I think you would have almost no force cancellation. My understanding is that the most effective method physically couples the two drivers as closely as possible and that this is most desirable in the bass. An offset bipole helps with room modes. I'd vote for the offset in a well braced box.
This is what I think of when I hear offset bipole- http://p10hifi.net/planet10/CSS/EL70/Griffin-offset-bipole-mltl-100909.pdf You could take it further by building one speaker with the back driver below the front and one with the back driver above the front. If you had a wide baffle you could vary where you mount all the drivers and you could use different distances to the side walls. Just ideas to play with. I'm not sure about closely coupled full range drivers. I'd be worried that it would muck up the mids and treble but maybe not. At any rate, you would not get the benefits of that a true offset bipole is designed to give.
It seems to be a common theme here. Symmetry is the enemy.
Correctomundo! For high aspect ratio cabs, the subject is acoustical loading in a bounded space, so standing waves/eigenmodes rule and as such, driver
In a simple sealed or vented alignment OTOH, the air mass 'spring' is considered to have a ~uniform particle density, so no eigenmodes, ergo the driver
GM
What drivers will you be using?
I've got a bunch of different drivers lying around from various projects but would most likely use the widerange tangband W3-871 or some of the cheap 8" fullrangers I have. I've already made a very basic 12"sealed sub and also have four 8" polycones for future bass duties.
Like many here I spend far more time thinking about building speaker than actually cutting wood and now my new job is really eating into the time I have to mess around with this hobby :/
I believe the mark audio pluvia 7 will work with the design I linked with no modification. Correct me if I'm wrong gang.
Haha! Buy more drivers? SWMBO won't be pleased
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