Hello,
I have finished constructing a pair of the aforementioned horns and notice a lack of the low end.
I suspect it is due to one or several mistakes:
The front is angled while the back is straight (evident in the picture)
Perhaps, this directs sound from the speaker upwards and decreases the opening of the rear horn.
Fir instead of birch plywood
Terminals are duct taped, as I have lost the screws
P.S what is the ideal positioning of these speakers in a small room?
Thank you in advance,
I have finished constructing a pair of the aforementioned horns and notice a lack of the low end.
I suspect it is due to one or several mistakes:
The front is angled while the back is straight (evident in the picture)
Perhaps, this directs sound from the speaker upwards and decreases the opening of the rear horn.
Fir instead of birch plywood
Terminals are duct taped, as I have lost the screws
P.S what is the ideal positioning of these speakers in a small room?
Thank you in advance,
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The Advent woofers & the alignment are completely different beasts and the speaker a 2-way with a crossover. An 8” is not that much smaller than the 10” Advent and the Advent woofer is MIA above about 2k.
The enclosure is a major element in getting bass gain needed to deal with the low Q and small linear excursion. But it is still a small horn and low bass will be very room and room placement dependent.
A couple questions: 1/ How many hrs on the drivers? 2/ What amp are you using.
A leak in the horn can have significant impact.
And fir is probably not as stiff as good plywood, but likely better than MDF.
dave
The enclosure is a major element in getting bass gain needed to deal with the low Q and small linear excursion. But it is still a small horn and low bass will be very room and room placement dependent.
A couple questions: 1/ How many hrs on the drivers? 2/ What amp are you using.
A leak in the horn can have significant impact.
And fir is probably not as stiff as good plywood, but likely better than MDF.
dave
This may be my first full range speaker, nonetheless I am hoping for a bit more bass.Minor changes in the flare should not affect bass response.
Are your expectation realistic? A basshorn has less bass than a bassreflex box of similiar size. Leakage can lead to problems...
I thought the terminals to be air tight with duct tape...
Thank you,
About 50 hours
I am currently using a Raspberry Pi Digi Amp - 35 watts per channel
Not enough break-in hours for the FE166? And a digital amp isn't the best match (IMHO) for those drivers. You want something with a higher output impedance to warm up the mid-bass a little. Like a single ended tube amp.
jeff
A fostex 206En - I will continue to play themNot enough break-in hours for the FE166? And a digital amp isn't the best match (IMHO) for those drivers. You want something with a higher output impedance to warm up the mid-bass a little. Like a single ended tube amp.
jeff
I plan on using a Elekit 8100 once it is built.
Thank you,
A few more hrs before you should start evaluating them. At least 100 hrs to get over the worst.
Pi-DigiAMP+ - IQaudIO Limited
OK. That is very likely a problem. The FExx6 drivers prefer an amplifier with higher output impedance than your amp does. If used with a low output impedance (as i strongly suspect yours does — no specs here Pi-DigiAMP+ - IQaudIO Limited). It will over damp the LF with the net result of lean bass.
The typical target amp for these are single ended tube amplifiers, but there are some SS amps that your speakers would be happier with.
You can fake it somewhat by using very skinny highish R speaker cables. Start with a pair of wires (24g) pulled from a solid core CAT5/6 cable. If that is not enuff try 30g wirewrapwire (it is kinda fragile). Worst case you could add a series resistor.
At one CES Fostex was using a Luxman amp with something like your speakers (but one of the more exotic 8”). It had way too low an output impedance to match. They used tungsten speaker wires.
dave
...a Raspberry Pi Digi Amp - 35 watts per channel...
Pi-DigiAMP+ - IQaudIO Limited
OK. That is very likely a problem. The FExx6 drivers prefer an amplifier with higher output impedance than your amp does. If used with a low output impedance (as i strongly suspect yours does — no specs here Pi-DigiAMP+ - IQaudIO Limited). It will over damp the LF with the net result of lean bass.
The typical target amp for these are single ended tube amplifiers, but there are some SS amps that your speakers would be happier with.
You can fake it somewhat by using very skinny highish R speaker cables. Start with a pair of wires (24g) pulled from a solid core CAT5/6 cable. If that is not enuff try 30g wirewrapwire (it is kinda fragile). Worst case you could add a series resistor.
At one CES Fostex was using a Luxman amp with something like your speakers (but one of the more exotic 8”). It had way too low an output impedance to match. They used tungsten speaker wires.
dave
... a Elekit 8100 once it is built...
SE PCL86/ECL86. (likely UL or pentode) Even with a fair amount of feedback it should have a highish output impedance (not specified). If feedback is bringing the output impedance down too far one could consider reducing the size of the feedback resistor.
The key to the price of this amp is the switching mains supply. The B+ will have a big impact on the power output (rated 2w).
dave
Miniwatt N3
The TU-8100 is very similar to the Miniwatt … Elekit may even have scooped them up (& the miniWatt amp).
dave
The FE206En is an 8in drive unit.
Assuming we're not going to go off into some twilight world and shall stick with fact, 'tight bass' depends on alignment with back horns in the same way as it does with any other enclosure. Dallas II is one of the better examples of the latter, although its acoustical high pass is a little higher than I personally prefer for keeping GD down.
Assuming we're not going to go off into some twilight world and shall stick with fact, 'tight bass' depends on alignment with back horns in the same way as it does with any other enclosure. Dallas II is one of the better examples of the latter, although its acoustical high pass is a little higher than I personally prefer for keeping GD down.
Just one more question to ask: does the sloping front side and the straight back side make a notable difference to the sound?
I thought that angling the driver up would direct mid and highs away from the listener, and the straight back side does not increasing the opening of the back horn as much as if it were sloped
PS. This way a oversight and the angle is 4 degrees.
I thought that angling the driver up would direct mid and highs away from the listener, and the straight back side does not increasing the opening of the back horn as much as if it were sloped
PS. This way a oversight and the angle is 4 degrees.
Hello,
I am using a Fostex 206 En,
I am sure that the angle is 4 degrees.
Since the back side is straight, opening of the horn is not as profound as the schemes called for.
Thanks for the advice, I’m using spike feet so it may be difficult to rest a piece of wood or book.
Kind Regards,
I am using a Fostex 206 En,
I am sure that the angle is 4 degrees.
Since the back side is straight, opening of the horn is not as profound as the schemes called for.
Thanks for the advice, I’m using spike feet so it may be difficult to rest a piece of wood or book.
Kind Regards,
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