Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Dallas II Build
Dallas II Build
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 8th February 2018, 04:50 PM   #11
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Hopefully I only have to build these bad boys once. The tilting router table would be awesome but the plane should be able to tear through that wood fairly quickly. Let’s find out!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 12:07 PM   #12
fb2017 is offline fb2017
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
I have built myself a pair more than a year ago, still enjoyign them as much as in the first day.
18mm all the way, it is a big difference if you use thicker stock. Under NO circumstances I would use thinner stock, as it will certainly be prone to resonances, sound colouring, etc...

The plans you shared, they are made for 18mm stock, you can do the math on the geormetry, and they are what I've used. If somebody is updating the plans (Planet10?) I do have a very efficient cutting arrangement, that allows reducing the material losses by quite a lot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyngfish View Post
Attachment 661120

Hi All - I started breaking down some Baltic Birch stock last night and drawing lines for a Dallas II build. I'll post pictures here as I progress - but I had two quick questions:
  • I noticed the plans shared on the forum were made for 1/2" stock, my baltic birch is 3/4" I don't especially want to start redrawing, how big a deal is that 1/4" internal dimension? Should I redo?
  • I have a track saw, table saw and sliding miter saw, so I think I'm good with the tools. The miter should easily handle the 11+ inch width for the angled cuts. EXCEPT that 12 degree cut on the 28 inch board. I'm trying to visualize the best way to do it, but the only way I can see is by standing that board up and hoping those 12 degrees clear my miter housing. Anyone else have any clever ideas? Chisel? Handsaw? Sandpaper?

Thanks!
  Reply With Quote
Old 19th February 2018, 07:08 PM   #13
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Dallas II Build
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbbf View Post
If somebody is updating the plans (Planet10?) I do have a very efficient cutting arrangement, that allows reducing the material losses by quite a lot.
Thanx.

Please forward it to me and i will add it to the plans. I have added the reference to 18mm, but need to go over the plans and see if there is anything else i can add to the plans before posting the update so the timing is ideal.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 06:32 PM   #14
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Default Update and question

Hi all. So. Making progress on the build. I followed the plans here from Planet10 for measurements and applied them to the cutting plans also attached. Fairly easy. I broke it all down with a track saw and it all looks fairly accurate. The interior pieces will be cut down from a series of long pieces all the same width. 11 1/32”. In looking at the pieces I think track saws being what they are and my own human error - over the course of the long cuts I’m off by that 1/32” at times. Should I stick these things on the table saw and true them up or just not bother?

Thanks!

477543A9-61DE-42C0-BA51-C1253E8400E6.jpg
Dallas2-plans-redraw-251215.pdf
IMG_4178.PNG

Last edited by Kyngfish; 3rd March 2018 at 06:36 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 07:19 PM   #15
IslandPink is offline IslandPink  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
I'm going to have to start on one of these myself some time this year, been looking at the design and Ron Clarke's posting for ages. Very interested to hear what you think .
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 08:34 PM   #16
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Dallas II Build
True is more important than exact size. Note that the imperial measurement is an approximation of the (to the mm) metric native sizes.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 10:16 PM   #17
phivates is offline phivates  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Willamette Valley
I re-rip everything so that the odd discrepancy will be cleaned up. That said, having all your 90 degree cuts accurate is vital when so many angled panels are involved. No wonder people gravitate to cnc if they can afford it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 10:33 PM   #18
Kyngfish is offline Kyngfish  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Quote:
Originally Posted by phivates View Post
I re-rip everything so that the odd discrepancy will be cleaned up. That said, having all your 90 degree cuts accurate is vital when so many angled panels are involved. No wonder people gravitate to cnc if they can afford it.
Lol. I think if I could afford it, Id still try to do it with a table saw. Using a computer is cheating.
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 10:43 PM   #19
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Dallas II Build
CNC — unless 5-axis won’t help with trimming the ends to the righ angles, and would likely be slower. And it won’t cut any straighter than a CNC panel saw or well setup an doperated table saw. More waste too.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 3rd March 2018, 11:20 PM   #20
phivates is offline phivates  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Willamette Valley
Agree on the cheating. 20th century attitude. I don't want a router to do the work of a proper saw even if one can plop a panel onto the thing and watch it do every step. Too easy!
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Dallas II BuildHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Dallas II build question kr1s Full Range 12 1st February 2015 10:32 PM
Dallas III wat44 Full Range 7 27th January 2010 11:30 PM
Hello from Dallas mattlang Introductions 5 14th January 2010 12:08 AM
Where is the Dallas II amisdad Full Range 16 5th November 2005 04:57 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:55 AM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.00%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio
Wiki