My metalworking skills are better than my woodworking skills so I prefer to work in iron. I saw a youtube video mention that steel is better than wood because it does not vibrate the cabinet.
I'm following the plans from here
Lowther Club Of Norway - The Voigt Pipe
I plan to weld shut the gap at the top unlike most which leave it open. I will use sheeps wool to stuff the upper part of the cabinet because the fleeces are readily available.
I haven't decided on a driver, i do not have a debit card at the moment so will likely have to scavenge some 8" drivers from my current setup, or put a 4 ohm resistor network to match some 8" 4ohm car speakers to my cambridge audio axa25 amp. I think i'll still have enough drive power available to meet my needs if i do so.
I have bought two 8ftx4ft sheets of 6mm steel, so the speaker will be heavy, though not as large as some voight pipes.
I plan to pass the speaker wire through a hole instead of using binding posts, because i have no way to buy them.
So thoughts? is this a waste of time? my old sony floorstanding cabinet used to vibrate at the seams, i like that this will not because it's all welded together. I would have started assembly today but was shaking off a cold and given the plague that's around i didn't want to risk it.
There is a music shop nearby i will contact to see if they have a driver and binding posts to suit me.
Should i leave the top of the cabinet open. I find tuning maths difficult, am a total newbie but i figure if i assemble it i will get acceptable results with a random driver. Is this a correct assumption with a 6ft long cabinet, not the folded type.
I'm following the plans from here
Lowther Club Of Norway - The Voigt Pipe
I plan to weld shut the gap at the top unlike most which leave it open. I will use sheeps wool to stuff the upper part of the cabinet because the fleeces are readily available.
I haven't decided on a driver, i do not have a debit card at the moment so will likely have to scavenge some 8" drivers from my current setup, or put a 4 ohm resistor network to match some 8" 4ohm car speakers to my cambridge audio axa25 amp. I think i'll still have enough drive power available to meet my needs if i do so.
I have bought two 8ftx4ft sheets of 6mm steel, so the speaker will be heavy, though not as large as some voight pipes.
I plan to pass the speaker wire through a hole instead of using binding posts, because i have no way to buy them.
So thoughts? is this a waste of time? my old sony floorstanding cabinet used to vibrate at the seams, i like that this will not because it's all welded together. I would have started assembly today but was shaking off a cold and given the plague that's around i didn't want to risk it.
There is a music shop nearby i will contact to see if they have a driver and binding posts to suit me.
Should i leave the top of the cabinet open. I find tuning maths difficult, am a total newbie but i figure if i assemble it i will get acceptable results with a random driver. Is this a correct assumption with a 6ft long cabinet, not the folded type.
6mm iron is quite strong. I doubt an acoustic wave will make it flex like a hammer would. I once made a tractor exhaust out of 4mm iron, drilled and cut out all the baffles perfectly. It didn't silence the engine at all. I think a silenced exhaust relies on the thin metal vibrating in order to cancel out any noise.
I don't know where to get dampening material but if i were to use it, then that would change the internal dimensions. I shall chance it and see what happens. maybe the bell ringing will be a pleasant sound.
I was recommended this speaker a tonsil gdn 20/40
Tonsil Woofer GDN 20/40/14 8 Ohm: Amazon.de: Musical Instruments
apparently it's datasheet has excellent specs for the build. i noticed that some speakers are better suited to mounting from the inside of a cabinet and others from the outside. i would like to avoid cutting open the cabinet with a grinder for access so would prefer the former type.
does anyone have a low cost recommendation for me that would match my amplifier. I could put off the project for longer until the financial situation changes.
I don't know where to get dampening material but if i were to use it, then that would change the internal dimensions. I shall chance it and see what happens. maybe the bell ringing will be a pleasant sound.
I was recommended this speaker a tonsil gdn 20/40
Tonsil Woofer GDN 20/40/14 8 Ohm: Amazon.de: Musical Instruments
apparently it's datasheet has excellent specs for the build. i noticed that some speakers are better suited to mounting from the inside of a cabinet and others from the outside. i would like to avoid cutting open the cabinet with a grinder for access so would prefer the former type.
does anyone have a low cost recommendation for me that would match my amplifier. I could put off the project for longer until the financial situation changes.
Logical fallacy. CRS is ideal for enclosures specifically for this reason -while it rings like a bell, it does not do so at a frequency likely to be excited by a loudspeaker drive unit: the operating behaviour of a loudspeaker driver is not equivalent to belting a box with a hammer; this is also why the old 'knuckle-rap test' is usually worthless. High Q, high frequency resonances in extremely stiff panels are fine for LF enclosures. In reality, they're unlikely to be especially high Q either (these things being relative) if the panel dimensions aren't particularly large, and being at a high frequency, should any damping be necessary to kill any minor audible issues, it will usually be very small.
go for it!
I would make it folded, for looks and stability
Background Information of a TQWT: Before producing a simulation or adaptation in terms of what the speaker will look like,… | Speaker plans, Speaker design, Speaker
It works OK here, so might be something server related?
Be that as it may, I should have pointed out before myself, as a couple of others have, that that design isn't really all that great. I would be more inclined toward a BIB type, which doesn't take up much more space & usually performs better. It depends on the driver used of course. Most car audio drivers tend toward being high[er] Q units, for use in small spaces with some LF peaking to provide a bit of extra LF, so may not work all that well in this sort of box.
'Voigt' (no 'h') by the way. It's named after P.G.A.H. Voigt.
Be that as it may, I should have pointed out before myself, as a couple of others have, that that design isn't really all that great. I would be more inclined toward a BIB type, which doesn't take up much more space & usually performs better. It depends on the driver used of course. Most car audio drivers tend toward being high[er] Q units, for use in small spaces with some LF peaking to provide a bit of extra LF, so may not work all that well in this sort of box.
'Voigt' (no 'h') by the way. It's named after P.G.A.H. Voigt.
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That particular Voigt is old and not all that good. It has been shown that a properlyy done ML-Voigt will handily be better in the bass.
You need to model the pipe for whichever specific driver you wish to use. Perhaps Scott ot Paul or so eone can have a look for you?
As Scott suggests, steel should make for a really good enclosure.
dave
You need to model the pipe for whichever specific driver you wish to use. Perhaps Scott ot Paul or so eone can have a look for you?
As Scott suggests, steel should make for a really good enclosure.
dave
It loads for me just enough to see what it is, then redirects me to suspicious SPAM, but works fine in the archives: Voigt Pipe
>Got a link? I can't find any specs for this as a sheet.
I didn't have any specs when i bought it, wouldn't know where to look. When i said it was strong it was from practical experience making agricultural implements with it.
I can load the geocities page just fine though i didn't see much of interest on it. I think I'll go ahead with building it due to the number of successful existing builds, widely available plans and the simplicity of construction. I would have to purchase more steel for a BIB construction which would raise the cost. Steel has doubled in price since last time i bought. the two 8x4 6mm sheets were €347
This is the best page I found for documenting the voigt pipes.
Voigt Pipe Speakers
I didn't have any specs when i bought it, wouldn't know where to look. When i said it was strong it was from practical experience making agricultural implements with it.
I can load the geocities page just fine though i didn't see much of interest on it. I think I'll go ahead with building it due to the number of successful existing builds, widely available plans and the simplicity of construction. I would have to purchase more steel for a BIB construction which would raise the cost. Steel has doubled in price since last time i bought. the two 8x4 6mm sheets were €347
This is the best page I found for documenting the voigt pipes.
Voigt Pipe Speakers
I've certainly never built a cabinet out of steel; it'll be interesting how this turns out. I was was imagining it would sound a bit like like a tank! Looking at the link'd diagram, 71"... If you built it with no bottom or driver cutout; hung it from a chain, would you have a nice bell? I dunno -
Understandably, if you only excite something far away from high Q, high frequency resonances; dont care. Thinking multiway system with the upper frequency driver(s) in their own sub enclosure. But this is a FR - all the sound coming out the back of the driver is going to bouncing around in there.
From my very short experience, this is what the enclosure is tasked to contain - without re-radiating any of it from its surface. Regarding sound pressure, I think it's fair to assume nothing will stop it completely. Maybe 6mm CRS will.
Almost all the HF from a wideband is emitted from the front of the driver; what little there is at the rear is heavily disrupted by the motor assembly. The amount of acoustical energy available to excite resonances also rapidly drops with ascending frequency, so something like 6mm CRS makes for a good cabinet material, with little panel damping needed. You may require some acoustic damping to reduce reflections, but that is functionally speaking a separate issue.
This is also why Dave, GM, myself & many others aim for high rigidity panels for LF enclosures, and favour a quality void-free multiply to an equivalent thickness of, say, MDF, which has significant mass but in MOE terms is about 30% (off the top of my head) down. No harm (other than to your back) in combining rigidity with mass of course, and high mass is functionally good for midrange & HF enclosures / structures, providing panel Fs is sufficiently below the operating passband. As I often say, you cannot prevent panel resonance. Everything resonates. All we're seeking to do is shunt panel Fs to a point where there is little energy available to excite it.
This is also why Dave, GM, myself & many others aim for high rigidity panels for LF enclosures, and favour a quality void-free multiply to an equivalent thickness of, say, MDF, which has significant mass but in MOE terms is about 30% (off the top of my head) down. No harm (other than to your back) in combining rigidity with mass of course, and high mass is functionally good for midrange & HF enclosures / structures, providing panel Fs is sufficiently below the operating passband. As I often say, you cannot prevent panel resonance. Everything resonates. All we're seeking to do is shunt panel Fs to a point where there is little energy available to excite it.