Due to the fat bezel the driver really benefits from being rebated. Either make th ebaffle full-width or add a small full-width supraBaffle or just a piece as thick as the bezel to make it flush.
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/markaudio/A6x-dims.pdf
dave
http://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/markaudio/A6x-dims.pdf
dave
I've read conflict ideas about my following proposal.
In order to rise them up to ear height I could created a false chamber on the bottom and fill it with sand. This would keep keep them where they should be and put more weight on the thin foam I use between speakers and the floor.
Will this cause any issues?
In order to rise them up to ear height I could created a false chamber on the bottom and fill it with sand. This would keep keep them where they should be and put more weight on the thin foam I use between speakers and the floor.
Will this cause any issues?
I think leaving as-is would probably be better and I'm interested in the broader sweet spot.
Finished! Well, not finished but built and ready to be finished. First impression are varied.
First off, thanks to Dave and Scott for helping with this invaluable assistance and has taught me a lot!
Right, so in short, for me these absolutely excel in stereo image. They certainly trick you into being deceived by size. Bass is difficult as the room I'm in has a poor relationship with anything under 80hz, but now I have positioned them much closer they have more thump. Is this something that will change as they break-in?
Also, I am concerned I haven't got enough stuffing in as I can hear a fair amount of mid bass and mid range coming out of the port, is this normal?
I want to round over the edges of the vertical corners, will this compromise sound?
The treble end is a little bit ragged, should I be patient and wait for them to break in?
This was the first project I have done with a router and it kind of got away from me on the port of one side! The circles took ages to cut not having a plunger router and they are a little off center. I also flush mounted them 1mm too deep but I can't see that being an issue.
I have a condensor mic and may try measuring them at some point, maybe when its warmer and I can use them outside. In fact, I look forward to getting this in to an environment where the room modes don't ruin the bottom end. How would I measure them, a meter away and between the driver and port?
All in all, these are really lovely little speakers, I can't wait for the 300 hours of breaking is up and they will have pupated (?) or come out of pupa, or whatever, when they become butterflies and all that, they will be different. Really great stereo image and great overall character.
Any thoughts or constructive crit wlecome!
Thanks
First off, thanks to Dave and Scott for helping with this invaluable assistance and has taught me a lot!
Right, so in short, for me these absolutely excel in stereo image. They certainly trick you into being deceived by size. Bass is difficult as the room I'm in has a poor relationship with anything under 80hz, but now I have positioned them much closer they have more thump. Is this something that will change as they break-in?
Also, I am concerned I haven't got enough stuffing in as I can hear a fair amount of mid bass and mid range coming out of the port, is this normal?
I want to round over the edges of the vertical corners, will this compromise sound?
The treble end is a little bit ragged, should I be patient and wait for them to break in?
This was the first project I have done with a router and it kind of got away from me on the port of one side! The circles took ages to cut not having a plunger router and they are a little off center. I also flush mounted them 1mm too deep but I can't see that being an issue.
I have a condensor mic and may try measuring them at some point, maybe when its warmer and I can use them outside. In fact, I look forward to getting this in to an environment where the room modes don't ruin the bottom end. How would I measure them, a meter away and between the driver and port?
All in all, these are really lovely little speakers, I can't wait for the 300 hours of breaking is up and they will have pupated (?) or come out of pupa, or whatever, when they become butterflies and all that, they will be different. Really great stereo image and great overall character.
Any thoughts or constructive crit wlecome!
Thanks
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This is the stuff, I worked out that 32cm wide by the length of the cabinet equals 60g as specified in the plans. I put it so its is a U shape around the two side and rear panels. Do you think it needs more? As mentioned in an earlier post I felt this stuff is a little courser.
https://www.johnlewis.com/wadding-f...VuBbTCh1CVwvZEAQYASABEgLnBPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.johnlewis.com/wadding-f...VuBbTCh1CVwvZEAQYASABEgLnBPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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The only access I have is through the speaker hole so it would be hard to remove/reinsert anything. I was thinking maybe a length of the same stuff down the middle of the U shape I described...?
Can you try with teased out poly fill? Pillows, kids toys can be a good donor.
It is likely that highs will sound smoother.
Hmm... that makes it a little tricky. If I am not wrong the driver cutout is 3.5" in diameter. Not sure if that is adequate for you.
Will putting in some more of the same stuff in the U shape help? Don't know. From an experience long time back with CHR-70.2, poly batting placed near the rear of the driver cone was resulting in a raspy sound in the upper mids and treble.
Another thing you can try - can you take out the driver and listen to it in free air? Let us know if it still sounds rough in the treble.
How many hours do you have on the drivers?
24 hours, am I being impatient? Does break in make that much of a difference in reality?
I think playing the drivers in free air with the same music where you perceived some raggedness in the output would dispel doubts/confusion. Should be pretty simple to do. And regarding hours, probably 50 odd would be good... but then again there are others who would opine that it's not required.
What amplification are you using?
Yes, they will change with break-in. I never bother listening unless the speaker has a couple hundred hrs on the break-in bench… the 1st 20-25 hrs can be painful.
In the picture of the damping you just have the BAF quilting laid into the box… you really need to break it up and tease it out.
The vent should have little low bass (20-40) Hz coming out of it (the speaker does not really go that low), likely some midbass too (40-80 Hz), less upper bass (80-160) Hz, and anything above that should be vanishing.
If you can, take a meachanics stehescope and listen to the wall… the particle board/MDF you used is not ideal.
And be careful with listening to them before finsihing them, you may find they remain unfinished for a long time.
dave
In the picture of the damping you just have the BAF quilting laid into the box… you really need to break it up and tease it out.
The vent should have little low bass (20-40) Hz coming out of it (the speaker does not really go that low), likely some midbass too (40-80 Hz), less upper bass (80-160) Hz, and anything above that should be vanishing.
If you can, take a meachanics stehescope and listen to the wall… the particle board/MDF you used is not ideal.
And be careful with listening to them before finsihing them, you may find they remain unfinished for a long time.
dave
That's a good idea, I will try that on the weekend. Attached is an image of how the stuffing looks going down the cab. I pull it apart as best I could without ruining the structure of the wadding.
I'm using the hifimediy t1-m amp running on 20v charger.
I'm using the hifimediy t1-m amp running on 20v charger.
I think playing the drivers in free air with the same music where you perceived some raggedness in the output would dispel doubts/confusion. Should be pretty simple to do. And regarding hours, probably 50 odd would be good... but then again there are others who would opine that it's not required.
What amplification are you using?
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