Stuffing or potatoes?
Stuffing?
My cabinets are lined with recycled denim insulation and I placed some polyfill in the areas behind the drivers and around the lower braces. I am getting ready to glue the last panel in place and wanted to ask if I should keep or remove the polyfill ? Should there be fill in the bottom of the cabinet?
They sound really good.
Stuffing?
My cabinets are lined with recycled denim insulation and I placed some polyfill in the areas behind the drivers and around the lower braces. I am getting ready to glue the last panel in place and wanted to ask if I should keep or remove the polyfill ? Should there be fill in the bottom of the cabinet?
They sound really good.
I would say "adjust to taste" at this point. My polyfill (acoustistuff) doesn't go all the way to the bottom. I would say about the top 2/3 to 3/4 has polyfill, which would be right around the bottom of the lower brace. This is with 1" thick fiberglass insulation on two interior walls (back and 1 side). They are probably good to go if you like the sound.
wood blocks as base
...I'll finally rout driver holes and glue panels milled ages ago for the microtower castles using EL-70eNs. I plan to use four small wood blocks per cabinet for the bases. My preference is to use 2"x2"x2" blocks for the base, extended from the bottom perimeter by 1"/ea so as to widen footprint by 2", increasing stability.
Sonically, is there good reason to only elevate the cabinet by 1" using 1x1x1's or is the planned 2" cabinet elevation ok?
Thanks.....
Mario
...I'll finally rout driver holes and glue panels milled ages ago for the microtower castles using EL-70eNs. I plan to use four small wood blocks per cabinet for the bases. My preference is to use 2"x2"x2" blocks for the base, extended from the bottom perimeter by 1"/ea so as to widen footprint by 2", increasing stability.
Sonically, is there good reason to only elevate the cabinet by 1" using 1x1x1's or is the planned 2" cabinet elevation ok?
Thanks.....
Mario
Boundary loading of the down firing vents was IIRC a major “design feature” of the first two of original EPI microtower series. The Model 1 (aka 75) had simple notches carved out of the 4 side panels, while the Model 2 had short spacer blocks (3/4” or so?) between the bottom of vented enclosure and plinth base. This eliminated any guess work as to the variable end loading when enclosures were situated on carpeted floors.
How much rigorous modeling/testing was involved in these designs if the mid 70’s is anyone’s guess. Perhaps even Huw Powell (Human Speakers) might not have an authoritative answer to that.
From the Model 3 forwards, I think most “Tower” models were based on multiples of the 6” or 8” mid woofer and tweeter such as implemented in the Model 50, 100, 150, etc.
FWIW, the 4” full range driver used in the MT1 & 2, and I think nowhere else in the EPI product line, bears more than a passing resemblance to that employed in the original Bose 901, but going on almost 50 years, that supposition could be a conflation.
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Yes, very similar to the Bose driver. The launch of the loudspeaker could well have been pushed forward due to finding a stash of cheap drivers.
It is noteworthy that in the original the terminus is not restricted so the terminus area is the entire X-Section of the pipe.
The modern tribute added a restricted terminus to make an ML-TL, go lower, with less ripple. And most of the FRs we are using have extention above 10k.
dave
It is noteworthy that in the original the terminus is not restricted so the terminus area is the entire X-Section of the pipe.
The modern tribute added a restricted terminus to make an ML-TL, go lower, with less ripple. And most of the FRs we are using have extention above 10k.
dave
nice, exactly what I was thinking to do reading page 9, post #172, internal volume would remain unchanged
Was just drawn into the thread first page, easy placement in difficult rooms, more so with Castle slanted top version, didn't see a fully worked out plan set for Castle version
...wondering if a pair of MAOP 7 (series wired) would be plug and play in Pulvia 7HD Micro tower build
I really want to build castles with the 10 degree top reversed (into the room). I have some 7.3s lying in a box for ages. However my wife wants them underneath the TV, which only allows a max height of 60cm in my case. Can I drop the height of the castles to this without adopting the half tower design ?
RE: Damping/Stuffing
I’m about to order acoustistuff for two Pluvia HD7 Castle Bipoles. Is there a recommendation for amount/weight of acoustistuff per box? I’m assuming 1 LB per box will be sufficient.
And any photos of in progress damping?
@planet10 I may reach out to you for the Ultratouch lagging. I also have a package of this cotton batting left over from another project.
I’m about to order acoustistuff for two Pluvia HD7 Castle Bipoles. Is there a recommendation for amount/weight of acoustistuff per box? I’m assuming 1 LB per box will be sufficient.
And any photos of in progress damping?
@planet10 I may reach out to you for the Ultratouch lagging. I also have a package of this cotton batting left over from another project.