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Another FHXL Build
Another FHXL Build
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Old 17th July 2017, 07:01 PM   #11
chrisb is offline chrisb
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should be gorgeous
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Old 17th July 2017, 07:16 PM   #12
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Quote:
chatoyance
I had to look that up.

These are going to be sharp looking.

As to stuffing, real wool tends to “sag” and is good moth food. Mixing it half & have with poly fluff will help with the sagging. To avoid those issues we ship acoustastuff. More $$$ than polyfluff but it is relatively cheap. With FHXL we ship 2 x 80g and 2 x 60g packages = 280 g ~ 0.617 lb.

You might need to relieve the back of the driver cut out some more — at least a bit into the hardwood.

dave
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Old 17th July 2017, 07:38 PM   #13
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric View Post
Zia - found your old thread about stuffing type and am having trouble connecting the names you've used to actual products. Is something like "Poly-Fil" Premium Polyester Fill a reasonable choice here?

Eric,

I am currently using Acoustastuff (the material Dave has linked) for my builds.

Last edited by zman01; 17th July 2017 at 07:53 PM.
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Old 18th July 2017, 02:30 AM   #14
Eric is offline Eric  United States
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Dave and Zia: Thanks for the link to the Acoustastuff - I have a(nother) package en route for my project.

Dave: I measured the thicknesses of the hardwood baffle and recess. The recess for the driver is 10mm deep and the thickness of the hardwood that remains after routing the recess is 11mm. Then there is the 18mm baltic birch. I spent some time with my rasp file and chewed away at the back of the driver hole some more. I think I'll do a little more, but it started raining tonight, so I stopped for now. Below is a before and after comparison - the chamfer clearly cuts into the back of the hardwood now. The previous chamfer did not reach the hardwood - it was only in the BB ply.

Also, I received my new felt in the mail today. This new stuff is F26N (the "N" is for needled, meaning some of the wool fibers are sown vertically into the thickness of the pad). It's very soft, can be compressed easily between your fingers, and when you poke at it, the deformity in the shape remains when you let go. I've cut off a piece and mailed it to you so you can have a look.
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File Type: jpg Before-After.JPG (139.8 KB, 439 views)
File Type: jpg Felt.JPG (295.4 KB, 429 views)
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Last edited by Eric; 18th July 2017 at 02:43 AM.
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Old 19th July 2017, 01:23 AM   #15
Eric is offline Eric  United States
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Wish I had thought of this last night, but using a 1.5" diameter 50-80 grit sanding drum in my hand-held drill was WAY faster and easier to nicely chamfer the insides of the driver holes, even after gluing the panels together. Spent an hour last night with a rasp file and only got one speaker half way finished - spent 10 mins tonight with the drill to do both speakers! I am more satisfied with this result.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2430.JPG (61.6 KB, 399 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2433.JPG (62.3 KB, 404 views)
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Last edited by Eric; 19th July 2017 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 19th July 2017, 01:26 AM   #16
Eric is offline Eric  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planet10 View Post
I had to look that up.
Me, too Found it on the woodworking websites I was reading through while researching how to finish Bubinga wood...
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Old 19th July 2017, 01:28 AM   #17
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Looking good Eric.
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Old 19th July 2017, 01:42 AM   #18
planet10 is offline planet10  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric View Post
I am more satisfied with this result.
Very nice.

dave
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Old 21st July 2017, 03:07 AM   #19
Eric is offline Eric  United States
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I have a few questions while waiting for veneer and acoustastuff to arrive in the mail. I am hoping a few people with some experience can help guide me here.

1) The veneer I ordered is 10mil paper backed. I am planning to use Titebond II to bond it to the cabinets with a iron. Do I apply glue to both the cabinet AND the veneer, or JUST the cabinet? I've read and seen lots of conflicting accounts on this one.

2) Do I need to use a J-roller immediately after ironing the veneer? Or is this an unnecessary tool/procedure?

3) Aesthetic issue: for a tilted cabinet like this, do you align the bottom edge of the veneer with the bottom of the cabinet, so the grain is vertical, or do you align the side edge of the veneer with the side of the cabinet, so the grain tilts with the cabinet?
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Old 21st July 2017, 05:16 AM   #20
zman01 is offline zman01  Bangladesh
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Eric,

You can refer to the FH3 picture gallery for some ideas on veneer ideas:

Frugel-Horn Mk3 Picture Gallery
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