New Markaudio Drivers

I am planning to use Alpair 7ms in a WAW speaker for mid-tweeter duty. I will be using Peerless 830869 Nomex cone woofer. How are the mids and highs in Alpair 7 ms? I am looking forward to use 300hz as crossover point using 1st order low pass and high pass filter arranged inside a PLLXO box. There is a hump in Alpair 7ms frequency response at around 150-200 hz which I am worried about. Can it be done? Please give your valuable opinions. If not,then alternatively Alpair 5.3 is my second choice. Which among these(Alpair 7 ms and 5.3) will give better results with 1st order passive line level crossover at 300hz?
 
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Thank you dave. Can you please take a look at the spec sheet and frequency response of Alpair 7ms and give your opinion whether it could be crossed at 300 hz using first order filter. I am planning to go for PLLXO route.

I have some A7MS also. They don't go very loud or very low so if you cross at 300Hz, you may need 2nd order. It, of course, depends on the room size and how much SPL you think you want or need. FWIW, I didn't like the top end sound of these compared to other MA drivers of the same size. It may just be my personal tastes; you won't know for sure until you try them for yourself.
 
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Well, to be fair here, I am in my mid 60's so I have to use a super tweeter regardless. I prefer the Pluvia 7PHD because of the purposeful roll off on the high end. For my tastes anyway; the A7MS doesn't sound all that natural. Many say that the best sounding MA is the A7.3. Planet 10 does the A7.3 en if you want to spend more; I haven't heard them personally but many people think they are the ones to beat.

If your budget allows; I would say go for the A7.3 en; if not, the regular A7.3 (discontinued by the way but some people still stock them). If you are like me and suffer hearing loss above 8KHz or so; I prefer the P7P and super tweeter combination. Many others here will totally disagree with that of course.

If you are unsure; you could ask your supplier about returns and refunds. I do this all the time. As long as you don't scratch or damage anything, don't solder (just use clip leads for quick tests, etc. most suppliers will allow returns within a certain time frame (usually 30 to 60 days). Some people seem to be perfectly happy with the A7MS so if you want to try them for yourself; I say go for it. Just make sure you can send them back if you don't like them. The A7MS break-in time is much shorter than most MA drivers because it has no spider that needs to "loosen up"

Just my 2 cents worth; listening tastes are after all personal; I compare it to art. Everyone's tastes are different; that doesn't make it right or wrong at all.
 
I got the P7PHD yesterday and a bookshelf box (140x210x260) with the front port suggested by Markaudio official website.

I compare with my old A7m3. Human voice from P7PHD is a bit too sharp. I am not sure if it's still in breaking in period. I really find it scream when i play female vocal.

I will put wool inside instead of synthetic fibre inside to see if it helps. Any other suggestion to improve the sound are welcome.
 
Just wait for the break-in time. And I don't think you necessarily have to replace the type of damping material. just keep adding more of the same polyfill. more quantity of stuffing will help you dampen the brightness. keep a record of how much you add each time. But again before doing all this wait for the break in period
 
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Joined 2019
It has a hump around 5 KHz or so that does tame down eventually. I am using mine as a very wide band midrange so I have a single inductor on it for low pass around 4200 Hz or so. I am using a 0.25 mH, 14 AWG equivalent flat foil and it smooths out the top "just enough" for "ME". Again; I am using a super tweeter because of my hearing loss starting around 8 KHz. Most Mark audio drivers take a minimum of 100 hours to break in well. WHAT EVER YOU DO; DON'T HIT IT WITH TOO MUCH BASS OR POWER...until it has at least 100 hours on it.

If, after well broken in, you decide you don't want to keep them; I'll be happy to buy them from you (assuming shipping charges aren't ridiculous from your location).
 
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Joined 2019
I have mine in a "non-box"; no parallel surfaces to avoid standing waves. You can try felt damping on the walls; convoluted or pyramid shape foam a few inches behind the driver then fill the rest of the box with poly fill. I do this with some of my other drivers; I think the pyramids or irregular curves of the foam help break up and help absorb reflections that can go back through the cone from inside to outside. The cone material is light and thin so it is very picky about "reflection energy".

I will try to copy and paste my foam; it comes in many thicknesses...

Collections – SoundAssured

Acoustic Foam Pyramid Panels – SoundAssured

These are sold to recording studios; there are data sheets that show the frequencies and absorptions; normally for use on walls but I find they hep inside the speaker box; especially if you have many parallel walls that tend to exaggerate standing waves, etc.
 
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I think the edge wound ("rectangular"?) voice coil helps give it better high definition (thus the HD in the part number/name). I read this was the reason they are using this VC style and configuration; supposed to have better control over the signal; I think in part because the magnetic field is more concentrated than if using a more conventional round wound type voice coil???
 
OK, can I ask a question here - I am totally new to all this DIY stuff, want to build a pair of speakers.
I've pretty much decided on the KJF audio pensil 11 kit, but now have to decide on the driver - the Mar Audio Alpair 11 or the way more expensive MAOP 11.
I've spent several days reading threads about cabinets, can anyone please spare my eyes and give me a brief comparison between the two - that does the extra money get me ?
If it helps, my room is 4x5m, amp is an EWA Q20 class A, current speakers are Graham Audio LS6f's (sort of BBC sound I gather) music is radio paradise-ish.
Many thanks !
 
Simplesteve

Attempting to build your first speakers will be challenging as well as enjoyable. Pensils are simple to build compared to other popular designs like Frugel horns.It will be pretty doable with a flatpack or kit.
What i have read is you get better stage and dynamics with MAOP drivers compared to their regular counterparts. Finesse and better accuracy can also be expected from them. Now these factors and their degree of achievement will impress you or not,depend entirely on you. If you want to spend the extra amounts for those attributes then MAOP 11 should be preferable over Alpair 11ms in my opinion.
 
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MAOP is considered by some gurus to be as about as good as it can get. I would love to have some MAOP 7 some day. I did send MA an e mail months ago asking how much a pair was and how much they cost shipped to the USA. I never got a reply. I have read that they are rare and hard to come by and are very expensive. Keep us updated; really want to get more inputs on anyone that has or will soon have any MAOP.