Sorry, I am using the AN15. I would like to hear the Fane but I am already thrilled with the AN and can't imagine anything better.
I am still in the process of making the boxes, it takes time when you don't have any proper workshop and have to pack/unpack tools and project parts all the time.
Got the sealed boxes mostly done, got to make holes for the drivers, add some ply to the front baffle and add some bracing, considering using some 3mm thick alu U beam I got for free. But will probably settle for solid wood bracing.
The Fane 15" is quite fun to listen to. Been using some auto eq settings from REW that makes it flat to 40hz on the small baffle, the kids have been watching movies on quite loud volume, the drivers take the beating in stride, no problem at all. And they get broken in faster this way too. It really is the cheapest way to be able to play loud and get some bass, just this one driver on a simple U baffle with some padding on the walls to minimize reflections and REW auto EQ should be enough to satisfy most needs. Sounds effortless, easy.
Edit:
Colesups are at post 60:
New 15" full range- FANE
Got the sealed boxes mostly done, got to make holes for the drivers, add some ply to the front baffle and add some bracing, considering using some 3mm thick alu U beam I got for free. But will probably settle for solid wood bracing.
The Fane 15" is quite fun to listen to. Been using some auto eq settings from REW that makes it flat to 40hz on the small baffle, the kids have been watching movies on quite loud volume, the drivers take the beating in stride, no problem at all. And they get broken in faster this way too. It really is the cheapest way to be able to play loud and get some bass, just this one driver on a simple U baffle with some padding on the walls to minimize reflections and REW auto EQ should be enough to satisfy most needs. Sounds effortless, easy.
Edit:
Colesups are at post 60:
New 15" full range- FANE
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There is a significant price difference, and the Fane has much higher xmax.
I agree that the chassis is much better on the AN, but it is not a big issue as long as the Fane is attached to a baffle.
Edit:
Copied from the FAQ on Bluearan:
"We do not normally ship outside of the EU, Norway and Switzerland. If you would like to place an order from elsewhere in the world you will need to arrange your own freight forwarding from the UK."
I agree that the chassis is much better on the AN, but it is not a big issue as long as the Fane is attached to a baffle.
Edit:
Copied from the FAQ on Bluearan:
"We do not normally ship outside of the EU, Norway and Switzerland. If you would like to place an order from elsewhere in the world you will need to arrange your own freight forwarding from the UK."
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I might be able to finish them by next weekend (not the 4th/5th but maybe the 11th/12th), not sure yet, so far I've only posted unsmoothed measurements in-room. Will try to take the boxes outside when they're finished, there's a football field not far from here that might be used in the evening. have to try and get someone to help me move them around when the time is ready. Not sure what I will use for amplifiers when measuring, but there are some 12V batteries and TDA7297 laying about that might still work.
Waiting for the glue to dry. The front baffles are on, need some more braces.
If I'd known the FC152's sounded this good all alone (with dip EQ ofcourse, no boost in my house), I probably would have ditched the 15-400's. But this was always part of my budget 40-10000hz 100db/2.83V project (have a thread going in in the multi way forum).
If I'd known the FC152's sounded this good all alone (with dip EQ ofcourse, no boost in my house), I probably would have ditched the 15-400's. But this was always part of my budget 40-10000hz 100db/2.83V project (have a thread going in in the multi way forum).
The end result may be nearly equal, but I prefer using only dip eq because it is easier to maintain signal integrity of the pre stages. Say for instance that you need more low end to compensate for an OB setup, and if you would prefer to do it with a single system wide curve, when boosting low end for example 9db you may in some scenarios end up with a signal that distorts the input of the power stage. On the other hand if you use shelving to reduce top end instead there is no possibillity to distort, because even if the signal is a sinus at a specific frequency it does not go above 0db signal level. Boosting the signal will seem louder than the negative eq setup only because the volume knob is in a different position, all other things being equal, you have the same volume potential minus the possibillity of running the pre stage in overdrive into the power stage. Some DSP solutions have limited analog out voltage, and some even distort before 0.8V.
I completely agree, it was a silly joke. But I do feel that once you make sure you respect the limitations of the signal processing and make sure you get an undistorted signal out of the processor and into the loudspeaker, it won't make a difference if you cut or boost.
If I boost in my DSP setup, I reduce overall gain accordingly. The more and wider filters I employ, the higher processor load (I use a software DSP on a Raspberry Pi 3 at the moment), so solving a dip with wide range cuts everywhere else is not effective use of resources. I guess you can say that by turning down gain I am effectively making the boost zero gain and everything else a cut again. I still kind of stick to the difference between boost and cut, because pushing a band up a bit is a different workflow than pulling the rest down. Otherwise I agree completely.
If I boost in my DSP setup, I reduce overall gain accordingly. The more and wider filters I employ, the higher processor load (I use a software DSP on a Raspberry Pi 3 at the moment), so solving a dip with wide range cuts everywhere else is not effective use of resources. I guess you can say that by turning down gain I am effectively making the boost zero gain and everything else a cut again. I still kind of stick to the difference between boost and cut, because pushing a band up a bit is a different workflow than pulling the rest down. Otherwise I agree completely.
Yes, if you set max level to 0db it is the same. But many jump into signal processing with no understanding at all. Just up the POWAH! More is better! I still bump into seemingly well functioning music interested people that for some reason think that the highest number of watts listed in the advertising brag sheet gives the best and most sound.
I bought some tung-tree oil to use on the boxes, and got some terminals on the cheap that are of reasonable quality, hoping to get the boxes oiled tomorrow and saturday, takes a while when it's cold, maybe I can have a listen for the FC152's on sunday in their sealed boxes. no measurements until next week.
Hey Cakeman! have you gotten yours yet?
I bought some tung-tree oil to use on the boxes, and got some terminals on the cheap that are of reasonable quality, hoping to get the boxes oiled tomorrow and saturday, takes a while when it's cold, maybe I can have a listen for the FC152's on sunday in their sealed boxes. no measurements until next week.
Hey Cakeman! have you gotten yours yet?
Whatever you do to mutulate/correct the signal, it will never be more than average as fullrange speakers are a big compromise. They are best with mids, will not produce much bass and highs will all sound a like (not much detail) and will be very directional.
I Think that in general the smaller fullrange speakers are, the more usefull they are. I.e. in line speakers.
I Think that in general the smaller fullrange speakers are, the more usefull they are. I.e. in line speakers.
That is correct, at least in theory.
But the FC152 has a surprisingly good treble, even off axis. It is nearly comparable to my Seas FU10RB in sound quality, and in my personal opinion it's also better than the MA 10.2 because of dynamics and low level detail. I own and use all of these every single day, Seas FU10RB is in my living room, MA10.2 is in the kids room, Fane FC152 is in my sound and movie den. The bonus is that since it has over 3mm xmax and is designed for PA use, you can make it play bass at the same time. I am currently using it EQ'ed flat from 40-16000hz, but it sounds very sweet and natural with no EQ, just a bit much treble and not enough bass on my too narrow temporary baffles.
Fane really has something going with the triple cone design.
But the FC152 has a surprisingly good treble, even off axis. It is nearly comparable to my Seas FU10RB in sound quality, and in my personal opinion it's also better than the MA 10.2 because of dynamics and low level detail. I own and use all of these every single day, Seas FU10RB is in my living room, MA10.2 is in the kids room, Fane FC152 is in my sound and movie den. The bonus is that since it has over 3mm xmax and is designed for PA use, you can make it play bass at the same time. I am currently using it EQ'ed flat from 40-16000hz, but it sounds very sweet and natural with no EQ, just a bit much treble and not enough bass on my too narrow temporary baffles.
Fane really has something going with the triple cone design.
My Fane 12-250TC's are similar. Good mid's and highs but bass is lacking a bit.
Yeah I got mine last week. Been running them free air on top of pair of speakers, like 1 meter off the floor. Funny enough they sound really good just as is like that, no EQ, no boxes nor baffles. Hopefully I can get some decent size baffles done soon. I've been thinking about 60cmx120cm (2ftx4ft) OB setup. Might take a couple of weeks, but I am in no hurry. Let them flex a bit running free air or what not.
If someone is thinking about buying a pair, I would say go for it! I paid 230 euros for the pair, damn well worth the money. They can get really loud even in free air setup. They have more or less all the good parts of full range driver sound in them, but they are HUGE and they sound like big speakers should in my opinion. Big speakers in my mind should sound first and foremost effortless and that's what these do.