Alright, I’m going at this again.
I’m and so is my wife, tired of trying to watch movies when she is asleep. The latest Superman animated “red son” (excellent if you are into that) was hard to get dialog (Superman is Russian) at low volumes With the 12” 2-ways.
Bear with me as I only compared 8” to 2-ways today for maybe 5 minutes b4 going to work.
At 7’, 1 pair of ears dispersion, and it needed 3 blocks under front edge.
Easier to understand than My 12” 2 ways on “blade runner 2049” where Harrison Ford is talking to Ryan gosling after they fought. And The voice isn’t a hazy blob 6’ wide. But remember I sit closer than the speakers are wide, I’ll measure tonight. The side bounces are null because the left speaker has a couch next to it blocking wall bounce, and the right speaker has a wall over 12’ away.
So I will keep posting if anyone wants.
I had to increase the loudness knob (trickier than a button) and the bass knob didn’t help much (set near 50hz). I may run a separate receiver just for the tang band (Late night movies) and another for the jbls (music and bass), so I don’t keep playing with the tone controls.
So need to play more then maybe add baffle step or use it to get the bass up at the right frequencies.
Norman
I’m and so is my wife, tired of trying to watch movies when she is asleep. The latest Superman animated “red son” (excellent if you are into that) was hard to get dialog (Superman is Russian) at low volumes With the 12” 2-ways.
Bear with me as I only compared 8” to 2-ways today for maybe 5 minutes b4 going to work.
At 7’, 1 pair of ears dispersion, and it needed 3 blocks under front edge.
Easier to understand than My 12” 2 ways on “blade runner 2049” where Harrison Ford is talking to Ryan gosling after they fought. And The voice isn’t a hazy blob 6’ wide. But remember I sit closer than the speakers are wide, I’ll measure tonight. The side bounces are null because the left speaker has a couch next to it blocking wall bounce, and the right speaker has a wall over 12’ away.
So I will keep posting if anyone wants.
I had to increase the loudness knob (trickier than a button) and the bass knob didn’t help much (set near 50hz). I may run a separate receiver just for the tang band (Late night movies) and another for the jbls (music and bass), so I don’t keep playing with the tone controls.
So need to play more then maybe add baffle step or use it to get the bass up at the right frequencies.
Norman
One option to consider...
If you really want to enjoy the full effect of the audio while you wife is asleep and you don't want to wake her up, consider listening (watching) with a nice pair of headphones.
Either wireless or the wired kind.
There are some really nice offerings out there.
And keep your 12" setup for when you are watching movies together.
If you really want to enjoy the full effect of the audio while you wife is asleep and you don't want to wake her up, consider listening (watching) with a nice pair of headphones.
Either wireless or the wired kind.
There are some really nice offerings out there.
And keep your 12" setup for when you are watching movies together.
Yea, I'm old.
I like blu ray player straight into 30 year old receivers.
No plug ins.
No dsp.
Didn't mind my onkyo 5.1 receiver, but my nakamichi sounds better (no global feedback).
Realized that i didn't do a fair comparison of 12" 2-ways vs single 8" full range.
8" needs bass boost to me.
But bass wise, it is unfair to compare 1 x 8" vs 2 x 12".
And point source under tv does a better job anchoring voice to tv.
So, it is an apples to oranges comparison.
The 2145 actually has a bit of climb, that to my ears needs bass boost to balance it (not even mentioning baffle step).
I remember the w8-1772 with its climbing response needed 10db or so worked into baffle step (bob brines). Can't remember width of mltl.
I'll post a freq response measured from overseas later tonight.
Don't get me wrong, it is excellent and 1/2 the cost of 1808 (too hot 1-4khz) or 1772 (climbing response).
I just need to get it dialed in.
For an 8" full range, $200 plus you make boxes, price of entry is very reasonable.
I'd love to see others build some mltl, ported, whatever and dial in some passive baffle step circuits for us.
Should be fairly easy due to its flattish z-curve.
Grr, full range drivers have sucked me back into them.
Norman
I like blu ray player straight into 30 year old receivers.
No plug ins.
No dsp.
Didn't mind my onkyo 5.1 receiver, but my nakamichi sounds better (no global feedback).
Realized that i didn't do a fair comparison of 12" 2-ways vs single 8" full range.
8" needs bass boost to me.
But bass wise, it is unfair to compare 1 x 8" vs 2 x 12".
And point source under tv does a better job anchoring voice to tv.
So, it is an apples to oranges comparison.
The 2145 actually has a bit of climb, that to my ears needs bass boost to balance it (not even mentioning baffle step).
I remember the w8-1772 with its climbing response needed 10db or so worked into baffle step (bob brines). Can't remember width of mltl.
I'll post a freq response measured from overseas later tonight.
Don't get me wrong, it is excellent and 1/2 the cost of 1808 (too hot 1-4khz) or 1772 (climbing response).
I just need to get it dialed in.
For an 8" full range, $200 plus you make boxes, price of entry is very reasonable.
I'd love to see others build some mltl, ported, whatever and dial in some passive baffle step circuits for us.
Should be fairly easy due to its flattish z-curve.
Grr, full range drivers have sucked me back into them.
Norman
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Djk would do a crossover board sitting in the sweet spot in the room for a truly custom speaker.
I think I’ll order a few inductors and a l-pad.
Mount them to a board with an l-pad in parallel.
Run wires from receiver to where I sit ( the board) then run wires back to the speaker.
It can be useful down the road to do baffle step for other full range driver setups.
My receivers 50hz bass knob is dialed in perfectly for my jbl’s (tunes and f9 at 50hz).
I think I’ll order a few inductors and a l-pad.
Mount them to a board with an l-pad in parallel.
Run wires from receiver to where I sit ( the board) then run wires back to the speaker.
It can be useful down the road to do baffle step for other full range driver setups.
My receivers 50hz bass knob is dialed in perfectly for my jbl’s (tunes and f9 at 50hz).
thank you.
I'm thinking of remaking the box.
This time...............
Front baffle 1 piece (no lines).
Driver flush mount (not counter sunk).
Box exact same size, maybe ported.
And get that driver right up against top of the box, bring dialog closer to the tv instead of the floor.
Here is the proposed box.
I'm thinking of remaking the box.
This time...............
Front baffle 1 piece (no lines).
Driver flush mount (not counter sunk).
Box exact same size, maybe ported.
And get that driver right up against top of the box, bring dialog closer to the tv instead of the floor.
Here is the proposed box.
Attachments
Was just curious what low end SPL might be in full space on that baffle.
Its around 86 dB. So depends how aggressive you want to get with parallel notches.
Keep in mind that is sim assuming 220 cm2 SD. So real world the Second cone
might hold up a little better.
I can get it with relatively low Q notches so not much is lost off axis.
The peak at the top can be done with A high Q series. But likely not a
issue. looks like it would. In reality and can see just 10 degrees off and that
goes away.
just quick sim values, obviously would be changed to standard values
If you really want high Q notch at top end
real life likely not needed. just looks good in sim
Be too much off axis.
Its around 86 dB. So depends how aggressive you want to get with parallel notches.
Keep in mind that is sim assuming 220 cm2 SD. So real world the Second cone
might hold up a little better.
I can get it with relatively low Q notches so not much is lost off axis.
The peak at the top can be done with A high Q series. But likely not a
issue. looks like it would. In reality and can see just 10 degrees off and that
goes away.
just quick sim values, obviously would be changed to standard values
If you really want high Q notch at top end
real life likely not needed. just looks good in sim
Be too much off axis.
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Honestly, sitting on the floor close to the wall, I thought it just needed bass boost.
Listening maybe 70-80db, I need a bunch of Fletcher Munson curve boost.
I've always needed smiley face on a 10 band equalizer.
And far field, hf isn't as strong due to lack of dispersion.
Being 51, the Hf boosted is fine to my ears.
Listening maybe 70-80db, I need a bunch of Fletcher Munson curve boost.
I've always needed smiley face on a 10 band equalizer.
And far field, hf isn't as strong due to lack of dispersion.
Being 51, the Hf boosted is fine to my ears.
No problem.
I was just curious about the driver overall as well.
Downside I guess is passive filters are cut only.
So efficiency has to be brought down to 86 dB
Then bass would be apparent.
Then again looking at the easier way is basically a slight
bass boost on a simple 2 band EQ on many receiver's / amplifiers.
Remember seeing a review on youtube of some old Yamaha receivers.
Think so at least, trying find it.
anyways point is the Treble and Bass EQ could be shifted with a switch.
Bass was 450 Hz or 250 Hz. Which seemed pretty smart feature.
with this speaker could set it too 250 Hz give it about 6 dB
and be all done.
8" wideband will behave like a 8"
I dont mind either I have a liking to 8" as well.
And either way a 8" wideband makes a good 2 way.
The tweeter can be crossed at the usual 3k
And the second cone holds up well to the crossover point.
Because Sim diffraction wont exactly represent them exactly.
Because the model assumes the larger SD
I was just curious about the driver overall as well.
Downside I guess is passive filters are cut only.
So efficiency has to be brought down to 86 dB
Then bass would be apparent.
Then again looking at the easier way is basically a slight
bass boost on a simple 2 band EQ on many receiver's / amplifiers.
Remember seeing a review on youtube of some old Yamaha receivers.
Think so at least, trying find it.
anyways point is the Treble and Bass EQ could be shifted with a switch.
Bass was 450 Hz or 250 Hz. Which seemed pretty smart feature.
with this speaker could set it too 250 Hz give it about 6 dB
and be all done.
8" wideband will behave like a 8"
I dont mind either I have a liking to 8" as well.
And either way a 8" wideband makes a good 2 way.
The tweeter can be crossed at the usual 3k
And the second cone holds up well to the crossover point.
Because Sim diffraction wont exactly represent them exactly.
Because the model assumes the larger SD
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