guys, hello i'm very very new to the entire speaker building world and dont really understand the back end of the design process when it comes to the variety curves etc. I would really value having some input as im getting confused with what people seem to be making on Youtube as these small compact speakers, which seem to use passive radiators, but in a box that would be closed/sealed. I hear that this is a no no as it is technically a port, but seem to be caught between two trains of thought..
I recently used the Tectonics TEBM65C20F 3.5inch Full Range driver in a T Line box that a member was nice enough to share his successes with, which i really like the sounds of (photo enclosed). I would like to make the smallest enclosure possible using the same small drivers and power it with a Dayton Audio 2x15 watt BT amp/board similar to the T Line. Getting to the point, what is the general consensus on the box type without sacrificing the varying levels of bass/mids and trebles but at the same time maintaining a portable size (ish). The PE site has some pre sized options ie a sealed box seems to be 0.1 ft.³ @ 84Hz and a vented 0.2ft3 @ 50Hz (which is starting to get up there in size)
use small words in the response as i'm only a visitor to this world of audio and to be honest will try to be quite creative when doing the woodworking
Any help/info for a noob in need?
I recently used the Tectonics TEBM65C20F 3.5inch Full Range driver in a T Line box that a member was nice enough to share his successes with, which i really like the sounds of (photo enclosed). I would like to make the smallest enclosure possible using the same small drivers and power it with a Dayton Audio 2x15 watt BT amp/board similar to the T Line. Getting to the point, what is the general consensus on the box type without sacrificing the varying levels of bass/mids and trebles but at the same time maintaining a portable size (ish). The PE site has some pre sized options ie a sealed box seems to be 0.1 ft.³ @ 84Hz and a vented 0.2ft3 @ 50Hz (which is starting to get up there in size)
use small words in the response as i'm only a visitor to this world of audio and to be honest will try to be quite creative when doing the woodworking
Any help/info for a noob in need?
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I've looked at the same driver some while ago. The suggested box is ok, but you can go smaller. For example 3 liters and tuned to 55Hz, quite similar response and you only lose couple Hz from low end.
Then you might consider that do you really need two drivers for a small portable speaker? If they are close together, you won't get much advantage with stereo setup. With single driver and mono amplifier, you will lose couple dB, but can make a box half the size and roughly extend your battery life to 2x. The battery life is something to think about, because those are quite inefficient drivers and require more power.
A cheap approach to PR box would be to get couple 4" PR's from ebay and test with those. I had good results with those paired with Dayton Audio ND91.
More expensive way is to get branded PR's that have know parameters, then you can calculate the optimal box with those.
Then you might consider that do you really need two drivers for a small portable speaker? If they are close together, you won't get much advantage with stereo setup. With single driver and mono amplifier, you will lose couple dB, but can make a box half the size and roughly extend your battery life to 2x. The battery life is something to think about, because those are quite inefficient drivers and require more power.
A cheap approach to PR box would be to get couple 4" PR's from ebay and test with those. I had good results with those paired with Dayton Audio ND91.
More expensive way is to get branded PR's that have know parameters, then you can calculate the optimal box with those.
thanks for the feedback, i think i will use the term "portable" loosely, i have looked at my 3.5inch tectonics similar to my desktop T Line build and designed a box roughly in CAD. Looks like i can use a ported enclosure each side 0.15 cu.ft , with a 1inch port tuned to 61Hz.
currently sitting around 450mm in length, 150mm high and deep. I'm going to attempt to use kerfing again and only use 1 piece of pine, so keeping the width narrow as possible will be better due to the no uniformed grain.
currently sitting around 450mm in length, 150mm high and deep. I'm going to attempt to use kerfing again and only use 1 piece of pine, so keeping the width narrow as possible will be better due to the no uniformed grain.
As per usual I got bored and cut some timber based on the 0.15cu.ft per enclosure and got the one piece of wood and next thing I know........guess I'll be getting the tectonics again
For those who don't know how to bend timber it's called "kerfing" and I have turned 180 degrees using pine. It's quite fun and completely frustrating at the same time but gives you something different to others
For those who don't know how to bend timber it's called "kerfing" and I have turned 180 degrees using pine. It's quite fun and completely frustrating at the same time but gives you something different to others
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