Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Another FHXL Build
Another FHXL Build
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 21st July 2017, 04:34 AM   #21
planet10 is online now planet10  Canada
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Another FHXL Build
I know the answer to #1 (both surfaces — from watching chris in action), am waiting for him to chime in.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st July 2017, 05:18 AM   #22
chrisb is offline chrisb
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
There are probably several "formulas", but my own is :
-short nap 3" paint roller, look to achieve a very light "eggshell" texture on both surfaces, extra thick around the edges
- two very thin coats of glue to each surface, dry between 10-15 min between(depending on ambient air temp /humidity)
- let dry to the touch before ironing on
- use a cheap dedicated clothes iron ( not your wife's nice steamer) set to highest temp (usually labelled "linen") , don't worry about any minor scorching on edges, around driver cut outs, etc - in fact they can provide a guide for the trimming out of rebated driver cut-outs, and will sand out
- I've never found a veneer roller necessary- the slow continuous pressure of the iron has been enough
- for designs that are tilted back, I like the grain to follow the angle (in the case of the FHs, 5dg), as well as to wrap the grain figuring contiguously around the sides and top in matched pattern on the pair. With the curved side panels of this design, that means with careful alignment you'll be able to yield both enclosures from a single 4x8ft sheet, with some awkward offcuts/waste - IIWII
- I do the fronts (and backs when applicable) first, then the two sides, and the tops (bottoms) last. It's unavoidable that the exposed edges of the paper substrate will show, but I've found that with careful trimming/sanding, that doesn't stand out much.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd July 2017, 12:59 AM   #23
Eric is offline Eric  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Eric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
Another FHXL Build
Thanks for all of the details! After a little practice on a few scraps, I'll give it a go with the speakers.
__________________
DIY Theater, Aleph-X Amps, LDR based BA-3 pre, B1 Korg, Pearl II, modified SL-1200 TT, F4, M2, Aleph-J, MoFo, a40, ACAs, FHXL & TB 1772 speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th August 2017, 10:55 PM   #24
Eric is offline Eric  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Eric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
Another FHXL Build
Dave, I sent you small piece of felt in the mail a short while ago. Just checking to see if you think this is suitable for use in FHXLs. I would have followed up sooner, but I've been out of town for the past two weeks with the family for a vacation.
__________________
DIY Theater, Aleph-X Amps, LDR based BA-3 pre, B1 Korg, Pearl II, modified SL-1200 TT, F4, M2, Aleph-J, MoFo, a40, ACAs, FHXL & TB 1772 speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th August 2017, 11:06 PM   #25
planet10 is online now planet10  Canada
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Another FHXL Build
It is on the denser side of ideal, but will work fine.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th August 2017, 11:28 PM   #26
Eric is offline Eric  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Eric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
Another FHXL Build
Interesting. I thought it was soft, but it does have a rather smooth finished side. What kind of stuff do you typically recommend?
__________________
DIY Theater, Aleph-X Amps, LDR based BA-3 pre, B1 Korg, Pearl II, modified SL-1200 TT, F4, M2, Aleph-J, MoFo, a40, ACAs, FHXL & TB 1772 speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th August 2017, 11:33 PM   #27
planet10 is online now planet10  Canada
frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
 
planet10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III
Another FHXL Build
What we really liked was the original ultratouch felt, it was close to perfect. That was discontinued (or to get more would cost more rolls than the small diy market would handle). The uktratouch we use now is lower density but works fine, yours will too.

dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi
p10-hifi forum here at diyA
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th August 2017, 11:40 PM   #28
Eric is offline Eric  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Eric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
Another FHXL Build
Good to know - thanks for the feedback, Dave. My veneer arrived last week, so I'll be able to make some progress again shortly.
__________________
DIY Theater, Aleph-X Amps, LDR based BA-3 pre, B1 Korg, Pearl II, modified SL-1200 TT, F4, M2, Aleph-J, MoFo, a40, ACAs, FHXL & TB 1772 speakers
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th August 2017, 02:21 AM   #29
Mr_Zenith is offline Mr_Zenith  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Mr_Zenith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: KC Metro
Another FHXL Build
Hi Eric - those speakers are absolutely gorgeous! I'll be following your progress as you finish up for sure. I just received the XL plans myself a couple of days ago (thanks Dave!), and was looking for ideas. There's lots of good info in this thread.

My current project is a version of the Red Light District using aluminum, maple and bubinga. It's gorgeous wood but it ain't cheap, usually going for roughly twice the price of cherry. I got lucky and purchased mine by the pound as 3" (~76 mm) wide cutoffs from one of the national woodworking store chains. It was an impulse buy for one of those "someday" projects, except that "someday" turned out to be just 3 months later!

I'm ~8 hours into breaking in a pair of Alpair 10.3s, and so far I'm extremely impressed. I had reservations about them at first because of their relative insensitivity, but my little 4-watt RH84 (single-ended pentode) drives them to satisfying levels - and that's with them "mounted" in their shipping boxes and playing in a 24 x17 living room. I can't wait to hear them mounted in the FHXL cabinets!
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th August 2017, 01:14 PM   #30
Eric is offline Eric  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Eric's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Central PA, USA
Another FHXL Build
Zenith: thanks for sharing your kind comments on my build! BTW- nice avatar - I've got a few radio restoration projects on my web page (signature link). Looks like your new amp would be a great match to my speakers! What kind of finish are you using for your bubinga? I'm still playing with finishes to see what I like. So far, my plan is to put 3-4 coats of 100% tung oil (to accent the grain) then cover with some semi-gloss Formby's Tung Oil Finish to build a bit of a protective layer on top. The challenge is to keep the Formby's from making the finished speaker look like shiny plastic - I think a little wiping after application and a gentle scrub with a grey pad between coats will help with this.

The veneer arrived and looks very nice. It's a bit thicker than I was expecting, a total of 0.027" including the 10mil paper backer. I started laying out how I will cut pieces from it to maximize the leftover for another project. I left about 1/2" to 3/4" border around all of my pieces as I traced things out. Given that I don't have an 8'x4' hard work space for cutting with a razor knife, I discovered that it cuts sufficiently well with a heavy pair of scissors. I also had some good success gluing up a scrap of veneer to a right-angle set of boards that I made for test purposes. Chris - your advice for applying glue worked great, thank you! It looks like the biggest challenge will be to keep the veneer from shifting slightly as the glue melts under the hot iron. I guess the solution is to press the iron (and veneer) in the direction of the joint to keep things better aligned and more hidden. I also glued my kraft paper (layer between veneer and iron to keep glue off the iron) to the edge of my test strip because I was a bit too generous with the glue in that spot... Practice, practice, practice to eliminate surprises.

Also, I found a digital angle-finder to be invaluable while setting up my table saw for the 5 degree angle cuts when making the cabinets. I think it came from Harbor Freight or some similar outlet for a few bucks. This is a highly recommended tool!

Question: What is the ideal distance between the bottom of the driver hole and the bottom of the netting to hold the acoustastuff in place? Should it just be a loose fill with air spaces around it (if I place the netting 15" or so below the driver), or is it intended to be a more discrete plug / "air flow" barrier for the driver (if I place the netting 10" or so below the driver)?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Veneer Small.JPG (95.0 KB, 310 views)
File Type: jpg VeneerLayout.JPG (61.8 KB, 302 views)
File Type: jpg AngleCuts.JPG (68.1 KB, 298 views)
__________________
DIY Theater, Aleph-X Amps, LDR based BA-3 pre, B1 Korg, Pearl II, modified SL-1200 TT, F4, M2, Aleph-J, MoFo, a40, ACAs, FHXL & TB 1772 speakers

Last edited by Eric; 8th August 2017 at 01:25 PM.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Another FHXL BuildHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Adapt Polk Audio R20 for Classix II build or build box? unpredictableape Multi-Way 3 3rd April 2017 07:25 AM
LJM MX50-SE - Build Log Gallery & My Build Progress dakku Solid State 3 28th October 2016 08:49 AM
Pensil 10.3 vs FHxl sajgre Planet 10 hifi 13 7th May 2016 08:37 PM
question:How to build How to build music player with tda1543 use rapspberry pi B+? gary095315 Digital Source 1 30th December 2015 07:35 AM
Do i need to build main supply (240v) filter?Or build power distribution? thomgun_lc Chip Amps 9 16th September 2005 09:52 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 04:09 PM.


Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 14.29%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2019 diyAudio
Wiki