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TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
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Old 22nd April 2019, 12:58 PM   #11
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
For an 8ohm TABAQ use 1mH and adjust resistor anywhere from 2ohm to 10ohms to taste. Get several resistors in 2ohm, 4.7ohm, 6.7ohm, 10ohm, 1ohm and use alligator clips to adjust BSC externally until you like the balance of the sound. Then solder it and install internally. The 1mH 20ga aircore works well. In a pinch, a cheap ($2 a bag of 20) 10mm x 8mm ferrite core radial lead inductor rated for 2A will work fine. I have used one for years and can’t really tell difference when switched to $10 air core copper coil.

These are great for experimenting:
20pcs Inductor power inductor 1MH 8*10-in Inductors from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

As an example, here is me adjusting BSC externally on my W5-2143 XKi until I liked what I heard.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Last edited by xrk971; 22nd April 2019 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 22nd April 2019, 01:17 PM   #12
oon_the_kid is offline oon_the_kid  Malaysia
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BTW. I was looking, can't seem to find the meaning of TABAQ... What does it stand for?

Oon
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Old 22nd April 2019, 01:37 PM   #13
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
You should look in the Tabaq thread.

TABAQ TL for Tang Band

TAng BAnd Quarter-wave - I think.
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Old 23rd April 2019, 02:04 AM   #14
oon_the_kid is offline oon_the_kid  Malaysia
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Ah I see.. was wondering what TABAQ meant. I thought it is some new transmission line terminology. I have always wanted to try it out properly. I did it once PVC.pipe. the length of the PVC pipe is about a meter. I used a T connection to mount the speaker. At the end, so it faces forward and cap the other end.

After understanding more of the theory. And why the driver shouldn't be on tube end, I realised I should have a pipe at the other side of the tube and cap it. So the driver is somewhere in between... Haven't got around to that part...

Oon
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Old 23rd April 2019, 07:21 AM   #15
luigiman is offline luigiman  United Kingdom
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So, would you build my design? Based on the sim for the 3FE22 TABAQ from Bjorn, who designed the original TABAQ, did I get my measurements right?

Or would you do it a different way? I'd be interested to know what you think, Oon, or anyone.
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Old 23rd April 2019, 10:12 AM   #16
xrk971 is offline xrk971  United States
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TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
You are fine to build it. Good to go.
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Old 23rd April 2019, 11:52 AM   #17
dewdrop is offline dewdrop  Singapore
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TABAQ with FaitalPro 3FE22
Quote:
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
For an 8ohm TABAQ use 1mH and adjust resistor anywhere from 2ohm to 10ohms to taste. Get several resistors in 2ohm, 4.7ohm, 6.7ohm, 10ohm, 1ohm and use alligator clips to adjust BSC externally until you like the balance of the sound. Then solder it and install internally. The 1mH 20ga aircore works well. In a pinch, a cheap ($2 a bag of 20) 10mm x 8mm ferrite core radial lead inductor rated for 2A will work fine. I have used one for years and canít really tell difference when switched to $10 air core copper coil.

These are great for experimenting:
20pcs Inductor power inductor 1MH 8*10-in Inductors from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

As an example, here is me adjusting BSC externally on my W5-2143 XKi until I liked what I heard.
Click the image to open in full size.
Good idea!
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Old 24th April 2019, 12:24 AM   #18
oon_the_kid is offline oon_the_kid  Malaysia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oon_the_kid View Post
Ah I see.. was wondering what TABAQ meant. I thought it is some new transmission line terminology. I have always wanted to try it out properly. I did it once PVC.pipe. the length of the PVC pipe is about a meter. I used a T connection to mount the speaker. At the end, so it faces forward and cap the other end.

After understanding more of the theory. And why the driver shouldn't be on tube end, I realised I should have a pipe at the other side of the tube and cap it. So the driver is somewhere in between... Haven't got around to that part...

Oon
To be frank I gave up trying that way with the 3fe22, even though I love it is because I realise it will never give me the bass I want. 3inch with 1mm of Xmax not going to get you much. So right now it is just used with subwoofer as a WAW/FAST system.

I would go down the 4" route if I were in your shoes. A lot more xmax and lower Fs. Sacrifice on the mids and treble of course. If you asked me for any recommendations, I would say the SBacoustics 12 PAC. Listed as a midwoofer, it goes past 20kHz. I have used it before as a fullrange and sounds pretty decent. Or maybe the scanspeak 10F (haven't used before but a lot of rave on it). In speaker design, quite often sensitivity and Xmax are the opposite of each other. Unless you are trying to use tubes, I would go down that route...

Oon
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Old 24th April 2019, 02:29 PM   #19
oon_the_kid is offline oon_the_kid  Malaysia
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BTW, my post above is what I would do if I were building speakers for my friend. I would go for a more balanced sound (more bass). The 12PAC has a 5mm Xmax I could imagine what it would do in a nice transmission line. Relatively cheap too... Not necessarily what you should do. I think you should finish the project and tell us how it sounds.

Oh and there is of course 4Fe32. Not as refined in sound, but certainly a lot more bass. Also there are the markaudio stuff.

Oon
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Old 24th April 2019, 03:09 PM   #20
GoldenWhale is offline GoldenWhale
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Have you all looked at this driver?

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs...et-revised.pdf

Seems to have a smoother response than the Faital 4FE35s and a lower Fs of 85 Hz (versus 100). It is also less expensive, and although classed as a 4" driver it seems to be more of a 3". Increased power handling and Xmax should help with the low end that the 3FE22s so desperately need.
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