Dave,
If I understand correctly, JrKC is planning to:
JrKC, did I understand correctly?
If I understand correctly, JrKC is planning to:
- Use the cotton batting as the "lining" material
- Use the Acoustastuff as poly fill
JrKC, did I understand correctly?
Last edited:
I got this off the original plans:
"2/ Line top, back & 1 sidewall with 1" acoustic fiberglass, then tune to taste"
Going to assume "ultratouch" could also be used. Doesn't say anything about stuffing, as in, you wouldn't do both.
jeff
Can you get a bat of corron batting? ie quilts of it?
The cotton felt at the top is sort of a belt & suspenders thing. Its purpose is to help kill a bit the earlier HF stuff from reflecting back to the cone.
Quilted Polyester fluff would be a choice.
And think about alternate sources.
The grey (or brown) ones look to be good. The say "Custom cuts, densities and sizes are available upon request.”
https://brandfelt.com/insoles/?msclkid=5e185aee210411a2ea013ce91cbebcd6
But if we are shipping from Canada, i have a bit of a roll of lower desity Ultratouch left and i don’t need all of it. Postage.
dave
The cotton felt at the top is sort of a belt & suspenders thing. Its purpose is to help kill a bit the earlier HF stuff from reflecting back to the cone.
Quilted Polyester fluff would be a choice.
And think about alternate sources.
The grey (or brown) ones look to be good. The say "Custom cuts, densities and sizes are available upon request.”
https://brandfelt.com/insoles/?msclkid=5e185aee210411a2ea013ce91cbebcd6
But if we are shipping from Canada, i have a bit of a roll of lower desity Ultratouch left and i don’t need all of it. Postage.
dave
Last edited:
You can, for making quilts.
https://www.amazon.ca/Natural-Cotto...2&psc=1&mcid=9ffee9c984eb33b09fd90770f872d7d9
https://www.amazon.ca/Natural-Cotto...2&psc=1&mcid=9ffee9c984eb33b09fd90770f872d7d9
The HF is where I suspect I’ll want to tame things. I may also implement the Zobel described by @cogitech
@planet10 , I’ll probably hit you up for the upper lagging/lining for the two speaker boxes. (Reducing variables with known solutions is a plus).
Plus, to tune, I suspect I’ll need to screw the back on so that I might more easily tune the speakers to the room before a final glue-up. Open to ideas on this…the bottom will be screwed and removable.
@vinylkid58 up in this thread is a description of lining the upper portion of the box + fill. It’s also noted on page 10 of the microtower PDF
Attachments
Found a resource that recommends between 0.5-0.7 # per cubic foot of fill for a transmission line, so that’s where I’ll start.
I’ve mounted my drivers in a pair of cardboard boxes in my basement to give them a gentle taste of current for the next few days until I can pick up my BB plywood…going with 3/4” since that’s nearby.
I’ve mounted my drivers in a pair of cardboard boxes in my basement to give them a gentle taste of current for the next few days until I can pick up my BB plywood…going with 3/4” since that’s nearby.
Last edited by a moderator:
Until I build the microtowers, the cardboard speakers outfitted with a chunk of rock wool and a 5lb weight inside have migrated to my office. They easily surpass the Boston HD7s I've been using. It's remarkable.
Listening to "The For Carnation" has been distracting me from my work. (It's completely cliche, but I've never heard this music sound so good. NOW I understand why these little FRs attract so much attention). While I'm still debating on the finish approach for the 15 degree Castle Baffle, I'm even more excitied to build the towers for these Pluvia 7HDs.
Listening to "The For Carnation" has been distracting me from my work. (It's completely cliche, but I've never heard this music sound so good. NOW I understand why these little FRs attract so much attention). While I'm still debating on the finish approach for the 15 degree Castle Baffle, I'm even more excitied to build the towers for these Pluvia 7HDs.
The "MicroMod" is the approach I'm curious about. It borrows the driver spacing and double baffle from the @Scottmoose "Twin driver high-output standmount" and uses the cabinet geometry of the 45 degree microTower Castle, so that the interior volume is unchanged and the lower driver location is consistent with the microTower, (though the upper driver is close to the top panel). The micoTower footprint is ideal for my space.
Thoughts? Caution?
Stop wondering and build the 15 degree Tower?
Thanks!
Thoughts? Caution?
Stop wondering and build the 15 degree Tower?
Thanks!
jrKC,
Not sure, but the way you have done the slant/tilt for your mod brings the top of the cabinet very close to the rear of the upper driver diaphragm, and this might lead to some of the reflections from the cone bouncing back.
For a floor-stander with 2 drivers in the front, do a search for "Wessex ML-TL", and have a look at that design too.
Not sure, but the way you have done the slant/tilt for your mod brings the top of the cabinet very close to the rear of the upper driver diaphragm, and this might lead to some of the reflections from the cone bouncing back.
For a floor-stander with 2 drivers in the front, do a search for "Wessex ML-TL", and have a look at that design too.