Need advices, First DIY Project, Back Loaded Horn

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I would like to point that I can't get the output impedance of tube amps like Air Tight, Leben, Luxman, Yamamoto neither...

Well, if they don't publish a basic technical value, they should be able to supply it to a prospective customer. If they can't / won't when asked, you know what the sensible thing to do is.

Any particular reason you're looking exclusively at Japanese amplifiers? No reflection on Japanese products (lots of excellent kit) -just wondering why nothing else is mentioned.

Doubt, Isn't common that the majority of tube amps already have a low damping factor?

Yes, most do, with SETs typically being the lowest of the common varieties. The question is: what is it (or preferably, the actual output impedance)?
 
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frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
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Pardon? Damping factor is a factor, and personally I find the hard data it's derived from (output impedance) more useful when designing, but they're saying that they don't even calculate / check it? Claiming it is not important for a tube / valve amplifier is technical nonsense unfortunately. In point of fact, since most such amplifiers have quite a high output impedance (which translates into a low damping factor) compared to, say, the majority of solid state amplifiers, it is more, not less, important to know what it is for optimal system design and matching.

Output impedance is very important when it comes to matching speakers.. Here for example is the “same” bass reflex box, but 3 variations designed for amplifiers with different output impedance.

http://wodendesign.com/downloads/King-of-Swingers.pdf

(thanx for this design Scott, it is proving useful for just its illustrative value).

The manufacturer of those amps is full of crap. I’d walk away from them.

The very reason that you want to get an SE amp is that the higher output impedance will mean more bass, the PP amp will be overdamped and you’ll be asking where the bass went.

dave
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Doubt, Isn't common that the majority of tube amps already have a low damping factor?

Yes, most do, with SETs typically being the lowest of the common varieties. The question is: what is it (or preferably, the actual output impedance)?

Scott is thinking output impedance but you said damping, so high should be low and low should be high.

Damping factor is a poorly defined number for the marketing department.

Starting with post #3 this (closed) thread has a discussion of how a high output impedance amplifiers/compatibale speakers work together for better response. (Parts get quite vehement). Questions about speaker wire's? What forum do I post it on?

dave
 
Output impedance is very important when it comes to matching speakers.. Here for example is the “same” bass reflex box, but 3 variations designed for amplifiers with different output impedance.

http://wodendesign.com/downloads/King-of-Swingers.pdf

(thanx for this design Scott, it is proving useful for just its illustrative value).

Plenty more where that came from (and not just regular vented). ;) Glad it's been of use, I hoped it would be of some value in this sense as well as practical.
 
Hello,

Here's the last reply from the dealer, this info is better?

(I think this is my last attempt to talk with him about this subject anyway)

"ASTOR gives you checking data of each push-pull trans and single trans.
Anyway, I assume too much rely on data is not always correct answer for good sound:) Data is data.. As you know the reproducing sound affects not only combination of products, but also, how to set them up, where you set up position in the room, correct connection of ground outlet, cables.. and your taste:)
Thank you."

And he attached this data sheet about the two different amps that I asking for:

Dropbox - data.jpg - Simplify your life

Let me know your thoughts, the situation got better?

Many thanks to all!
 
Calling users of Fostex recommended enclosures for back loaded horns

Greetings to all music lovers out there.

I'm creating this thread in order to talk with friends that builded and uses as main loudspeakers, the back loaded horns designs provided by Fostex and their drivers.

I already receiving great help on another thread about the concept of back loaded horns and tubes...

but with this thread, my intention is focused on talk with people that in fact, builded and uses the Fostex drivers together with the official enclosures provided by they, as yours main loudspeakers of choice.

Many thanks, best regards too all!
 
Yes, I think i will give up of this dealer.. many thanks for all the advices, there's a lot of great info that I'm still digesting, because some are very technical for me, and I'm not much versed on some technical concepts, I will dedicate some time to read everything again...
 
This are the main factors that made me decide to choose the Fostex drivers and their recommended enclosures for their drivers, as my first loudspeaker building project.

1. I can get a very nice deal for purchase the drivers, as I have a friend in Japan that can bring to me, they are half of the price there, as where I live, is almost impossible for me import the drivers via mail order, due crazy import taxes here with this method.

2. They are renowned, (I'm sure that are much better drivers out there), and I think is a safe route as a first project, build the enclosure that they recommended for each specific drivers, also the enclosure construction it's not too difficult to be made.

3. due the already mentioned import taxes by mail order situation, purchase assembled renowned loudspeaker where I live, is very expensive, so I thinking that build a renowned design, with very nice drivers, I can obtain great performance with a reduced budget, (or even surpass the performance of a assembled loudspeaker with the same money invested building my own?) as all the aggregate value about the building process, development, factory value, distribution, dealer's profit and etc, from assembled loudspeakers manufacturers are not enter on the value equation.

The design of choice it will be:

Fostex FE208Z full range driver
https://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/fe208ez.pdf

Fostex T900A super horn tweeter
https://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/t900a.pdf

Fostex recommended enclosure for this drivers:
https://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/recom_enclose/208ez_enclrev.pdf

My main concern, is the bass performance, I know that loudspeakers design, as a loft of things in engineering, always involves a compromise in some areas in order too achieve benefits in others, in this case, appears the the compromise is the bass performance.

I found some infos about Fostex back loaded horns projects that people builded, but mostly it was the design for the FE206, where the opening of the enclosure is close to the ground, see picture:

https://www.fostexinternational.com/docs/speaker_components/pdf/FE206En.pdf

but the infos about the specific enclosure that I choose, is somehow scarce on DIY Audio Forum too.

I indeed found some info about the particular enclosure and drivers that I choose, for what I understood, this one was made to deliver a better bass performance, is somehow different of the enclosure recommended for the FE206, where the mouth is closer do the ground, meanwhile on the one that I choose, the enclosure is bigger, and the mouth is different positioned.

You guys had the opportunity to listen this particular one that I choose?

Also, if you know someone that use this speakers, or listened they some times, appreciate if you can put me in contact.

Many thanks, best regards to all!
 
I strongly recommend Jericho horn (BLH) from Klang+Ton magazine (2/96). The exact combination of 208Z + T900 in Jericho horn (with just one capacitor as xover) have herd and directly compared to Dallas II with 206E and must say that Jericho was better just because of T900 tweeter. Although, Dallas II was a little (just a little) better sounding i lowest spectrum.
 
Could I gently point out that if the Jericho was thought to sound better 'just because of the T900a tweeter' then that advantage was entirely due to the tweeter, and has nothing to do with the horn. Back loaded horns only operate over a limited range in the lower frequencies; they do not affect the upper midrange and HF region.

The T900a of course, can be used with any other horn design that takes your fancy (e.g. Dallas II, the Factory design &c).
 
I'm noticing that is being difficult to find people that have the exactly speaker that I want to build, that is the FE208EZ + TA900A and Fostex recommended enclosure for they.

If you guys knows some one that have this speakers I appreciate very much if you can put me in contact with the user.
 
Let me clear myself, 208Z sounded better than 206E in all aspects except upper register where it needs additional tweeter. But, when we put it in Dallas horn, it didn't sound as good as Fe206e. But in Jericho it showed what it can do although Fe206e is a bit more precise in bass region (in Dallas) vs 208Z (in Jericho)... So, it's hard to compare these two horns.. we did not connect tweeter to 206 in Dallas horns, unfortunately.
Anyway, I think that Jericho is great horn for 208Z.
 
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