Previously, for 2018 I built a full range floor stander with help from this forum using the Dayton Audio PS220-8 8" and the contour network from Curt's Singularity. I am very happy with the final result.
For 2020, looking to build a full range bookshelf speaker. I am recycling two way cabinets with a 14 liter internal volume and a front baffle of 168mm.
Tentatively looking at the Tang Band W5-2143 5" Paper Cone Full Range Driver and adding the Dayton Audio DC28FT-8 1-1/8" Silkie tweeter. The only other component being a cap 1uF to 2uF to the tweeter.
Nothing has been ordered. Looking for advice from this forum before proceeding.
Thanks,
Joseph
For 2020, looking to build a full range bookshelf speaker. I am recycling two way cabinets with a 14 liter internal volume and a front baffle of 168mm.
Tentatively looking at the Tang Band W5-2143 5" Paper Cone Full Range Driver and adding the Dayton Audio DC28FT-8 1-1/8" Silkie tweeter. The only other component being a cap 1uF to 2uF to the tweeter.
Nothing has been ordered. Looking for advice from this forum before proceeding.
Thanks,
Joseph
Lots of ideas in these other threads:
Enclosure for Tang Band w5-2143
XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass
TABAQ TL for Tang Band
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
Enclosure for Tang Band w5-2143
XKi - X's ab initio Karlson 6th Order Bandpass
TABAQ TL for Tang Band
Mini Karlsonator (0.53X) with Dual TC9FD's
House rules, I have to use stock on hand, so I can change the components in 30 year old no name bookshelf speaker cabinets. Looking for a project that will fit in the current 14 liter internal volume and a front baffle of 168mm.
Interested in a full range driver for too reasons. One, I am happy with my floorstanders, old KEF cabinets, Dayton Audio PS220-8, 8" passive radiator, and the contour network from Curt's Singularity. Two, with minimal caps, inductors and resistors, most of the budget($200-$300 USD) can go to the drivers.
Happy for any and all suggestions. Full range or a standard two way.
Thanks,
Joseph
Interested in a full range driver for too reasons. One, I am happy with my floorstanders, old KEF cabinets, Dayton Audio PS220-8, 8" passive radiator, and the contour network from Curt's Singularity. Two, with minimal caps, inductors and resistors, most of the budget($200-$300 USD) can go to the drivers.
Happy for any and all suggestions. Full range or a standard two way.
Thanks,
Joseph
Anyone have experience with this driver in a shallow enclosure? I am looking to build a small wall-mount with a sealed W5-2143 crossed over to an LD-22 tweeter around 3 or 4 kHz. The W6 Coax caught my eye as well but I read some concerns re: QC and getting them to Canada will be costly.
I am trying to design a small wall-mount speaker and previously was going to build an LDW7/Alpair 5 wall-mounted FAST but am changing directions for a few reasons.
1. I am able to add a subwoofer in the room so bass extension/impact is not as critical.
2. Size, I can reduce the size from the LDW-7/Alpair combo.
3. Aesthetics, the cone looks very attractive in the colour/wood combo I need for the room.
4. I know the unit extends into the highs well but I need to prioritize off-axis performance in this application somewhat so due to dispersion concerns I am adding a tweeter.
My question is:
How does this unit work in shallow boxes? I know that coloration can be an issue in shallow boxes. I was really hoping to limit internal cabinet depth to approximately 4" or 5".
I am trying to design a small wall-mount speaker and previously was going to build an LDW7/Alpair 5 wall-mounted FAST but am changing directions for a few reasons.
1. I am able to add a subwoofer in the room so bass extension/impact is not as critical.
2. Size, I can reduce the size from the LDW-7/Alpair combo.
3. Aesthetics, the cone looks very attractive in the colour/wood combo I need for the room.
4. I know the unit extends into the highs well but I need to prioritize off-axis performance in this application somewhat so due to dispersion concerns I am adding a tweeter.
My question is:
How does this unit work in shallow boxes? I know that coloration can be an issue in shallow boxes. I was really hoping to limit internal cabinet depth to approximately 4" or 5".
Try lining box with “magic eraser” melamine foam pads. They absorb sound really well (same as BASF Basotect). EBay has them 100 for $7. Sealed works well and wall mount eliminates baffle step loss so you get true 90dB sensitivity. Highs are excellent on this driver as is the bass. Sealed is heard to get below 150Hz though unless large volume.
Thanks xrk971. That product looks like a good option to control the reverb on the back wave. Do you know how this material works in terms of affecting "effective enclosure volume"? It obviously occupies a volume, is that volume "lost" in terms of box performance?
This system will be managed through a DSP and won't be used at loud volume so I am hopeful I can apply some low-end lift to allow sufficient extension for a crossover in the 100Hz range.
I am also debating two options:
1) W5 and LD22 in 2-way arrangement, crossed over @ 4th order 3-4kHz.
2) W5 full-range, LD22 Top-firing HP 2nd order at 2.5-3kHz.
First arrangement has the LD22 entirely taking over the high-end duties, second arrangement would have the LD22 essentially just throwing higher frequencies into the air to help even out apparent frequency response off-axis and create more high-end excitement. Is this considered poor technique?
The setup would be DSP controlled and bi-amped so I have alot of control over how they integrate and have the option to adjust it "on-the-fly" by adjusting the volume of the tweeter amplifier.
I am curious if experimenting with the phase shifting of the tweeter will have significant effect. Who knows what the phase interaction will be like after the highs bounce off the back wall and then the ceiling before interacting with the HF in the room.
1) W5 and LD22 in 2-way arrangement, crossed over @ 4th order 3-4kHz.
2) W5 full-range, LD22 Top-firing HP 2nd order at 2.5-3kHz.
First arrangement has the LD22 entirely taking over the high-end duties, second arrangement would have the LD22 essentially just throwing higher frequencies into the air to help even out apparent frequency response off-axis and create more high-end excitement. Is this considered poor technique?
The setup would be DSP controlled and bi-amped so I have alot of control over how they integrate and have the option to adjust it "on-the-fly" by adjusting the volume of the tweeter amplifier.
I am curious if experimenting with the phase shifting of the tweeter will have significant effect. Who knows what the phase interaction will be like after the highs bounce off the back wall and then the ceiling before interacting with the HF in the room.
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Bubble wrap is not porous so actually reduces volume of the rear sealed chamber. If that’s your goal I guess it’s ok, although I would go for something more inert as the bubbles make noise when squeezed and pressurized. Crinkly plastic sound which can add to distortion. Porous foams, felt, Dacron batting, fiberglass, polyfill, etc all increase the apparent volume of the chamber. Some more than others. The finer the void, and the lower the void volume, the larger the increase in the apparent volume and the better the sound absorption. This is why the melamine foam works so well. It is a nano structure with very low void volume and high porosity. Also, it’s non flammable and doesn’t rot and smell putrid in 20yrs like polyurethane foam does.
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Back to the original post, any comments on: Tang Band W5-2143 5" Paper Cone Full Range Driver and adding the Dayton Audio DC28FT-8 1-1/8" Silkie tweeter. The only other component being a cap 1uF to 2uF to the tweeter. Cabinets with a 14 liter internal volume and a front baffle of 168mm. Also open to any alternative driver recommendations that fit my cabinets.
Thanks,
Joseph
And remember the house rules, I can modify existing stuff, not buy more stuff.
Thanks,
Joseph
And remember the house rules, I can modify existing stuff, not buy more stuff.
Hi Joseph,
I have the TB W5s in a 10-12 liter memory bass reflex with a Peerless XT25TG30-04 tweeter cut to 12khz with a 1ohms resistor and 1uf capacitor (from memory, but I can confirm). The tweeter is not needed but it adds a bit more extreme high. The bass of the W5 in BR is relatively good. The W5 is an easy going fullrange and gives no hearing fatigue.
These strengths: excellent with acoustic music and vocals.
I have the TB W5s in a 10-12 liter memory bass reflex with a Peerless XT25TG30-04 tweeter cut to 12khz with a 1ohms resistor and 1uf capacitor (from memory, but I can confirm). The tweeter is not needed but it adds a bit more extreme high. The bass of the W5 in BR is relatively good. The W5 is an easy going fullrange and gives no hearing fatigue.
These strengths: excellent with acoustic music and vocals.
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