Thanks for sharing your result. -So if you had the ts you could made use of them? Maybe they just wont reach down to a subwoofer? I have a Logitech satellit system from which I canwas thinking about putting the sat drivers in an enclosure wired for a headphone friendly impedance for use as a low volume travelspeaker driven by phones headphones output
I think If I had the ts I would have pulled the pin if the fs was really high. I had a look last night at the Dayton ND's and they can go quite low in the Hz. Wasted some scrap timber and some.man hours, so not a lot to complain about.
The part with "you can't design an enclosure for something you don't have specs for" is almost the opposite of truth, I have done it before and the method is based on a combination of comparing enclosures (from simulations) for different drivers of the same size (Sd) with the one you have - you get the minimum and the maximum enclosure sizes, so therefore a thereabouts size; next thing you build one enclosure the see how it sound, in cardboard (must be stiff with high pitch tap sound) if nothing else is worth the time and effort (1 hour of work will usually do it). Usually a second enclosure much larger will give you the ideea of what you get if you go up the size, it's not an accurate method but it works; TABAQ style enclosures allow you to adjust tuning (the port length) and there is more room for adjustment with the internal stuffing, plus they look good, simple to build, sound good. There are ways when you look for them.
Second thing - I don't know if you realized but the maze thing is just a spectacular way of constructing a transmission line, there are other ways, there is nothing special about the maze, it just looks interesting... and I have noticed that the designers of these things have not heard about driver offset.
Can you make a picture of the internals of your enclosure? I am skeptical that driver is that bad, it doesn't look like that in pictures/videos.
Another thing - these small drivers have less oomph bellow 500 hz than larger cones, there is a trick that should work according to theory - make the sidewalls out of thin 4-5 mm panels to let them sing above 120 hz, if they are small enough there will be fine in terms of resonances.
In mine and many others early days it WAS the exact opposite, using only Fs and Altec's nomograph for high impedance amps and a later one for much lower impedance amps:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/altec/plans/1960's-lf-design/page03.jpg
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/altec/plans/1968-enclosure/page04.jpg
Combined with bass, treble tone controls they performed as good as what most folks could afford and worked just fine of course if using Altec, JBL or similar components.
GM
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/altec/plans/1960's-lf-design/page03.jpg
http://www.lansingheritage.org/images/altec/plans/1968-enclosure/page04.jpg
Combined with bass, treble tone controls they performed as good as what most folks could afford and worked just fine of course if using Altec, JBL or similar components.
GM
Maybe these things had a hard life, who knows to be honest, they probably weren't meant to be used on it's own. Combined with the sub they were great and served me well until when moving we snapped off the RCA plug in the back and they we're never the same after that. The 3.5in ones I used we tuned in the late 60's hz and the difference was night and day. As a test I plugged some yahamhas and my t lines in the check and they all had good levels of mid range and Bass.
At the end of the day I matched the volume of the existing box and then provided a wave length equivalent of around 750mm a even dropped my trimmer router and broke it for my efforts lol
At the end of the day I matched the volume of the existing box and then provided a wave length equivalent of around 750mm a even dropped my trimmer router and broke it for my efforts lol
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