Around 12L.
Box dimensions were fixed to match tv stand, here the looks was very important. I didn't want bass, just clear and clean mids. Owner is pretty deaf and the object was improve speech inteligibility.
Víctor
Not sure if meniscus will ship to Europe and stay in your budget
I built the overnight sensations center and I really enjoy the clarity it brings to the dialog in movies
Here is a link
Overnight Sensation Center Speaker Kit - Meniscus Audio
I built the overnight sensations center and I really enjoy the clarity it brings to the dialog in movies
Here is a link
Overnight Sensation Center Speaker Kit - Meniscus Audio
I have been reading this thread as I want to create a decent sound system to a 1970 4WD Toyota Land Cruiser which has been restored in its stock configuration.
These models had only a dash radio and two speakers sitting below the dashboard, at the passenger’s footwell. For obvious aesthetic reasons, there isn’t the possibility to add speakers to the vehicle front doors or dashboard or footwell.
I have the idea to build a “removable sound bar” which could also be taken out of the vehicle when camping and partying. This soundbar would be placed inside the cabin at roofline level, behind the front passenger seats and in front of the cargo / passengers area.
For those not too familiar with what I want to do, let’s say this soundbar design would look very much like a “jeep soundbar” (thanks google) except that it would be not be fixed on a roll cage with Velcros but clamped inside the cabin, on the L+R side of the roof.
In terms of materials, I would rather stick to marine plywood (8-10-12mm) for durability. It could always be strengthened internally with bracing, fiberglass mat, add some dampening material…
For the front panel, preferably plywood but may be some MDF and the help of a CNC machine if we need to create complex shapes (like angling the loudspeakers). Finished with paint used for flighcase.
Internal available volume for the sound bar would range between 25 and 35 liters. Maximum 40 liters
If need be, I could also add a separate “portable bass box” in the cargo compartment (60cm x 30cm x 30cm so +/-50 liters ), although I am not looking for a bass shattering system.
- System must have good off-axis response and/or a design with angled loudspeakers
- Bar is located behind the front passengers, roughly at less than 1m from front passengers ears and from 1 to 3m for passenger sitting in the cargo area
- The cabin inside is like a big “metal box” with 90% reflective surface (metal, glass). No sound dampening whatsoever, no carpets
- This is a rustic 4x4 so we do ear the engine and the gear train
- Source would be a modern car radio/CD Player and audio files (via Bluetooth or hard wired)
- System and loudspeakers must be able to cope with winter cold and dampness (night) as well as heat (sometimes 55c inside the cabin when truck left in the sun) and wide temperature variations
- Budget for speakers and filters (including separate bass box if need be) around 400 US$
If anyone could share some design ideas and speaker recommendations, this would be much appreciated.
Thanks to all.
These models had only a dash radio and two speakers sitting below the dashboard, at the passenger’s footwell. For obvious aesthetic reasons, there isn’t the possibility to add speakers to the vehicle front doors or dashboard or footwell.
I have the idea to build a “removable sound bar” which could also be taken out of the vehicle when camping and partying. This soundbar would be placed inside the cabin at roofline level, behind the front passenger seats and in front of the cargo / passengers area.
For those not too familiar with what I want to do, let’s say this soundbar design would look very much like a “jeep soundbar” (thanks google) except that it would be not be fixed on a roll cage with Velcros but clamped inside the cabin, on the L+R side of the roof.
In terms of materials, I would rather stick to marine plywood (8-10-12mm) for durability. It could always be strengthened internally with bracing, fiberglass mat, add some dampening material…
For the front panel, preferably plywood but may be some MDF and the help of a CNC machine if we need to create complex shapes (like angling the loudspeakers). Finished with paint used for flighcase.
Internal available volume for the sound bar would range between 25 and 35 liters. Maximum 40 liters
If need be, I could also add a separate “portable bass box” in the cargo compartment (60cm x 30cm x 30cm so +/-50 liters ), although I am not looking for a bass shattering system.
- System must have good off-axis response and/or a design with angled loudspeakers
- Bar is located behind the front passengers, roughly at less than 1m from front passengers ears and from 1 to 3m for passenger sitting in the cargo area
- The cabin inside is like a big “metal box” with 90% reflective surface (metal, glass). No sound dampening whatsoever, no carpets
- This is a rustic 4x4 so we do ear the engine and the gear train
- Source would be a modern car radio/CD Player and audio files (via Bluetooth or hard wired)
- System and loudspeakers must be able to cope with winter cold and dampness (night) as well as heat (sometimes 55c inside the cabin when truck left in the sun) and wide temperature variations
- Budget for speakers and filters (including separate bass box if need be) around 400 US$
If anyone could share some design ideas and speaker recommendations, this would be much appreciated.
Thanks to all.
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Just a quick example:
Dayton Audio rs-225-4 as a woofer in about a 45l ported box would reach down to 38Hz
Add two Dayton Audio rs100-4 as full rangers in a 2.8l ported box each that would go down to about 75Hz or 0.8l box where those would go down to about 145Hz
X over at 100Hz for ported or about 200Hz for sealed and you'd be golden.
A simple 3116d2 2.1 amp equiped with line in and bluetooth should do the job just fine.
Dayton Audio rs-225-4 as a woofer in about a 45l ported box would reach down to 38Hz
Add two Dayton Audio rs100-4 as full rangers in a 2.8l ported box each that would go down to about 75Hz or 0.8l box where those would go down to about 145Hz
X over at 100Hz for ported or about 200Hz for sealed and you'd be golden.
A simple 3116d2 2.1 amp equiped with line in and bluetooth should do the job just fine.
Well... Soundbar is essentially 2 speaker boxes glued together, so you can build any popular speaker design, "glue" them together and call it a day. As this is portable design there must be taken care of its durability and usability, at the expense of some sound quality. Things as metal corner bindings, protective speaker grilles and so on.
Regarding speaker drivers there may be 3 ways for you to go:
1. Go for cheap speaker driver, smth of PA series of any manufacturer. My experience is shallow, but I recommend Faital 3FE25 or bigger 4FE. They are dirt cheap in Europe, tremendous value for money, high sensitivity, built like bulletproof tank, and the sound is surprisingly good. Not waterproof. If you need more power - then I dont know... If the drivers are gone by some reason, then buy new.
2. Go for waterproof drivers: polypropylene cone or built as bathroom speakers and so on. Visaton, Monacor have some. They are bit more expensive and the sound quality will be worse.
3. Car audio manufacturers probably have something to offer. Simple cheap car audio speakers, even second hand will have everything you need: coaxial full range, aluminum cone, good mounting options and so on. 100EUR for the big Pioneers and you have heaps of power.
The box construction will be a headache... Even marine plywood if constantly under sun, and rain will go south very quick. You need to laminate it very very well. If the cost is no problem, I would buy couple sheets of HDPE or PP (both affordable), UV resistant of course, of ~5-10mm thickness, CNC it and weld it with extruder (tool is from ~3k EUR, so the labor will be not cheap). Internal box bracing is required as the material is pretty elastic. 100 years of lifetime is achievable, maintenance is near 0, durability is of the "indestructable" level. Esthetics are pretty low though, material is durable but scratchy. If the requirements in bold are priority there is not much alternatives to those plastics. I know, because I build smth from time to time
. Marine plywood is not even comparable. You can check HDPE durability videos on internet, they are true. Btw, black HDPE water pipe cut to required length and thickness may be cheap option to start with.
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I just got a couple of W3-1401SD, still waiting for the cabinets arriving. I tested the driver for a while and it sound pretty good indeed. You may consider them also.
W3-1401SD - 3" Alum Full Range - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
W3-1401SD - 3" Alum Full Range - TB SPEAKER CO., LTD.
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Faital 3FE25, Faital 3FE25, Faital 3FE25... I cannot think better value for money, especially as you are so close to THLP. Maybe go for 4FE Faital.
Other cheap options: Visaton FRS8 without M is a better driver, Fountek FE86, it really exists, and undying classic: Vifa TC9!
I believe you are right, but, on the other hand: A modern smart TV is a handy media player also for playing music with it. The TV set supports USB memory sticks, YouTube, etc. and also any DVD player or Blu-Ray player can play CD records. So, it makes sense to connect decent speakers to a TV set.
Usual speakers should do just fine. But there are couple cases for a soundbar:
- There is not enough space for speakers on the sides of the TV set.
- The TV set is standing on a table or shelf that is not high enough, so it would be good to have something to elevate the TV set more.
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