diy jobsite boom box

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hi all second time posting here. just wanted to run through some ideas of what i want to achieve and whether its possible to do within reason.

i have a milwaukke jobsite radio which is very good but at loud volumes the sound quality just isnt there.

what i want to do is use one of these tool boxes:
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i plan to line it with what we call flashband over here to deaden the abs plastic case.with an internal 12mm mdf box with seperate selade boxes for the speakers if they require it.

i want it to have dab so i have opted to probally go for this head unit:
XOMAX XM-RD264 Car Stereo with DAB+ Tuner and Antenna I RDS I Bluetooth I USB, SD, AUX I 1 DIN: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

here are the specs of the head unit for quick reference:
General features:

Voltage: 12V DC
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Colour: black-silver
Colour illumination: green, blue, turquoise, white, yellow, red, purple
Standard DIN1 dimension
Monitor:

Type: LED Digital Segment Display
Size: approx. 6,3 x 3,3 cm
Supports:

Media: TF, MicroSD and USB
Formats: MP3 (with ID3 Tags) and WAV
Bluetooth:

Bluetooth version: 2.0 Class 2
Profiles: Headset, Hands-Free, A2DP and AVRCP
Frequency: 2,402 – 2,48 GHz
Output power: +4dBm (max), 0dBm (AVE) Power class 2
AM tuner:

Frequency range: 522 - 1620 KHz
Intermediate frequency: 10.7 MHz
Sensitivity: 30 dB
Audio:

Frequency range: 20Hz - 20KHz
S/N: 85 dB
Channel separation: 80 dB
4 x 60W MOSFET
DAB+ Radio:

Frequency: Band III: 174.928 – 239.200MHz
L-Band: 1452.960 - 1,490.624MHz
Signal: 80dB
Antenna port type: RP-SMA
Antenna output voltage: 11V – 16V
FM tuner:

Frequency range: 87.5-108 MHz
Intermediate frequency: 10.7 MHz
Sensitivity: 5 dB
S/N: 60 dB
Stereo separation: 30 dB (1KHz)
Antenna impedance: 75 Ohm
USB port:

TYPE A, Standard
Support: max. 128 GB
Datasystem: Fat32
SD slot:

TYPE: MicroSD (SD/SDHC/SDXC), TF
Support: max. 128 GB
Datasystem: Fat32
Connectivity (rear):

ISO connector
Radio antenna connector
RP-SMA connector for DAB+ antenna
Audio output - 4x cinch
Connectivity (front):

SD slot
1x USB connection only for charging function of the mobile device
1x USB connection for music files
Auxiliary input


speaker wise is where im stuck dont have enough knowledge to choose whats best for my situation. looking at doing a four speaker arrangement on the front. and possible a woofer of some sort as i want it to have good bass at a reasonably high volume.

also not sure on what sort of amp to go for for it. I've been looking at the pyle mini amps but unsure of how good it will be.

power wise i would like it to run off my drill battery like my milwuakee which is also a charger for it.
i plan to use a makita 18v battery as the power source and in relation to the charging side of things id is a case of simply connecting to the + & - terminals on the charger running through a voltage cut off to stop heavy discharge of the battery and a buck converter to keep 12v going to the head unit whilst battery is being charged?

many thanks and sorry for the long winded post but looking forward to your reply's
 
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I think you need to do some more homework.

First, that car radio thing is an amp, so you don't need an extra amp.

Also, it accepts 12V , but you want to use an 18V battery. Will you add a step down?

In the end, the boom box will cost a lot more to DIY than finding something commercial.
 
Thanks for the reply Percival.

I have done a bit of homework which has brought me to this point so far. With regards to 18v to 12v I thought that's where I spoke about a buck converter to lower the voltage to 12v and also a voltage cut off to stop the voltage of the battery dropping past a certain point of am I misunderstood on how those components work?

With regards to the cost my milwaukke radio cost me 250 quid. I know there's radios commercial available most don't seem to do too well atlouder volumes and I like to tinker and build stuff my self! Its something to keep me busy in the evenings too.
 
Ok,

I missed the part about the buck converter. So, yes, it will do. Although you will lose some power in the conversion.

Do understand that those commercial offerings use plenty of DSP to make them sound better, so without that, you will have to find drivers, and make a box according to them.

There's not much separation between Left and Right channels if you use that box , so there will be comb filtering. The best would be to run in mono. But your amp is for stereo, not mono.

So, maybe, try to find a bluetooth board (if that's how you want to connect to the amp) but that will need another converter, from 18V down to 5V usually.
Easiest would be a line in from your source to the amp.

Then, a simple mono amp, class D.

Probably a single 4 or 5" full range driver, either sealed if you don't need much bass, vented if you want to add some more bass.
 
okay thnks for the reply's. having a look at the link bgruen put up could i use some of the components in that kit to build into my box ie

Amp: TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 4.0 Amplifier Board with Filter and Volume Control for the amp
TPS3116D2 Class D 2.1 Bluetooth 4.0 Amplifier Board 2 x 50W + 100W with Filter and Volume Controls

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio DC130AS-8 5-1/4" Classic Shielded Woofer
Dayton Audio DC130AS-8 5-1/4" Classic Shielded Woofer - SoundImports

Speaker/tweeters/Crossover: Ground Zero Iridium GZIC 13X 13cm/5.25" 2 Way Component Speakers 140W
Ground Zero Iridium GZIC 13X 13cm/5.25" 2 Way Component Speakers 140W | Car Audio Direct

would a passive radiator on the back of the unit help or could it be done away with if i put a vent to it?

thanks adam
 
Here's that same amp at cheaper price:

DC12-24V TPA3116 2.1 50W*2+100W Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI BASS Speaker 710378579601 | eBay

Invest the saved dollars to a bigger woofer etc.

What's the final inside volume of the case? It would be easier to pick up suitable drivers.

Maybe a good combo would be some cheap fullrange drivers and one 6,5" subwoofer, like Tangband or Reckhorn. Those go pretty nicely into a 10 liter bass reflex enclosure, but tuning a small enclosure low enough is tricky.
 
Hello nenola, I have already orders the more expensive amp. It does have Bluetooth built into it also.

I've decided to go with the 5.25 tang subwoofer. I had a rough work out of the size of box it would need and happy with the sizes. I've still got to get a battery pack and charger in the top along with the min I amp and the speakers above it and a 2.1 usb output to power my dab dongle

My inside measurements are W13XH10.5XD9 inches.

With regards to the battery Pack do you know of an alternative charger board like the Dayton lbb-3 That will charge off a 110v supply as onsite in the UK the voltage is 110v

Many thanks for your help
 
With regards to the battery Pack do you know of an alternative charger board like the Dayton lbb-3 That will charge off a 110v supply as onsite in the UK the voltage is 110v
The Dayton lbb-3 requires a 15 to 24 VDC power supply of at least 2A with a 2.1 x 5.5 mm center (+) polarity plug. That type of PSU is commonly available for a nominal 110/120 VAC, though you would also probably need an adaptor to convert the AC plug to your jobsite E85111 110v plug type.
 
Haven't used it in any project yet, so I can't answer. One might think that it has some kind of low voltage protection. And the runtime depends on so many factors.

One boombox I have, has 14,8v 6000mAh LiPo, TPA3116 and two efficient (93dB) 6,5" fullranges. I get probably 20h with that setup.
 
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