Help me to design transmission line for TG9FD-10-04

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can anyone help me to design/calculate transmission line design for this driver? I'm not looking for any low bass, more to beauty design but not jeopardize the sound.

attached is my inspired design, but i have no idea on how to calculate the length or mouth/throat size (correct me if the terminology is correct). I will build it with stacked plywood cut.

really appreciate for the help

[ full custom ]ba Claw do horn FOSTEX FE108E MM-161S: Real Yahoo auction salling
 

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Founder of XSA-Labs
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This driver can be substituted for almost any design that uses TC9FD - the T/S parameters are different but close enough in that both are moderately high Qts, Vas and fs is about the same.

Look at the project Index on post #1 of this thread: Foam Core Board Speaker Enclosures?

In particular, these prohjects:

Flat wall mount stereo MLTL with Vifa TC9FD:
Foam Core Board Speaker Enclosures? - Page 147 - diyAudio

Flat BIB or FIB with Vifa:
Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks? - Page 516 - diyAudio

FIB alternate without V channel:
Terry Cain's BIB -why does it work and does anyone have those Fostex Craft Handbooks? - Page 512 - diyAudio

Folded bookshelf MLTL with Vifa:
Fostex Fe83en the right small box? - diyAudio

Curvy wall Tabaq with P830986 (Dec 23, 2015):
TABAQ TL for Tang Band - Page 119 - diyAudio

Scale this one by 70% and it should work - PMC inspired TL Monitor with DC28F and DC130A (Oct. 30, 2015):
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/281778-low-cost-pmc-inspired-tl-monitor-dc130a-dc28f.html

And you can always use the AMLT technique if you have a moderate Qts driver:
Accidental MLTL Technique

If I had to recommend one, try the 0.40x Karlsonator (guaranteed to please and sound great), very easy to build - a TQWTL:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full...sonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-16.html#post3722988

385169d1385877585-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-photo-build-03.png
 
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@X
that are alot of samples that I can try, you make all of them look easy to build :) I just got new knowledge on TL length is 1/4 wavelength of Fs, i might experiment with 3" pvc pipe combined with knee connector to get desired length.

this new release driver seems also a good 3" driver and it's cheaper than the early popular SB65wbac

SB Acoustics :: 3” SB10PGC21-4<br><font color="#C70039">SHIPPING</font>

gadut - the speaker in your image is a back loaded horn, not a transmission line.

It should be noted that intended a horn and called a horn, it is actually a badly designed TL.

dave

I'm really confused with the terminology of TL, BLH or FLH or whichever the proper name, i just give it to you the master for their naming

beside looking beauty TL design, I want this build to replace my existing Creative T20 for my TV output. it lacks of clarity to fill my 5x6m family room
 
The TG9, and its relative the TC9, have a high Qts that is not suited for a TL. You will not get the bass extension a TL can offer, and it will be in the same range as a normal smaller and easier to build vented box.

Same goes for that new SBA driver, which I'm still waiting for, as our local distributor hasn't received them yet.

Look at X's designs made for the TC9 to bring out the best from that little driver.

Also note that the 8 Ohm version performs better than the 4 Ohm.
 
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You can still do mass loaded TL (MLTL), and some TL’s or even BLH’s can work with the TC9FD, and so I think TG9 will be very similar. They just need to be modeled appropriately. The 0.40x Karlsonator is a proven folded TL design with incredible sound and bass-gain. That is, it doesn’t need a baffle step compensation, in general.

It works so well, you can see that it has replaced a member’s commercially made studio monitors here:
635194d1505316980-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds-sanc-mk-0-4-jpg


Btw, I made a BLH for the TC9FD very similar to the one you were looking at above, it just did not have enough bass gain - made lots of mid bass. This was before I k ew how to simulates speakers - so not saying it was a good design. But the characteristic sound was no where nearly as nice as the much simpler and compact 0.40x Karlsonator.
312602d1353237613-foam-core-board-speaker-enclosures-horn-01-jpg


A much better sounding BLH speaker is the Cornu and it’s not hard to make out of foam core:
313902d1353867509-foam-core-board-speaker-enclosures-cornu-04-jpg


314244d1354026400-foam-core-board-speaker-enclosures-cornu-07-jpg


There’s a whole separate thread in it.
 
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while waiting wood filler dried on my subwoofer build, i started to build X design which i think it's simplest one. rabbet join result is getting better now
 

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finished 1 enclosure today with 1 side panel removable for stuffing access. initially it should be placed on the rack beside tv, but the room sucked all bass even bigger alpair 10p in minionken get the same no bass. but when it's moved to the corner then it shines

@X
it simple enough to play with my tone control bass-mid-treble, i'm searching now on aliexpress for integrated class d with tone control and maybe extra bluetooth
 

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Interesting build.. But frankly expecting Any bass out of 2" cones is 'optimistic' if not delusional .
Gotta fit a decent Sub OR use Large, good Quality drivers.. has been my experience, after ~50 years of DIY adventures.
While here: WHY do these teeny drivers ..all... claim to be Twice the size their cones actually measure at ??
About as convincing as claiming that one's Member is 12" long :D
 
while waiting wood filler dried on my subwoofer build, i started to build X design which i think it's simplest one. rabbet join result is getting better now


Made this speaker 2 years ago. Sounds very good with TC9 8 Ohm.
For bufflestep kompensation i used 1 mH and 10 Ohm as
xrk971 recomends.

Thanks for sharing.
 

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Made this speaker 2 years ago. Sounds very good with TC9 8 Ohm.
For bufflestep kompensation i used 1 mH and 10 Ohm as
xrk971 recomends.

Thanks for sharing.

nice build

Gadut and Lung,
Both of you made a nice box for this speaker. I like how compact it is - works well for desktop or bookshelf.

Gadut, make sure you use gasket for side panel. Small pinhole leaks will destroy the bass. Like a leaky finger on a flute playing low C.
that's why i put papertape inside but yeah not fully-sealed yet, i will put same papertape on outside left side panel which hopefully will seal the air

the bass is very thin if not placed on the corner which look like too low port tuning, my internal dimension is 4x13.5x9.5 inch a bit different from original ginl design due to my rabbet join. is this big issue? I will try to increase or decrease port length if it can change the sound
 
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Tone controls may not have the right filter high-shelf attenuate function that a classic BSC with a 1mH coil and resistor in parallel have. Basically you want a flat -3dB to -5dB shelf above 900Hz or so with a -6dB/oct slope at the filter frequency. Bi-quad EQ from a DSP can also do it of course.

Try making port a bit shorter - however, this speaker just isn’t a bass generator. A 0.40X Karlsonator has more full bass if you ever want to try that.
 
Tone controls may not have the right filter high-shelf attenuate function that a classic BSC with a 1mH coil and resistor in parallel have. Basically you want a flat -3dB to -5dB shelf above 900Hz or so with a -6dB/oct slope at the filter frequency. Bi-quad EQ from a DSP can also do it of course.

Try making port a bit shorter - however, this speaker just isn’t a bass generator. A 0.40X Karlsonator has more full bass if you ever want to try that.
I have several inductor starting from 0.5 to 3.3mH but the problem is that all the labels are gone. i might start from the smallest one

indeed what bass do you expect from that tiny driver, but my creative T20 with 2.5" has more slam but tuned higher for sure. just want to maximize the output from MLTL because the cone already jump in-out but lean bass
 
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