When you are on the first window called Input Parameters, go to the Tools menu, and click on LoudSpeaker Wizard.
Click no for Air Chamber Resonance, and you will get the new wizard window.
On the second drop down menu, find Filling.
Add about 400 of Tail in segment 1 and 2, and 99% for segment 1 Tail and 60% for segment 2 Tail. If you look at the Power window (first menu) you will see the 40Hz peak flatten out. To see a representation of the filling, look at the schematic in the first drop down menu.
Click no for Air Chamber Resonance, and you will get the new wizard window.
On the second drop down menu, find Filling.
Add about 400 of Tail in segment 1 and 2, and 99% for segment 1 Tail and 60% for segment 2 Tail. If you look at the Power window (first menu) you will see the 40Hz peak flatten out. To see a representation of the filling, look at the schematic in the first drop down menu.
The huge peak is somewhat exaggerated in HR, but is due to the increased cab volume [Vb] at the same tuning [Fb] to get increased driver damping.
The sims I posted already have stuffing added, which sufficiently smooths/flattens each sim's response [as opposed to perfectly smooth that usually takes too much 'life' out of it], though again, the room's impact on its performance combined with yours and any others hearing perception may make you want more or less over time.
GM
The sims I posted already have stuffing added, which sufficiently smooths/flattens each sim's response [as opposed to perfectly smooth that usually takes too much 'life' out of it], though again, the room's impact on its performance combined with yours and any others hearing perception may make you want more or less over time.
GM
Ok, that's what I suspected. I've been reading the Keystone sub and PAL12 subs for awhile and I recall that real world use was much smoother.
So with increased driver damping, you're getting more bass from the same excursion! That's a great idea. Makes me very tempted to build your larger version.
One thing occurred to me - you said it's 57" tall? (Haven't found the dimensions in Hornresp yet, if there are any)
So that's going to be cut lengthwise on a 48*96 sheet, almost 40" needed for one box! I doubt one sheet would even be enough for a pair smaller box design anyway. Unless I go for the pricier 5*5 sheets of BB.
It's all in the .txt file:
ID=48.20
Ang=2.0 x Pi
Eg=2.83
Rg=0.50
Fta=0.00
S1=600.00 WxD recommend a golden or acoustic ratio with depth [D] > 1.5x driver depth
S2=600.00
Con=49.82 driver offset point
F12=0.00
S2=600.00
S3=600.00
Con=92.90 rest of cab
F23=0.00
S3=600.00
S4=40.54
Con=0.01
F34=0.00
S4=40.54 vent area [Ap]
S5=40.54
Con=1.80 vent length [Lp] just a hole in ~3/4" thick panel
F45=0.00
Sd=140.00
Bl=5.59
Cms=1.24E-03
Rms=1.65
Mmd=9.13
Le=0.01
Re=6.80
OD=1
Vrc=0.00
Lrc=0.00
Fr=0.00
Tal=0.00
Vtc=0.00
Atc=0.00
Pmax=6
Xmax=3.0
As previously noted, HR can only show the vent going out the bottom, but will actually be ~47.65" i.d. down from the top. If you look at the Power/Chamber/Combined you'll see that there's a 'Path' length distance to account for this.
All dimensions are inside [i.d.], cm.
GM
Thanks for the details GM. It's confusing that Con is used for multiple dimensions. Otherwise I'm sure I'll slowly get the hang of this.
Are there any dimensions for footprint? Or is height & offset the only ID's that really matter?
Can I do the front baffle 3/4", and the sides 1/2 or 3/8" with some bracing throughout?
Are there any dimensions for footprint? Or is height & offset the only ID's that really matter?
Can I do the front baffle 3/4", and the sides 1/2 or 3/8" with some bracing throughout?
You're welcome!
I wish that was the worst of it, but what started as a basic horn designer has over the decades? blossomed into a fairly complex puzzle full of options we were once told either would never happen or extremely unlikely that I've been unable to always stay completely abreast of.
No and why I listed it as WxD, plus as I previously noted, ideally need a massive base or something to keep it from being easily tipped over.
I recommended making the internal depth at least 1.5x driver depth 8.9 cm = 13.35- ~1.8 cm baffle thickness = ~11.55 cm i.d., then 600/11.55 = ~51.95 cm i.d. wide and since the driver, bracing will take up some space, round off the width to 52 cm i.d.. 11.55/52 = 0.222:1 so an odd enough ratio combined with internal damping to not be concerned with internal eigenmodes summing.
You can, but bracing requirements goes up, though don't know how much or the math to calculate it. Always 'played it by ear', bonding wood, old tile, drywall, etc., scraps to 3/8" panels till it sounded ~ like the large 3/4" marine grade plywood panels of my 'subs' when struck with an old hammer handle.
GM
I wish that was the worst of it, but what started as a basic horn designer has over the decades? blossomed into a fairly complex puzzle full of options we were once told either would never happen or extremely unlikely that I've been unable to always stay completely abreast of.
No and why I listed it as WxD, plus as I previously noted, ideally need a massive base or something to keep it from being easily tipped over.
I recommended making the internal depth at least 1.5x driver depth 8.9 cm = 13.35- ~1.8 cm baffle thickness = ~11.55 cm i.d., then 600/11.55 = ~51.95 cm i.d. wide and since the driver, bracing will take up some space, round off the width to 52 cm i.d.. 11.55/52 = 0.222:1 so an odd enough ratio combined with internal damping to not be concerned with internal eigenmodes summing.
You can, but bracing requirements goes up, though don't know how much or the math to calculate it. Always 'played it by ear', bonding wood, old tile, drywall, etc., scraps to 3/8" panels till it sounded ~ like the large 3/4" marine grade plywood panels of my 'subs' when struck with an old hammer handle.
GM
Rather than having the Air Chamber Resonances prompt appear each time that the Loudspeaker Wizard is opened, use the Tools > Options menu command to "permanently" set the desired option.
Attachments
In the meantime, I found a little extra Birch plywood. I'm thinking why not cut and screw into a couple of L shapes, and mount the W6 drivers as simple OB drivers while I break them in?
I'd put them on the studio as "B"monitors, or into the bedroom (closer to a rear wall though).
This is not long term, but I'm curious - how do these fare in terms of T/S parameters for OB speakers? Will it help if I add wings on the sides to create a longer path for the back wave?
I'd put them on the studio as "B"monitors, or into the bedroom (closer to a rear wall though).
This is not long term, but I'm curious - how do these fare in terms of T/S parameters for OB speakers? Will it help if I add wings on the sides to create a longer path for the back wave?
Asking a full range driver to also put out some bass on OB.... at 6", it's asking a bit much.
At 6', you're kinda in between.
It's not big enough to put out meaningful bass on OB.
It also beams quite a lot more for the higher end of the spectrum.
Where you go from here will be according to your requirements.
At 6', you're kinda in between.
It's not big enough to put out meaningful bass on OB.
It also beams quite a lot more for the higher end of the spectrum.
Where you go from here will be according to your requirements.
Depends on how low you want to go, i.e. assuming just half space loading, baffle loading to Fs requires a ~2.0 Qts', so with only a ~0.5 Qts', then the baffle needs to be ~8x larger in area, though in a typical size room it can be much less if properly positioned.
Qts' = Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: HiFi Loudspeaker Design
Anyway, assuming not close to any wall, corner, a ~40" square baffle setting on and perpendicular to, the floor will load low enough [~80 Hz/-F6] for good break-in and/or combined with a woofer for a WAW system with an 80-120 Hz XO.
If you want smaller and/or spaced up, then experiment using HR's Input Wizard.
Offset the driver in both planes at a golden or acoustic ratio to average out its eigenmodes: Room sizing for studios | Acoustics Research Centre |
Salford Innovation Research Centre (SIRC) | University of Salford, Manchester
GM
Well, it can put out as much bass as in a typical vented alignment, which is plenty for many on DIYaudio, just must be a truly huge baffle, too big for most size rooms around here.
GM