Pair of CHR70.3's Just Ordered!

[coopman]

Now to decide what enclosures to put them in. They will be used as desk top near field PC monitors and I'd like to make the cabinets as small as I can get by with to preserve desk space (there is no nearby wall either). Any recommendations are appreciated. If these turn out to be good, I will probably add a sub for a great 2.1 system. I'm hoping that these will sound really good. I've seen some good comments about them here. I'm kind of worried about the soldering of the speaker wires to the terminals, with those plastic pieces nearby.
Thanks,
Clay

 

[planet10]

These work in a milliSize enclosure — ie 4.7 litre… not much smaller.

dave

 

[coopman]

Dave,


That 4.7L enclosure is for a bass reflex cabinet or a sealed one? Thanks.

 

[IG81]

If you think of adding a subwoofer, 8L sealed, or a bit smaller with more stuffing, looks good to me, especially with the built-in elevated mid-bass. Even without a sub I'm sure it'd be fair enough in the bass department. Will they have their back to a wall?

 

[coopman]

No wall nearby the way the room is currently arranged. I have my PC desk out in the middle of a 12' x 12' room.

 

[coopman]

Also what gauge of hook up wire should I use for these (between the binding posts & the speaker terminals)? Thanks.

 

[planet10]

That 4.7L enclosure is for a bass reflex cabinet or a sealed one?

Vented. Here are sealed sims. Looks like 7.4 litre net will give you a Q suitable to XO to something underneath, F3 = just under 90 Hz. Do note that the damping pluff you use inside the box will increase the effective size of the box, so something like 6.3 litres is a good target.

We use 24g solid for internal wiring (and usually for external to). A pair of stands pulled from a length of CAT5 cable.

dave

 

[coopman]

I will probably build the slim, deep 7.5 liter BR cabinets that are shown on the markaudio website. I am tempted by the Pensil R70.3 design though, I will admit.

 

[planet10]

With the Pensils you might find the subwoofer superfluous.

dave

 

[coopman]

If I went with the Pensil cabinets, I would have my raised laptop monitor between me & the speakers, which would mess up the imaging. I am experiencing this same issue in another room. Based on this problem, I believe that the smaller desktop cabinets sitting on each side of my laptop would be the better option. Does anyone put their Pensils on stands to raise them up higher? - that's the only thing that I can think of to solve my issue with their placement.

 

[planet10]

You are using the laptop’s monitor? That close the 4” CHR might be pushing it for closeness.

If you are going as large as 7.5 litre, my Classic Golden Ratio dCHR-Ken70 is only 1.5 litre larger. Frugal-phile | Box Library / Mark Audio

dave

 

[coopman]

Yes, I sit here & surf the web on my laptop while listening to music via youtube. I am using a pair of Paul Carmody's "Hitmakers" from Parts Express currently. These were my first and only speaker builds thus far. They are about 28" from my ears. I typically don't crank them up very often though. My wife sits about 8' from me most of the time and she doesn't like loud music. I'm not all that fond of it either these days!
I like the look of your Slim Classic GR dCHR-Ken70 design.

 

[planet10]

CHR-Ken

Pronounced:

dave

 

[chrisb]

"release the Kraken"

 

[suprf1y]

 

[chrisb]

Personally rather like Bermuda's own Gosling Black Seal in a Dark 'n Stormy (when you can find a decent not over spiced Ginger Beer) . The results are the same, but it doesn't have quite as scary a label

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[coopman]

I don't have any way of recessing the face of the driver into the front baffle as shown on the plans. Will this have a big detrimental effect on the sound?

 

[planet10]

Generally yes. The big bezel of most of the Mark Audios is ideally rebated. Also important is to champher the back of the driver cutout (whether tidely with a router or crudely with a rasp). You can succeed by using 2 layers the top layer as thick as the bezel (6mm). The material can be cork or wood or felt (or layers of felt.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

dave

 

[coopman]

Thanks for your help Dave.

 

[coopman]

One more concern: the soldering of the wires to the speaker terminals. What's the best way to do that without melting the plastic pieces connected to the metal tab?