Good to know, thanks! I'm a big fan of Corals and broken hearted when they disappeared from my locale in the late '70s IIRC.
GM
I just hope they perform better than the FAST10s a friend of mine bought. And then got rid of, since, not to put too fine a point on it, they were rubbish. Look like Corals though they did, they certainly didn't perform like them. Or anything akin to as advertised. I really wish (was keeping my fingers crossed) they had, those Corals were amongst the best of this type of unit ever built. 
Hopefully he was just unlucky enough to get a duff pair and not representative of other units.
Hopefully he was just unlucky enough to get a duff pair and not representative of other units.
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So I’ve had the Fast 8s for a couple months now in some temporary OB frames. I have them paired with a TubeCube 7 using miniDSP as a crossover with dual subs. I will say that they sounded “ok” before EQ but now that I have them EQd properly and integrated with the subs they sound fantastic. Vocals are lifelike, percussion is fast and natural sounding. They do all genres of music well.
I still have the Audio Nirvana drivers and plan to build the recommended ported enclosure for them. I’ll be interested to compare the two when complete.
I’m in the process of building a Tubelab SSE as a permanent amp for whichever I end up preferring.
I still have the Audio Nirvana drivers and plan to build the recommended ported enclosure for them. I’ll be interested to compare the two when complete.
I’m in the process of building a Tubelab SSE as a permanent amp for whichever I end up preferring.
I'm not quite sure what this means but I've heard it suggested a large baffle can cause this effect.
The TC7's specs says they're a matching output impedance, but too many of these type amps aren't even close, so curious if it actually is.
Couldn't find any useful info on the SSE, so presume it's not.
What all EQ did you need?
GM
What determines if it is? I’ll be using Edcor CXSE25-8-5K output transformers if that helps.
I just let REW smooth out the response a bit, I don’t remember off hand exactly where my peaks and valleys were. I believe I had a hole around 100-200hz which was complemented for by reducing the output of the frequencies above that somewhat.
I use the Fast 8s in an MJK "U" baffle design (Alpha 15a for the bottom end). I cross them low with a MiniDSP. I drive them them with a SET and they sound better than great. I bought them as an experiment to alternate with my DX4s. The lowthers are impressive, but with some recordings not quite so good (a little snarly ?). I dropped the Fast 8s in as simple replacements and I won't be going back any time soon. As for the price - 
If you like the components you have, there's really only one way to proceed (even if you buy new components): active crossover, new second-hand amp, and if you want to make progress, DSP.
I try never to say "only" but with a full-range speaker, you have to keep the bass out. Just fine with music to crossover as high as 140 Hz (unless you play a lot of sine waves). But there is no practical way to have a sharp slope (which is essential) with a passive system. Or even a sensible way to match levels, for that matter.
Amps are cheap - anything made after 1980 would prolly be sonically indistinguishable from the latest. Mixed bass and mono signal to bass perfectly good with either one or two sub boxes - so a single bass amp channel would work.
Hint: try relocating your subs or your chair.
B.
I try never to say "only" but with a full-range speaker, you have to keep the bass out. Just fine with music to crossover as high as 140 Hz (unless you play a lot of sine waves). But there is no practical way to have a sharp slope (which is essential) with a passive system. Or even a sensible way to match levels, for that matter.
Amps are cheap - anything made after 1980 would prolly be sonically indistinguishable from the latest. Mixed bass and mono signal to bass perfectly good with either one or two sub boxes - so a single bass amp channel would work.
Hint: try relocating your subs or your chair.
B.
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Sorry, but that is a whole leap of ******** in one post. A waw/Fast can be done passive (I and many others do it), and no you don't need a sharp cutoff, actually a slow cutoff works better in this type of config. Withe SSE i would also go active, with or a dedicated tuned to the setup analog active crossover (no generic one) or dsp. The wattage of this amp is too low for a woofer. But i do have my waw setup done passive (1st order serial at 250Hz) amped with a 32w tube amp and that works very good.
And not all amps build after 1980 are equal at all. It's not needed to spend a fortune to have a good amp, but there are still big differences in sound. You can't compare a SE tube amp with a cheap chinese chipamp on sound. I would use a good transistor amp (class AB) or a good class D (like the Ncore 400 kit or an ICEpower kit) to power the woofer.
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