deep bass, but hey, better than nothing and reasonably portable. The Vifas replaced the TBs in those boxes and I had them at work for a week, on whilst I was in the office, to run them in. I'd had them with my REL Sub here at home, been stunned, and then took them to work. They've now run the better part of 50 hours at reasonable volumes.
The Vifas I like even though they show up the quality of my Arcam amps at work and the not-so-good imaging of the yamaha AV Amp I have here at home. With the SLS-165 sub in 17l (long story), it was really rather good - several colleagues agreed.
The absolute top end is missing, (there's a track on a Linn CD I have called "angel's camp" and there, and only there, it's obvious), pretty much everything else sounds good or better. For €32 here, they're a steal.
I was hoping to get that imaged, clear, relaxed sound out of the tabaqs (or needles). The tabaqs would fit beautifully in the lounge in polished deep red.
I'll see if I can get a set of new boards for the new Tabaqs cut tomorrow and then I can glue, seal and test, hopefully by the weekend. If they don't work, they don't work but then I should understand better why - and it won't be just crappy workmanship on my part.
I don't use a filter, I simply haven't got round to it, I find the TBs OK without and the bass was the more interesting part, at least to start with.
Bret
PS: this is mildly addictive, isn't it?
I want to use 16/19mm MDF as the bass from my original cabinet was muddy, though that didn't have any extra sealing - I tend to use a thin layer of bitumen mastic as it seals and adds mass.
I was really, seriously, impressed by the tabaq with the W3-315SC. "that can't be just that box!". It was good enough that really wanted to test properly, so then I put number 2 together and promptly put my screwdriver through the diaphragm of one W3...
I have a portable amp in a simple box and the W3s went with me to KL and France - they were run in well. They sounded Ok, no deep bass, but hey, better than nothing and reasonably portable. The Vifas replaced the TBs in those boxes and I had them at work for a week, on whilst I was in the office, to run them in. I'd had them with my REL Sub here at home, been stunned, and then took them to work. They've now run the better part of 50 hours at reasonable volumes.
The Vifas I like even though they show up the quality of my Arcam amps at work and the not-so-good imaging of the yamaha AV Amp I have here at home. With the SLS-165 sub in 17l (long story), it was really rather good - several colleagues agreed.
The absolute top end is missing, (there's a track on a Linn CD I have called "angel's camp" and there, and only there, it's obvious), pretty much everything else sounds good or better. For €32 here, they're a steal.
I was hoping to get that imaged, clear, relaxed sound out of the tabaqs (or needles). The tabaqs would fit beautifully in the lounge in polished deep red.
I'll see if I can get a set of new boards for the new Tabaqs cut tomorrow and then I can glue, seal and test, hopefully by the weekend. If they don't work, they don't work but then I should understand better why - and it won't be just crappy workmanship on my part.
I don't use a filter, I simply haven't got round to it, I find the TBs OK without and the bass was the more interesting part, at least to start with.
Bret
PS: this is mildly addictive, isn't it?
bretti_kivi said:so then I put number 2 together and promptly put my screwdriver through the diaphragm of one W3...
I too had the same problem, had to order a new unit, this happend with the build of the second Neelde (the left one). With the W3-315SC you can allmost feel the bass....
I've tested my vifa's in my own designed TQWT of 66inches and they sound OK, a but hollow. Still needs a notch filter and inner dampening... But I'm pleased with the sound.
They should replace the Needles, or if the needles still sound better, the Vifa's are going to my wife's Yoga room...
Let me know on the progress, and how the Tabaq's and needles sound... I do still want to try the W3-517SC in the needles.... Anyone who has heard the both of them? ...
Hello,
I'm also going to build the Needles. I already have all parts except for the wood.
After I saw the size of the parts of the notch filter I decided to put this filter in a separate enclosure to be put maybe 50 cm behind the speakers. Concerning this idea I have two questions:
Will the unusual great cable length between the filter and the chassis influence the effect of the filter in any way?
Using the seperate enclosure I want to run the speaker cable through the rear wall of the speakers, the binding posts will be attached to the separate enclosure. How can I seal the hole for cable duct hermetically? Since most speaker cables are flat Strain Relief Connectors will not work. Hot-melt adhesive would work but is a very inelegant solution. Someone has a better idea?
Greetings,
Chris
I'm also going to build the Needles. I already have all parts except for the wood.
After I saw the size of the parts of the notch filter I decided to put this filter in a separate enclosure to be put maybe 50 cm behind the speakers. Concerning this idea I have two questions:
Will the unusual great cable length between the filter and the chassis influence the effect of the filter in any way?
Using the seperate enclosure I want to run the speaker cable through the rear wall of the speakers, the binding posts will be attached to the separate enclosure. How can I seal the hole for cable duct hermetically? Since most speaker cables are flat Strain Relief Connectors will not work. Hot-melt adhesive would work but is a very inelegant solution. Someone has a better idea?
Greetings,
Chris
Well I have been building some bedroom cabinets, which required me (of course) purchasing a bench saw and lots and lots of 12mm MDF.
Hmmmm - what to do with all the spare pieces
?
I've read and reread this thread, and it's very interesting.
I'd like to build a pair of needles , primarily to be used by my kids in their mini home theatre i.e driven from a DVD player via a T-amp.
Can anyone summarise the different possible drivers and their pros & cons.
The original Visaton is cheap and also does not need a notch.
I have used the w3-871 in another project and it is a little hard, though mainly on axis. It's also shielded which might be good if they end up sitting close to a TV. Other members have used other drivers. I guess it's possible to change drivers later as the hole size are the same ?
Hmmmm - what to do with all the spare pieces
?I've read and reread this thread, and it's very interesting.
I'd like to build a pair of needles , primarily to be used by my kids in their mini home theatre i.e driven from a DVD player via a T-amp.
Can anyone summarise the different possible drivers and their pros & cons.
The original Visaton is cheap and also does not need a notch.
I have used the w3-871 in another project and it is a little hard, though mainly on axis. It's also shielded which might be good if they end up sitting close to a TV. Other members have used other drivers. I guess it's possible to change drivers later as the hole size are the same ?
Hi,
You can use a lot of drivers on the needle,
The most common:
OmnesAudio BB3.01 (Doesn't need a notch either)
Tangband versions (w3's and the w4's)
Visaton fullrange
and the HiVi Research B3S
you could go on an on....
The lower the driver can go the more bass you'll probably get out of the neelde, but it won't meen that the driver would sound good.
If you want a reasonable needle don't use the cheap Visaton. It does work well, but to build a needle for such a cheap speaker, I would buy a better driver... The Omnes Audio would be nice to try, however I am very pleased with the Tangband....
So It's your pick really
You can use a lot of drivers on the needle,
The most common:
OmnesAudio BB3.01 (Doesn't need a notch either)
Tangband versions (w3's and the w4's)
Visaton fullrange
and the HiVi Research B3S
you could go on an on....
The lower the driver can go the more bass you'll probably get out of the neelde, but it won't meen that the driver would sound good.
If you want a reasonable needle don't use the cheap Visaton. It does work well, but to build a needle for such a cheap speaker, I would buy a better driver... The Omnes Audio would be nice to try, however I am very pleased with the Tangband....
So It's your pick really