I have Leak Stereo 20, which sounds very nice with my Lowther Mini Acousta PM6a. My second amp is HEATHKIT W-5m, which also plays good with Lowther, but IMO its better performance is with JBL-like speakers (I have a pair of JBL LE8T). BTW it is interesting that Leak 20 doesn't match JBL LE8T, the sound somewhat lacks flavor.
So returning to the Bicor question. The cabs go without wiring, only banana connectors are included. Should I make something like this? Sorry for the pic, I'm not an engineer.
Should I switch my amp in the 4 ohms mode to use Bicor 2000?
So returning to the Bicor question. The cabs go without wiring, only banana connectors are included. Should I make something like this? Sorry for the pic, I'm not an engineer.
Should I switch my amp in the 4 ohms mode to use Bicor 2000?
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Unfortunately I have no experience with those amps maybe someone else can chime in but if the amp has a 4ohm mode well then that certainly sounds promising for compatibility.
Your picture looks fine to me, when I've done this in the past I just had one set of wires going to one driver and then daisy-chained off that to the other.
It might be interesting to bi-amp the speakers if you put in another set of banana plugs.
Your picture looks fine to me, when I've done this in the past I just had one set of wires going to one driver and then daisy-chained off that to the other.
It might be interesting to bi-amp the speakers if you put in another set of banana plugs.
Series of parallel can be done. In series the impendance will be nominal 16ohm, which is no issue for any amp, but the amp won't give the full volume. In parallel the impendance will be nominal 4 ohm, which is no issue if your amp can drive 4R speakers. I don't know if the Leak can do that, but if it could, it may be the best solution.
I followed the advice and asked at lowtherloudspeakers.com. Martin Thornton from the Lowther team kindly answered me that, firstly, the parallel connection (as on my pic) is indeed an appropriate solution. Secondly the output will be either 15ohms (for two paralleled 15ohms speakers) or 8ohms (for two paralleled 8ohms speakers).
Total nominal impedance cannot possibly be 15ohms for two drive units with 15ohm coils & wired in parallel, or 8ohms for two drive units with 8ohm coils & wired in parallel.
Using those nominal values:
1pr of 8ohm drivers wired in parallel = 4ohms
1pr of 8ohm drivers wired in series = 16ohms
1pr of 15ohm drivers wired in parallel = 7.5ohms
1pr of 15ohm drivers wired in series = 30ohms
I have a pair of Bicor wired parallel and am going to wire them in series to use my REL as the REL volume is very low at 4 ohms. The Quad VA One only has one set of binding posts a great little valve amp but I do not have a choice of 8 or even 16 ohm taps. So @ 16 ohm the speakers will give the amp an easier time and work over the 8 ohm load that the REL requires. I have a pair of Totem Sky floorstanders that are 8 ohms and the REL works well with so hoping that 16 Ohm speakers will give a similar result. Maybe I will have to turn the REL down a little. We will see. I used to have a pair of LS/35A speakers @16 ohm. Could have tested it all with those. You never have what you need at the right time in this game..