More: the tweeter usually has ferrofluid for "just one cap for HP" as it stops oscillation of the membrane at resonant frequency.
About increasing mid's capacitor: Yes it's better to let it play some broader range but it has do be made with woofer response in mind, i.e. also lowpassing the Wf ( alittle bit, just a little bit).
Lowpassing the Wf means also a different "presentation" of the speaker as it allows some BSC
About increasing mid's capacitor: Yes it's better to let it play some broader range but it has do be made with woofer response in mind, i.e. also lowpassing the Wf ( alittle bit, just a little bit).
Lowpassing the Wf means also a different "presentation" of the speaker as it allows some BSC
Let's say 10uF, just to be on the safe side!
Your photograph of the capacitors is out of focus, but I have my suspicions that these may be ordinary polarised (+/-) capacitors and not the non polarised (NP) types that must be used for loudspeaker crossovers.
I strongly urge you to replace these capacitors with plastic film (polypropylene) NP capacitors, designed for crossover use - like these:
Monacor 2.2uf 250V 5% Bipolar MKP Polypropylene Capacitor - Willys-Hifi Ltd
Monacor 10uf 250V MKP 5% Bipolar Polypropylene Capacitor - Willys-Hifi Ltd
Galu! You were completely right regarding raising the capacity. I tested it with an open and playing box. with 6,6uF and 13,2uF. At 13,2 the mids were audibly clearer and louder.
It is now soildered so i do not touch it again to try to make 10,2uF by combining 1uF capacitors.
Yes you are right the capacitors are not exatly what they should be but the original once were the same. So it is definitely better now. I will think about ordering PP Caps soon.
The bass cone still did not arrive due to misrouting at the delivery company.
By the way what coil should i put on the bass speaker?
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AFAIK it is not AC at least not for my type of amp. AC is only when the amp is symetric. I have only asymetric amps and there you have the sinusoide shifted all into +. but yes once i would build/get a symetric amp it would be a problem.
pico is not talking about amplifiers, he is emphasising what I have said - the capacitors in loudspeaker crossovers MUST be bipolar/non polar types and NOT ordinary polar (+/-) types as are found inside amplifiers. If you are not aware of the difference, then be sure to buy polypropylene capacitors as I have recommended.
e3k, just to clarify for you and others who may be lurking- Galu is not recommending a "better" grade of capacitor as an upgrade.
He is recommending the only appropriate type of capacitor for crossover duty. They must be non-polarized, regardless of type, to properly pass the AC electrical signal.
From there, it is your decision as to how much you want to spend on them.
He is recommending the only appropriate type of capacitor for crossover duty. They must be non-polarized, regardless of type, to properly pass the AC electrical signal.
From there, it is your decision as to how much you want to spend on them.
tried it but 4 towards one direction did sound better. unless i would try to put another 4 on the 4 in the opposite.
well the project spread. i was fixing one box at friend same design and original bass. his setup of caps was different. 1uF on tweeters and 3.3uF on mids. i did the same as at home with mine and it definitely raised the audibility of both. the funny thing was that with 9.9uF the mids were still not awake but with 13.2uF they spoke loud and clear. did not expect quantum effects there... this means i have got to change the order now as i ordered 10uF and 12 is probably the better choice.
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i would like to spend for cuprum capacitors but can spend only for aluminium. Anyway there is even now a considerable increase in sound quality now after setting a polarized higher capacity. Please do not take my ideas wrong i am just learning electronics on fly
the bass cone arrived. after installing i was thinking about testing it a bit but ended up listening whole fip.fr JAZZ session. now it is almost perfect.
the mids are a bit not audible. was testing that with the equalizer at 1kHZ. not sure if i have to play with the capacity of the caps again (the coil of the bass is massive compared to what was inside before) or if it is just the old mids speaker...
the mids are a bit not audible. was testing that with the equalizer at 1kHZ. not sure if i have to play with the capacity of the caps again (the coil of the bass is massive compared to what was inside before) or if it is just the old mids speaker...
How did you perform the battery test? The capacitor in series with the mid will prevent DC from reaching it if you simply connected the battery to the complete system.
Have you fitted polypropylene capacitors yet and, if so, which values? Which value of inductor did you fit?
And remember, you went off and bought a replacement bass speaker without waiting for advice as regards its suitabilility...
All the substitutions which have been suggested must be carried out before the performance of the system can be evaluated.
Have you fitted polypropylene capacitors yet and, if so, which values? Which value of inductor did you fit?
And remember, you went off and bought a replacement bass speaker without waiting for advice as regards its suitabilility...
All the substitutions which have been suggested must be carried out before the performance of the system can be evaluated.
i did try to connect a 1,2V NiMH accumulator on the complete system and checked if the membranes move. all went to the bass and nothing to mids they did not move at all. the tweeters are working fine.
the PP caps are on its way now and will reach me this week i guess.
yes i admit i do not have much experience in doing a bass cone replacement. first time for me. before i did caps replacements only and 1:1.
lets see what the PP caps will do once i have got them. and thank you for your patience.
the PP caps are on its way now and will reach me this week i guess.
yes i admit i do not have much experience in doing a bass cone replacement. first time for me. before i did caps replacements only and 1:1.
lets see what the PP caps will do once i have got them. and thank you for your patience.
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