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Speaker damping paint/coating
Speaker damping paint/coating
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Old 20th May 2020, 02:28 AM   #1
perkri is offline perkri  Canada
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Default Speaker damping paint/coating

Hi.

Been looking all over for some answers to what would work as a damping spray/paint/coating for the interior of the enclosure?

Not sure if this is even something that should be done?

Not like it'll be easy to remove once applied.

I've built two sets of speakers from plans off the Frugal-Horn site Double mouth BVR's

(Kongo and Kirishima)

Want to coat the interiors to deaden the "boxes"

Has anyone done this?

If so, what materials have been used and to what effect?

Thank you in advance,

Per
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Old 20th May 2020, 04:16 AM   #2
JMFahey is online now JMFahey  Argentina
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Paint is too thin to damp anything.
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Old 20th May 2020, 04:27 AM   #3
carlthess40 is offline carlthess40  United States
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Lead shot in any of the small spaces and in the corners. Must be small lead balls
Lead is very soft. And you can even get sheets of it from a roofing supply store
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Old 20th May 2020, 11:02 AM   #4
perkri is offline perkri  Canada
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Thank you for your thoughts!

Has anyone used Boom Mat Spray or LizardSkin?

There is also Acousti Coat and Acoust X

Wondering if there was any success with any of these?

P
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Old 20th May 2020, 01:42 PM   #5
Scottmoose is offline Scottmoose  United Kingdom
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You are aware that this is more or less the inverse of the design intention?

You cannot erradicate panel resonance. Not in this physical reality. All you can do is move its Fs and harmonic modes to a region where they are less likely to be excited, i.e. preferably outside the main operating BW of the enclosure. Which gives two options, down or up in frequency. The former requires very large quantities of mass (concrete levels) in order to move the panel Fs and its harmonic modes sufficiently below the operating BW of a bass enclosure for them not to be triggered. The alternative is to increase panel rigidity sufficiently to push the panel Fs significantly above the operating BW of the enclosure (which also raises its Q) where there is little energy left to excite it. Adding significant mass to the panels of this enclosure simply lowers their Fs toward the region where it is more likely to become excited.
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Old 20th May 2020, 01:49 PM   #6
perkri is offline perkri  Canada
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^^^ Thanks Scott! As always, you provide perfect, rational reasons why I should or shouldn't do something!

They shall stay as they are (until I get proper binding posts and wire inside them)
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Old 20th May 2020, 02:07 PM   #7
KaffiMann is offline KaffiMann  Norway
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Speaker damping paint/coating
Another way is to use a design that lessen the impact of resonant behaviour, or to make internal surfaces that to various extent helps direct the internal resonances away from the driver.

This is more or less what Scott here is saying.
Pending on the design, some BLH's can be great at that. Intentionally directing the energy to something useful, as opposed to something unwanted.
Sealed TL's is another example, but they work more towards dampening the internal reflections rather than making them more useful.

Otherwise:
If you have a sub, you'd want to brace it to get a higher resnonance than the band of frequencies you're using it for.
If you have a "top" or small FR box/enclosure, you'd ideally also want to get the resonance outside of the intended passband, but it can be more difficult since making a box with lower resonance in some cases make things worse. Internal braces with reflective surfaces can in some cases help direct the energy away from problem areas, but it can be difficult to plan for small details like that.

In a hurry so don't have time to look things over, or elaborate further...
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Old 20th May 2020, 09:01 PM   #8
waxx is offline waxx  Belgium
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What i did in my 2 way WAW setup, is making the top following the bbc principle (mass loaded lossy cabinet) where the front and back are screwed with rubber seal in between on the cabinet and the rest is damped with bitumen to bring the reonance frequency outside the passband (<200Hz). The cabinet has to be made from thinner plywood (i used 12mm).

The sub is reverse, 18mm plywood and heavy braced to bring the resonance up to above the passband (> 300Hz). The crossover between the two seperate boxes is at 250Hz now (after a lot o tinkering to get it right).

This worked out better than i expected. The sound is way more open than the same drivers with more or less the same crossover in the previous version.

But like said before, with the speakers you build, the resonance of the cabinet is inherent to the design, so damping it will mess up the sound.
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Old 20th May 2020, 09:29 PM   #9
Scottmoose is offline Scottmoose  United Kingdom
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I think we need to be a little careful here to distinguish what is under discussion. The question was about panel damping, not acoustic damping. These are functionally very different matters (and I should add that these enclosures were certainly not designed to have audible panel resonance).

Adding panel damping (mass damping) will not significantly alter the acoustic behaviour of the horn. All it will do is lower the resonant frequency of the panels -likely to a region where they are more, not less, likely to be triggered and cause unwanted audible colouration. Adding acoustic damping (e.g. various felts, fibreglass, jute, stuffing etc.) conversely will damp the acoustic output of the horn, which was not what was being asked.
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Last edited by Scottmoose; 20th May 2020 at 09:33 PM.
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Old 20th May 2020, 11:44 PM   #10
jjasniew is offline jjasniew  United States
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Now I understand all the interleaved, swiss-cheesed internal panel matrix I see in some cabinet designs. It's all an elaborate panel brace / cabinet stiffener!
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