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Old 8th March 2018, 05:42 PM   #11
Scottmoose is offline Scottmoose  United Kingdom
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There isn't a vent. It's just part of the line. You can, but I wouldn't myself.
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Old 8th March 2018, 05:56 PM   #12
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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Ah, ok. Thanks for explaining. I won't flare it.
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Old 8th March 2018, 10:54 PM   #13
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Woden Falcon Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrouin View Post
A question just occurred to me: Since this build uses material that is 1/4" thicker than spec'd in Scott's original design, might it be worthwhile to chamfer or flare the vent opening at the back?
Not really.

I have converted a couple of these kind of Scott boxes from one thickness to another and am quite anal about it, but Scott is much less caring… you’ll be fine.

dave
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Old 8th March 2018, 11:11 PM   #14
scottjoplin is offline scottjoplin  Wales
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Originally Posted by jdrouin View Post
The grain is so open and deep that I think sanding would probably ruin it.
Rustins Grainfiller | Stainable Grain Filler | Wood Grain Filler
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Old 15th March 2018, 02:31 PM   #15
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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Thanks for the grainfiller suggestion, scottjoplin. I will try to find that locally.

The material I'm working with has two different colors/grain patterns that I like for different reasons, so I made two pair of front baffles just to see how they'd look. One is lighter in color with better grain clarity and interesting patterns (as well as figures), the other is darker and redder with thicker and straighter grain. So I did a couple schedule boards with Watco Natural Danish Oil to see how that would affect the appearance. The boards are unsanded and divided into three sections: unfinished, Danish oil with no pre-stain (middle), and Danish oil with two coats of pre-stain (to see if it would even up the color contrast for a more consistent tone).

In the attached pics they are placed next to the driver to get a sense of how the box would look either way.
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Last edited by jdrouin; 15th March 2018 at 02:34 PM.
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Old 16th March 2018, 04:10 PM   #16
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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Started gluing today with the top and rear panels of speaker A, using right angle guides to try and keep everything square. The risk with this approach is that the side edges of the two pieces don't match up, which could throw off the seal when gluing on the final side. It took some finess with the right angle guides and bar clamps to make sure they didn't wander under pressure. I also used biscuits at that joint to keep things stable.

Testing revealed that the depth/angle guide on my cheap Ryobi biscuit jointer is very difficult to get square. It's far more accurate to measure, draw lines with a pencil, and use the guide marks on the side and bottom.

I think I'm going to go with the lighter/clearer grain on the visible sides in order to let the material show itself to best effect. Also, since most FF-series builds seem to use dark red/brown colors, this would be a little different.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0020.jpg (731.8 KB, 173 views)

Last edited by jdrouin; 16th March 2018 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 16th March 2018, 04:33 PM   #17
Scottmoose is offline Scottmoose  United Kingdom
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Keeping an eye on progress.
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Old 17th March 2018, 03:14 PM   #18
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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I’ve got a question that could affect how I construct the front baffle. If I chamfer the side edges along the front, is there an optimum baffle width to aim for?

Looking at everything pieced together for a dry fit, since I’m using nominal 3/4” (18mm) material, the external width is increased by 1/2” for a total of about 6 1/2”. It looks substantial enough that it might warrant attention for matching frequency response with the bass waves emanating from the rear or for proper dispersion from the front.
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Old 17th March 2018, 03:36 PM   #19
Scottmoose is offline Scottmoose  United Kingdom
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Within reason, not particularly. In this application it's primarily cosmetic, so I'd use whatever is the largest practical for your build material & leave it at that.
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Old 22nd March 2018, 06:40 PM   #20
jdrouin is offline jdrouin  United States
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OK, thanks. Decision will be cosmetic -- either a 45* chamfer down the front side edges or a 3/8" roundover of all edges. Will see how it looks when sealed and flush-trimmed.

Coming along slowly but accurately. Exterior sides are square. Using biscuits to keep the manifolds square and properly spaced.
Attached Images
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