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Aucharm UR330B8-11F full range 12" cabinet ideas?
Aucharm UR330B8-11F full range 12" cabinet ideas?
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Old 11th October 2018, 04:21 PM   #21
RF2000 is offline RF2000  Wales
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I have a jigsaw, and could make support frames/gluing jigs to try the bendy-ply types of cabs I suppose
That would definitely work. You could cut the split moulds from msg with a jigsaw, and if they weren't being cut by a cnc that's the exact same tool I would use myself. I'd then probably guess layers of 1mm plywood would be ideal foe stacking up to make the side panel. The only issue I guess I could identify, is the difficulty associated with cutting lots of rectangles out with a jigsaw. Depending on the size however you might be lucky enough to find panels of birch plywood, close to, or even exactly, the right size. On that, you would also need to work out the length of curve needed, but some CAD design, or a piece of string (If you're being old fashioned ) could tell you that.
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Old 11th October 2018, 04:22 PM   #22
GM is offline GM  United States
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Originally Posted by RF2000 View Post
For sure if you laminate your own plywood it can be made quite stiff, requiring nothing more than some no void board scraps randomly glued on edge.

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Old Yesterday, 05:30 PM   #23
Lingwendil is offline Lingwendil  United States
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Aucharm UR330B8-11F full range 12" cabinet ideas?
Huh, digging through the old pages of the mini-karlsonator thread, I found this post, form xrk971, apparently he had been asked about this driver before! Back in this post.

Originally Posted by Lemonlemon View Post
Hello x, would you be able to help or teach me how to sim a Karlsonator or a Nataloss for the speaker shown below? Thank you!
Originally Posted by Lemonlemon View Post
Herewith the speaker T/S parameters
Originally Posted by xrk971 View Post
Hi Lemon^2,
I use Akabak to simulate the Karlson and Karlsonator. The code I have developed is not public as it contains a lot of IP that I developed. The outline of how I built the model is described here:

Karlson - Page 10 - diyAudio

And here:

A Speaker that Kicks Butt in Large Spaces - diyAudio

And the very interested DIY'er with enough persistence can make their own model using the guidelines I have posted (one other member has done so that I know of).

However, I am more than happy to run a simulation for you and give you the recommmemded speaker design.

The Nautaloss on the other hand, is a straightforward tapered sealed TL with driver at one end, that can be modeled using HornResp, or any other number of codes. Make a TL at least 3 ft long when spiral is in-coiled. Have it start as wide as driver and taper to a point.

The specific driver you show is a typical soft suspension full range driver probably suited to open baffle. With a rather large Qts (weak motor) and floppy suspension (large 218 liter Vas) says you need a box on the order of 8 cubic feet (huge) to realize the low end bass that it has. If you put it in a Nautaloss of reasonable size, its low end will roll of in ten 200-300Hz range and is suitable for a FAST (2 way with woofer crossover around 300Hz-600Hz).

It won't work in a Karlsonator very well - unless it's a very large one. But maybe that is just as well as the magnet is huge in size.

This may work in a large enclosure that is hollow but completely vented on the bottom toward the floor - no bottom panel and elevated with feet to allow sound to escape. Make a large 8 cubic foot box about 14in wide x 19in deep x 43in tall and elevate bottom by 1.5in to 2in feet with no bottom panel. Mount driver at about 15in from the top (centerline), add stuffing from top to just below driver and held in place by a netting to keep the stuffing from falling. Line 2 of the walls with 2in thick fiberglass or 0.5in thick felt from where full stuffing is on down. You can be creative and make the enclosure non rectangular but keeping the same cross sectional area. Tear drop shape is a good one with curved walls. It's still a very large and imposing speaker but will probably sound pretty good as designed. That can be done without any simulation at all based on the range of Qts and Vas and type of driver that it appears to be. Certain large back loaded horns may work too (like ones by Kohu).
Funny how things come around, huh?

I haven't forgotten about this build, just back-burner until a good box is figured out. I'm thinking hollow bottom may end up one of the top choices though, unless a similar enough size can be made to work with horn loading of some sort, for a more "sophisticated" alignment of sorts.
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