ROFL That would be quite the feat in a 2 bedroom apartment with no garage.
Having a router is pretty high on my list because it would be quite useful beyond speakers (my other main hobby is telescope building which uses a lot of wood), but sadly that probably won't happen for another few year at least.
And I plan on saving the, "I don't remember when I got that" excuse for bicycles.
Having a router is pretty high on my list because it would be quite useful beyond speakers (my other main hobby is telescope building which uses a lot of wood), but sadly that probably won't happen for another few year at least.
And I plan on saving the, "I don't remember when I got that" excuse for bicycles.
Ah, the bicycles.
I used to be really into bicycles, but now with all the kids activities and meetings etc, it was the first thing to not happen anymore. Still oogling my bikes from time to time, hoping maybe next year I will have the opportunity to do more of that stuff, and it seems I just managed to get out of one of the most frequent regular meeting thingys! Woho!
I somehow ended up with 3 steel frame bikes?!
One matte-black Surly Krampus, one baby-blue Surly Ice Cream Truck, and my favourite is the slightly older red singlespeed On-One Inbred frame with my own choice of bits on it, custom wheels and everything.
I also have a beautiful blue On-One Pompino frame almost untouched by human hands.
I used to be really into bicycles, but now with all the kids activities and meetings etc, it was the first thing to not happen anymore. Still oogling my bikes from time to time, hoping maybe next year I will have the opportunity to do more of that stuff, and it seems I just managed to get out of one of the most frequent regular meeting thingys! Woho!
I somehow ended up with 3 steel frame bikes?!
One matte-black Surly Krampus, one baby-blue Surly Ice Cream Truck, and my favourite is the slightly older red singlespeed On-One Inbred frame with my own choice of bits on it, custom wheels and everything.
I also have a beautiful blue On-One Pompino frame almost untouched by human hands.
Those are some sweet rides! I've been looking around at gravel bikes for a bit, and it seems like UK/EU have so many more options from smaller brands than here in the US.
Currently I've got a '76 Raleigh Grand Prix steel frame, and my goal for the summer to ride to work 3x per week. Its about 18km each way, and most of that is poorly maintained bike paths, or roads with no bike lanes. Sadly, being in the apartment, getting a new bike will likely mean selling my old one. That's goona be a tough day.
Currently I've got a '76 Raleigh Grand Prix steel frame, and my goal for the summer to ride to work 3x per week. Its about 18km each way, and most of that is poorly maintained bike paths, or roads with no bike lanes. Sadly, being in the apartment, getting a new bike will likely mean selling my old one. That's goona be a tough day.
Those Raleigh frames are nice, Maybe it would be possible to just update the parts on your Raleigh?
Get some gravel tires, some good hand built wheels and a nice new fork?
I do not know the what space you have for tires etc, but the On-One Pickenflick Cyclocross 1x11 with titanium frame and carbon fork looks really sweet to me.
On-One Pickenflick SRAM Rival 1 Cyclocross Bike | On - One
I am sadly NOT compatible with slim tires
I had a absolutely beautiful milky "Coffee & Tea" theme coloured On-One Kaffenback bike that was just so... Really miss that one, but I just had to sell it, I am not compatible with slim tires.
Planet X Kaffenback 2 Frameset | On - One
It's the light brown + brown colour theme, goes well with disc brakes etc.
Perhaps the Surly Cross-Check might be something to look at?
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check
I would look at a hard tail 29"er with a nice fork myself though.
Get some gravel tires, some good hand built wheels and a nice new fork?
I do not know the what space you have for tires etc, but the On-One Pickenflick Cyclocross 1x11 with titanium frame and carbon fork looks really sweet to me.
On-One Pickenflick SRAM Rival 1 Cyclocross Bike | On - One
I am sadly NOT compatible with slim tires
I had a absolutely beautiful milky "Coffee & Tea" theme coloured On-One Kaffenback bike that was just so... Really miss that one, but I just had to sell it, I am not compatible with slim tires.Planet X Kaffenback 2 Frameset | On - One
It's the light brown + brown colour theme, goes well with disc brakes etc.
Perhaps the Surly Cross-Check might be something to look at?
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/cross_check
I would look at a hard tail 29"er with a nice fork myself though.
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I've looked into doing a full parts upgrade, but the price ends up being quite close to a new bike, and I'd have to stretch the rear fork to fit the larger groupsets. Plus, living near Portland, I like the idea of slapping some fatter tires on my bike and doing some light trail riding on the weekend. The old Raleigh frame is sized for 27x1.25 tires, so fat tires aren't an option. :/
I would love to get some of those On-One options, but shipping is ~$230 which would severely limit my options. I'm gonna keep on looking around for now, and just keep wishing that the US had as many bike options as EU. Either that or I'll just have to move to Europe.
I would love to get some of those On-One options, but shipping is ~$230 which would severely limit my options. I'm gonna keep on looking around for now, and just keep wishing that the US had as many bike options as EU. Either that or I'll just have to move to Europe.
What are you talking about? Lots of nice bikes coming from the US and Canada.
You know, I would seriously think about the Brodie Torque.
2019 Torque — Brodie Bicycles
I know most people don't really consider what tires etc the bike comes with, but those Schwalbe Super Moto-X are soooo sweet, you will never miss the slim tires of the Raleigh! Nice geometry steel frame, good disc brakes, reliable and pretty good 10 speed gears.
I had a Brodie 1ball some years ago, they choose well balanced setups for most of their bikes.
You know, I would seriously think about the Brodie Torque.
2019 Torque — Brodie Bicycles
I know most people don't really consider what tires etc the bike comes with, but those Schwalbe Super Moto-X are soooo sweet, you will never miss the slim tires of the Raleigh! Nice geometry steel frame, good disc brakes, reliable and pretty good 10 speed gears.
I had a Brodie 1ball some years ago, they choose well balanced setups for most of their bikes.
Hmmm. I guess it would be more accurate to say that big review sites don't really cover the smaller, North American based companies. And most of the ones that I have found (esp. near Portland) are way out of my budget.
I'm a sucker for drop bars, and the Brodie Revel looks like a nearly ideal bike for me. In terms of specs, price, and style.
Another option I found looking at Canadian bikes is Norco. The Aluminum Tiagra looks to be a great option (albeit a bit out of my budget).
I think one of the things that is catching me up is the groupset levels. Its so easy to try and justify the price of the next level up, but I have no frame of reference coming from a 70's 10 speed with down-stem, non-indexed, shifters. I like the idea of going for a bike that is more balanced gear wise, and from a smaller company
I'm a sucker for drop bars, and the Brodie Revel looks like a nearly ideal bike for me. In terms of specs, price, and style.
Another option I found looking at Canadian bikes is Norco. The Aluminum Tiagra looks to be a great option (albeit a bit out of my budget).
I think one of the things that is catching me up is the groupset levels. Its so easy to try and justify the price of the next level up, but I have no frame of reference coming from a 70's 10 speed with down-stem, non-indexed, shifters. I like the idea of going for a bike that is more balanced gear wise, and from a smaller company
You know, I see your desire to choose a bike based on gear groupset and handlebars etc. But I implore you to reconsider your basis of preference, or just shift your viewpoint a tiny little bit.
I might be wrong here, so please do correct me.
Your reference seems to be a classic steel frame Raleigh, with a very nice geometry, Slim tires that only do good on smooth surfaces in dry conditions, below par braking properties, and perhaps some minor niggles and wear that have lead to reduced cornering speed.
It seems some what you want is:
A more versatile bike overall, willing to sacrifice a tiny sliver of top speed if it nets you some other advantages like ability to do gravel and maybe a few root tracks, more stopping power in all conditions, a tiny bit increased comfort, reliable gear shifting system, and you also mentioned liking drop bars.
Do bear in mind:
When you decide on a particular frame, then you cannot go back, a change of handlebars can actually be both easier and cheaper than changing tires.
However, choosing a specific frame dictates the size, width and style of tires (which again, dictates the amount of grip, under which surface conditions you actually have grip, and therefore also stopping power and cornering speed of all the above).
The material the frame is made from, in combination with the geometry also has a lot to say for how you will handle, brake, accelerate and corner.
Seeing where you come from, in terms of what you already have and what you like about that bike, without being overly specific (pointedly trying to avoid it). I would suggest you look at a frame suitable for minimum 650b or perhaps 28" rimsize wheels, not 700c like you're used to, either get a cheap but good steel, a reasonably priced carbon, or perhaps a used titanium frame.
Simply because I think you will not find the long term experience you desire with any aluminum frame. And the 650b or 28" wheel setups will give you the right "feel" and allow you to use the tires that again provide the versatile experience under all conditions, that you seem to want.
Other things to think about:
You can get a decent enough drop bar for 12$ if you know where to look, and it's just loosening a couple of hex screws to replace it, can be done in far less time than fixing a flat tire.
Disc brakes are not really any better than rim brakes when it's dry, but they are far more predictable in other weather conditions, you are much more likely to get the same stopping power in both wet and dry weather, it's more about if you can actually get good enough surface grip.
Any gearset from Shimano Deore/Sram X5 and up is good enough for about anything, don't get anything less than this level if you are going to use the bike a lot.
Most people (even those that bicycle A LOT) use their 3x7/8/9/10 gearsets wrong. For simplicity in setup, possible weight reduction and reduced maintenance, I ask if you at least consider a 1x10 setup, or maybe even a internal gear rear hub.
Please at least consider these things, because I honestly do not think you can go from that nice Raleigh to a brand new aluminium roadie 3x10, and avoid missing that good'ol gem you used to have.
Think about what you have, what you want, and see which compromises you are willing to settle for.
I am pretty confident in saying this though: Compared to the old setup, with something like the Torque I mentioned, you'll be a laughing maniac entering and exiting absolutely all corners at ridiculous speeds compared to the rickety rubber band wheels of the Raleigh.
The difference in grip and agility will be very significant. Comfort will also be much higher.
That's about my 15c or so.
I might be wrong here, so please do correct me.
Your reference seems to be a classic steel frame Raleigh, with a very nice geometry, Slim tires that only do good on smooth surfaces in dry conditions, below par braking properties, and perhaps some minor niggles and wear that have lead to reduced cornering speed.
It seems some what you want is:
A more versatile bike overall, willing to sacrifice a tiny sliver of top speed if it nets you some other advantages like ability to do gravel and maybe a few root tracks, more stopping power in all conditions, a tiny bit increased comfort, reliable gear shifting system, and you also mentioned liking drop bars.
Do bear in mind:
When you decide on a particular frame, then you cannot go back, a change of handlebars can actually be both easier and cheaper than changing tires.
However, choosing a specific frame dictates the size, width and style of tires (which again, dictates the amount of grip, under which surface conditions you actually have grip, and therefore also stopping power and cornering speed of all the above).
The material the frame is made from, in combination with the geometry also has a lot to say for how you will handle, brake, accelerate and corner.
Seeing where you come from, in terms of what you already have and what you like about that bike, without being overly specific (pointedly trying to avoid it). I would suggest you look at a frame suitable for minimum 650b or perhaps 28" rimsize wheels, not 700c like you're used to, either get a cheap but good steel, a reasonably priced carbon, or perhaps a used titanium frame.
Simply because I think you will not find the long term experience you desire with any aluminum frame. And the 650b or 28" wheel setups will give you the right "feel" and allow you to use the tires that again provide the versatile experience under all conditions, that you seem to want.
Other things to think about:
You can get a decent enough drop bar for 12$ if you know where to look, and it's just loosening a couple of hex screws to replace it, can be done in far less time than fixing a flat tire.
Disc brakes are not really any better than rim brakes when it's dry, but they are far more predictable in other weather conditions, you are much more likely to get the same stopping power in both wet and dry weather, it's more about if you can actually get good enough surface grip.
Any gearset from Shimano Deore/Sram X5 and up is good enough for about anything, don't get anything less than this level if you are going to use the bike a lot.
Most people (even those that bicycle A LOT) use their 3x7/8/9/10 gearsets wrong. For simplicity in setup, possible weight reduction and reduced maintenance, I ask if you at least consider a 1x10 setup, or maybe even a internal gear rear hub.
Please at least consider these things, because I honestly do not think you can go from that nice Raleigh to a brand new aluminium roadie 3x10, and avoid missing that good'ol gem you used to have.
Think about what you have, what you want, and see which compromises you are willing to settle for.
I am pretty confident in saying this though: Compared to the old setup, with something like the Torque I mentioned, you'll be a laughing maniac entering and exiting absolutely all corners at ridiculous speeds compared to the rickety rubber band wheels of the Raleigh.
The difference in grip and agility will be very significant. Comfort will also be much higher.
That's about my 15c or so.
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I really appreciate you help on this!
You have quite accurately identified why I would like to get a new bike. I've had the Raleigh at least 15 years, and while I've always enjoyed riding it, there are a growing number of niggles that are making it less fun to ride. Also, being that I live in a very different climate than when I first got the bike, I think I need something better suited to my current local.
I have definitely been drawn in by the flashy groupsets on the road bikes, and drop bars, so I really appreciate the reality check. I have never ridden an aluminum frame bike before, and while I like the concept of a lighter bike, everyone I've talked to says they just don't hold up to big guys like me (6'0", 210lb). I just weighed my current bike and it comes in at 25 lbs, and thats much lighter than I thought it was. I have some concerns about the durability of carbon bikes, so I think I'll stick with steel.
Currently I ride 27x1.25 wheels, so going to 28" or 650b shouldn't be a huge change. The more I think about it, the more appealing the fatter tires sound, and the research I did indicates that the rolling resistance shouldn't be significantly different.
At this point, disc brakes are a must given that the weather changes dramatically in Portland, and I want to get into trail riding where the discs are a necessity.
The only thing that I'm confused/hesitant about is the 1x10 gearset. Can you please explain what you mean when you say that most people use their 3x... gearset wrong? Also, how is a modern 1x10 Sram gearset different than an old-school 2x5 freewheel? It seems like if I'm upgrading my bike I should get one with more gear options.
Also, my wife was super enthusiastic when I suggested going up to BC so that I can buy a Brodie bike. Hopefully that's gonna happen in a month or so.
You have quite accurately identified why I would like to get a new bike. I've had the Raleigh at least 15 years, and while I've always enjoyed riding it, there are a growing number of niggles that are making it less fun to ride. Also, being that I live in a very different climate than when I first got the bike, I think I need something better suited to my current local.
I have definitely been drawn in by the flashy groupsets on the road bikes, and drop bars, so I really appreciate the reality check. I have never ridden an aluminum frame bike before, and while I like the concept of a lighter bike, everyone I've talked to says they just don't hold up to big guys like me (6'0", 210lb). I just weighed my current bike and it comes in at 25 lbs, and thats much lighter than I thought it was. I have some concerns about the durability of carbon bikes, so I think I'll stick with steel.
Currently I ride 27x1.25 wheels, so going to 28" or 650b shouldn't be a huge change. The more I think about it, the more appealing the fatter tires sound, and the research I did indicates that the rolling resistance shouldn't be significantly different.
At this point, disc brakes are a must given that the weather changes dramatically in Portland, and I want to get into trail riding where the discs are a necessity.
The only thing that I'm confused/hesitant about is the 1x10 gearset. Can you please explain what you mean when you say that most people use their 3x... gearset wrong? Also, how is a modern 1x10 Sram gearset different than an old-school 2x5 freewheel? It seems like if I'm upgrading my bike I should get one with more gear options.
Also, my wife was super enthusiastic when I suggested going up to BC so that I can buy a Brodie bike. Hopefully that's gonna happen in a month or so.
Nothing is for free, the increased weight on the outside of the rim, relative to thinner tires, lead to increased inertia and can be perceived as a slight increase in "resistance" from standstill. However, you will actually get lower rolling resistance, because of reduced tire deflation/reflation at the point of surface contact. Not to mention that the Schwalbe Super Moto X is actually a bit special cookie, and while the thicker rubber surface has significant weight, the pattern is far faster on any tarmac surface in dry/wet conditions than off-road tires, maybe not something you've thought about but I would find some good tight corners on a asphalt downhill road, and get a feel for how the increased traction can be properly utilized in lower speed and or everyday traffic situations.
The tires on the Torque will work very nicely on dry gravel and forest trails, but will not be the best choice for trails with wet roots or mud. Then I'd suggest you just accept you're going to slip anyway, and get something like maybe the Continental Mountain King II or equivalent for wet forest riding.
If you get bitten by the technical trail bug get a different geometry hard tail frame with a 120-140mm travel fork, the Torque is a very good design that fits many different useage scenarios, but it's not exactly made for hardcore downhill...
With several chainrings in front, you have to remember that you can NOT use ALL the gears in the back with each and every front gear, it is a recipe for increased maintenance and also carries higher potential for snapping chains.
Innermost front gear is for mid+ to innermost rear gear/forget heaviest 3. (The lightest gears for low speed uphill crawling)
Middle front gear is for the middle rear gears, and on a 10 speed rear setup I'd try to avoid the top and lower 2 gears/forget heaviest 2 and lightest 2.
Outermost front gear is for mid- to outermost rear gear/forget lightest 3.
Not to mention that some of the gears will have virtually the same exchange ratio, so on a 3x10 setup you're not getting 30 different gears, you are just stratching the lowest a bit lower, and the highest a bit higher, the rest is overlap. Realistically you're extending the top and lower gears by about 2, since many of the gear exchange ratios will be close to equal, so you get about the same span as if you had a 14 speed Rohloff or Kindernay internal gear hub (those are really expensive!).
Kindernay - Kindernay
Quite a few bicyclists are for some reason completely oblivious to this fact, even in competitions people snap chains from not thinking about which gear they are using, or wear out the chainrings faster, or put strain on the wires and springs in the gear change mechanism that increase the frequency for tuning maintenance. *Hmmm, gear chugs and does not change properly, better get it adjusted* - sometimes happen at the end of a single race, even if the bike was 100% set at the beginning).
Yes, with a 3x10 you get a few extra gear exchange ratios, but a 1x10 setup is easier to maintain, it's cheaper, you will be able to actually use all of them, and it will make you a stronger and more capable rider. Use your weight to go UP the hills! I even used to virtually "increase" my weight by pulling myself down with the handlebars, forcing more weight on the pedals, makes you really just fly up the hills, the lighweight cyclists will just stand still and look at you with their jaws on the tarmac. You can do this on a steel or titanium frame, but I've broken a couple of alu frames like this, the alu frames just cannot take the added stress.
Sounds like a win for everyone!
Things you did not ask about:
Wide handlebars vs drop bars:
Wide bars are really good for your breathing capacity. If you're pumping up a hill fast (best workout you can get!), the wide bars will allow you to breathe much more freely, and utilize your lungs capacity to a greater extent. Wide bars also increase control on technical terrain.
Drop bars are great for reducing air resistance, your whole stance on the bike is better suited to slip through air resistance, the elbows tuck in,hands in front of the torso, head in front of shoulders.
I have an actual speaker related update for this thread finally!
After a few months of use I've been very pleased with my printed speakers except for 1 small detail. Certain frequencies at higher volumes would create a very shrill reverb, and I think it is related to the printed infill geometry. Either there are small, loose pieces of plastic rattling around inside the enclosure, or the actual infill was vibrating. Regardless of the source, I ended up pulling out a big chunk of the printed infill and replacing it with traditional speaker stuffing which solved the problem.
Going forward for any new printed speakers I am going go a hybrid approach. Using traditional stuffing in the ~1/3rd of the volume right around the driver, and then printed infill for the rest of the housing. This should help with damping the higher frequencies that cause reverb, and provide significant strength advantages compared to an empty printed enclosure.
After a few months of use I've been very pleased with my printed speakers except for 1 small detail. Certain frequencies at higher volumes would create a very shrill reverb, and I think it is related to the printed infill geometry. Either there are small, loose pieces of plastic rattling around inside the enclosure, or the actual infill was vibrating. Regardless of the source, I ended up pulling out a big chunk of the printed infill and replacing it with traditional speaker stuffing which solved the problem.
Going forward for any new printed speakers I am going go a hybrid approach. Using traditional stuffing in the ~1/3rd of the volume right around the driver, and then printed infill for the rest of the housing. This should help with damping the higher frequencies that cause reverb, and provide significant strength advantages compared to an empty printed enclosure.
The only thing I've ever used for filling voids in a speaker is polyurethane spray-foam.
Perhaps a bit overkill to use in your tiny boxes, but it makes a very rigid structure when it hardens.
If it's possible to use PE foam between two hard layers (inner and outer layers) of 3d printed speaker box, you'd save a ton of time for printing, and it's very light.
Perhaps a bit overkill to use in your tiny boxes, but it makes a very rigid structure when it hardens.
If it's possible to use PE foam between two hard layers (inner and outer layers) of 3d printed speaker box, you'd save a ton of time for printing, and it's very light.
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