A little background. In 2016 my Philips Power AW636 bought in 1996 died. After the typical 'a lot or research' I bought a Marantz MCR510 stereo network reciver. Since I had the old Philips 2 way speaker I connected it to the Marantz and was amazed that they sounded pretty good. I thought that if these sound so good new hifi speakers would sound phenomenal. After auditioning 4 brands ranging from USD 750 to 1500 I felt that my existing speakers play well enough for my satisfaction and I use them till date.
Cut to Sep 2020, I helped a friend to narrow down the choice of buying an AVR to a MArantz NR1510 AVR. We are now in the process of getting speakers. From our experiend of the old Philips speakers I felt that we could go the DIY route and build some decent speakers. Proven drivers in a reasonably well designed enclosures in terms of getting the basics correct such as internal volume, material thickness, bracing, port size and length and some fancy 'Golden Ratio' dimensions thrown in we should be good. :)
This is my first DIY but I have a background in Physics and have worked as a sound recordist for 13yrs. I have experience working with recording equipment, building cables, taking technical decisions etc.
On paper, with my skill level, I think its possible to get fairly close to the general sound quality of a 300-400 dollar stereo speaker with this approach. I wanted to know if my thinking is correct and hence the post.
1st build is always difficult and exciting also. Any properly researched DIY project will compete at least 2x or 3x price range products if not more. A full range speaker driver like TB W5 2143 will always excel in midrange but will fall short on extremes of sound spectrum and more so towards low frequencies due its limited X-max. On the other hand less excursion produces less distortion which helps to deliver cleaner midrange with details. A helping woofer will be much usefull to deliver the low end if crossed in the range of 250 to 450 Hertz. A midbass woofer is preferred as it will contribute for the lower midrange below cross over point(160 hertz to crossover point). This will take off the load from the W5 2143 and reduce excursion which will further improve the performance in the midrange. Most people like to bi-amp this approach using an active crossover or mini-dsp, but passive crossover can work also if designed carefully.
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